Archive through August 28, 2005

[tturner]

Bryan- it is actually going on my crocidile, haha, so the transmission will be way back out of the way.


To weld or not to weld?? what do y'all think should this thing be bolted or welded where the seem is? I think both because that is where I have to put an adapter plate for the lift cylinder any ways.
Here is how it is going together speciman A* will be put together with a 149 (without altering the 149 in any way frame wise.)

A* is the project that I bought a while back that has a faster ground speed than the factory unit

 

[jstorma]

Hey Digger!

Thanks, the perfect diagrams.

 

[jrwalters]

where do i go to get
<font color="ff0000">Jeff, You're not registered to post "Wanted" type messages here either. Please familiarize yourself with the guidelines of posting to this forum. - - Moderators</font>
not e - bay! i am not registered thier.

 

[kduffy]

Jeff,

If you click on the sponsers listed above I am sure that they can help out with what you need. Travis has a set put together that has just about everything you said you need.

 

[jacuff]

I'm having a problem with my (well, WAS my) 1650. I sold it to my buddy, but we've been fixing it up before he takes it home. We pulled the motor and I welded in the cross brace on the motor mount rails, replaced the mounting rubbers, replaced the front driveshaft coupler, replaced the shot steering column, as well as fixing a couple of other issues. One of those issues was that the left side of the rear end was barely attached to the tractor. The two bolts going thru the frame into the axle housing were loose, and the bolt going thru the bracket hanging down from the frame and into the front of the axle housing was broken off. I replaced all these bolts with new and tightened everything up good. Fast forward to this evening: I go to start the tractor for the first time after putting it all back together, so I lock the parking brake, start the tractor, and within a couple of seconds the tractor tries to go backward. I tried to move the hydro lever forward, but it wouldn't move, I'm guessing because the brake was locked. I quickly shut the key off, but I noticed sort of a ratcheting sound which seemed to be coming from the pump. I'm guessing that somehow when I bolted the rearend back in place that it moved something out of alignment. (It didn't do this before.) Does this sound right? I can't understand how it could have got that far off tho. I'm no Cub expert, but on any other hydro tractor I'd assume that I need to adjust the hydro control linkage for neutral. Looking at the linkage on the side of the pump, it appears to already be in the neutral position, but it obviously isn't. Should I adjust the threaded rod going from under the dash to the pump linkage? Or could there be a problem somewhere else?
Thanks for any help!

 

[mhomrighausen]

Myron B. If what you say is correct about MTD using their suppliers part number then if I recall correctly Todd Markle said awhile back that he couldn't get the implement relief spring through his Cub dealer. As long as he or you can supply me with the MTD (Sauer Danfoss) number I should be able to check and see if that spring is still available. To my knowledge they still used that 15U on the 50 series Cub Cadets. Todd said that that the tractor he was trying to get the part for was ten years old. Shoot me the MTD (Sauer) part number for the NLA implement relief spring and I'll find out if it is still a common part. I didn't know MTD did that. If it is then I will see if I can find who one of the company customers are that sell that part to the general public. Thank you.

 

[dfrisk]

MARLIN - Not sure who they get it from but the green competition sells a spring for their little tractors built in Horicon that Wyatt put in His 1650. Wyatt has a "Unique Source" for parts so I'm not sure it came from a dealer.
JEFF WALTERS - Travis sometimes sells complete rebuilt drop-in engines for about the price of the parts. You might check the classified forum.

 

[stanner]

John..

Sounds like your hydro linkage needs adjusting... If you shut it off while technically calling for movement by the misadjusted linkage, it'll make your pump make that sound... The FAQ list has the procedure for adjusting the linkage...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tyler, how about "Crocodile". )

 

[dbellamy]

good morning guys,
working on my basket case 147 & am in the tear down stage. My hydro lever will not move it seems jamed, like everything else rust is my enemy here so lots of blaster has been used(weeks).I have the tractor standing on its tail in order to inspect all parts that should be movable. I'm not sure if its acceptable to use a BFH on the speed control cam to free up the friction collar if this is where its stuck? Man it sure is tight in there compared to my 109 + this is my first real look at the hydro buis.I do have my manual, thanks for any adv.

 

[kmcconaughey]

David S., here is the procedure to jump start an S/G equipped Cub directly to the S/G. Do this very carefully and at your own risk.

1) Take a battery pack and attach the negative clamp to one of the S/G mounting tab bolts.

2) Touch positive clamp to the "A" post on the generator.

This will bypass all the electrical wiring. If the S/G turns over, it is not the problem. Then you can start looking for a bad ground, wire, ignition switch, etc. Good luck!

 

[wheinsohn]

Marlin,
If you can not find an implement relief spring at any cub or IH dealer, JD still sells them. Just get one for a late 140 model. As Denny said, Wyatt put one in his 169 and I had to put one in my 1650 when I bought it. I went from 450# with lot of shims to about 725# without any shims by putting in a new spring.

 

[pdorow]

<center><table border=1><tr><td>

JD 140 Hydro parts list1.htm (23.3 k)</td></tr></table></center>

 

[pdorow]

Marlin;

I also needed a new spring for my 1250, picked a shim kit & spring from my local green people. Also used a hydraulic pressure gauge from Northern Tool to set it up correctly.

Look below for the info I sent.

 

[dgallagher]

I recently bought a 149 with a 44" deck(the one with 4 gauge wheels). After some cleanup, I leveled the deck and started mowing. In my opinion, this is the best CC deck I have used. I have a 129 with a 42 and a 125(14HP) with a 48 and they don't nearly spread the grass as well or stay as clean underneath. Anyone else had this experience?

 

[scrawford]

I need some help with my 1450. It has a 44A deck. The deck speed just is not fast enough, and it does not do a good job of mowing. I saw in another web site someone who had the same problem, but no one gave him a good answer. Bearings and spindles are in good shape, belts are not slipping. ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS}

 

[mgonitzke]

Steven C.-

You need the smaller drive pulley for the deck, that will speed it up.

 

[sblunier]

Kraig,

For the sake of the S/G, reverse that procedure....clamp the (+) to the terminal, then touch the (-) to the S/G mount. With this method, the arc occurs on the bracket, not on the delicate threads of the A post, where it can make hooking up or removing wires difficult later.

 

[rchristensen]

Steven C.
If you haven't checked the RPM's of your engine yet I would do that first and make sure it is running up to speed.

Here is a number Steve B. posted for the smaller pulley some time ago.

Small drive pulley (44" and 50" decks) is as follows

IH 126393-C1 44A decks with serial number 81742 and above. (Small pulley)

all other decks (44, 50, 50A) list IH 59703-C3(some list C-2 as well) as correct. Including a note about 44" decks below serial # 81741. (large pulley)

NOTE: These numbers are only good for YELLOW tractors. The 5/8" belt on the 82 series requires a different pulley.

 

[mbounds]

Marlin H: My late model MTD issued TC-157 for the 1250 shows the Spring, Implement Relief Valve, part number is: SU-3102301.
Myron B