Archive through August 26, 2015

[digger]

I guess I forgot to shut the lights off when I left last night, so I'll handle that around noon or so today, since nothing is happening to keep it on!

 

[kide]

All questions have been answered.....

 

[digger]

They had a 50% off sale on light bulbs today at Fleet Farm!

That and Myron B. brightened my day (pun intended) a whole lot, and I have to THANK him for that!

 

[mgwin]

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[jbaker]

 

[eford]

This isn't so much a question as to helping others with any electrical problems they happen to come across. I hear time and time again from the great Cub gurus that checking the basic wiring connections between switches, v/r's, gen, etc. is a great place to start and find an easy solution, usually. In my (in)finite wisdom I had a starting problem on one of my 1450's. turn key to start, nothing. key on, jump solenoid, fires up. OK, solenoid went bad, it's the original. Replace with new, same problem. Pop plug off switch, jump and it turns over, OK, bad switch, swap out. Same problem, play with connector and 2 wires break off. I guess the good thing is I now have a new switch and solenoid for the future. And just the other day I suggested to someone their dead battery might be an easy issue. left the dome light on, saw it as soon as the jumper cables were connected, the door was closed and it was night.
So I humbly suggest to check, and maybe recheck the wires/connections before you start buying and replacing parts. At least if I had switched with known good parts, or tested the old I would not have been out the wasted time to the store. I do believe in 'extra' parts, got a shed full of them!

Charlie, thanks for turning the lights back on! My follies need to be known

 

[aschumacher]

Oh wow is it bright in here now. Charlie are those new bulbs the LED type? Sure do look nice. Did you get yourself a LED flashlight while you were there?

 

[elamott]

Earl:
I have purchased unnecessary parts as you until I finally learned to test first if you can. A great comment so we all remember.
Earl LaMott

 

[mgwin]

A multimeter (voltmeter) is a wonderful tool!

 

[hydroharry]

Earl F - hey I think you still saved a ton of money. If you had gone to a shop they likely would have charged for a new switch, solenoid and wiring harness plus labor

 

[jbaker]

Yesterday I cleaned out the cub shop and was kinda missing the cubs I got rid of this summer first time in a while that I only have 3 cubs and a beater.

But then I got a call telling me my big red IH400 was ready, more in the proper posting page IH cubs larger reletives.

 

[aschumacher]

Marty and others, Harbor Freight has free meters with a coupon. They work well enough to take care of all Cubs problems. If the meter gives you problems, just step on it and get another one!

 

[balder]

Who doesn't love harbor freight. I have one of those meters it works fine.

 

[jclazar]

Hello guys!

Well, today I happened upon a really nice, and straight IH 42" push blade! I plan to paint the front of it IH White and install it to my 1450!

The problems are, that I don't have a sub frame for the blade to use on my 1450. Then, I had been wondering since the Quiet Line has hydraulic lift as standard equipment, How am I going to float this blade?

Try not to laugh too hard, but I thought of using a chain in place of the lift rod. Of course, this will be my first time using this wide frame hydro drive garden tractor for snow removal. Any thoughts about that,....

Any how, my 1450 is now completely gone through. I have a new back up light installed, the head lamps as well as the tail lights work as should, IH wheel weights, 1" front wheel spindles, and good rubber on all fours!

The other set back is that I'm looking for cleated two link tire chains to transfer power to the ground.

Now is the time to start thinking snow removal, and I'm going to have this 1450 ready!

 

[thawkins]

Thanks Eford . Just picked up a 1200 and it's not charging the battery. It runs till the battery is discharged.
So i'm about to start the run down. Checking all connections is where I will definetly start !

 

[jpatchett]

John L,

The tractor has float in the lift mechanism, see pg. 19 of operators manual.

I picked up a 54" blade for my 149 a few years ago. The sub frame also has float capability, the lift bracket (item #1) is slotted.

Items 12-16 do not apply to your tractor.


Make or find a lift rod, having down force is sometime handy. Like when trying to scrap 2" thick ice off the driveway or pushing/moving dirt.

Jim

 

[jpatchett]

This is on CL in my area, asking way too much $$.

If the guy throws in a bench cushion I might have to hop on this one.

I should ask if it will support a recliner.

Jim

 

[mgwin]

Jim P.,

Someone has disgraced that poor cub cadet.

Allen S.,

I was just making a statement that could have saved some members on this forum a lot of time and money.

A multimeter can solve a lot of issues without having to buy parts and swap them out in order to find the problem.

As an electrical technician, I rely on a multimeter almost every day. A Harbor freight meter may do OK, but you get what you pay for.

In my line of work, I want a highly reliable meter. My safety and well being depends on it.

Personally, if I am going to use something, I figure I might as well buy the best I can afford. That way I won't have to worry about it not being reliable or constantly breaking or wearing out.

I have three multimeters: a Fluke meter, a Greenlee, and a Amprobe meter in order to read amps and temperature.

That is why I like old cub cadets so well, they were built to last!

The lights on my 128 were not working, so I got my Fluke meter and started tracing down the problem. In just a few minutes I found the problem was in the light switch. One of the tabs on the back of the switch was rusted badly, so
I removed the tab and soldered another one on. Not only did I find the problem quickly, I didn't have to buy any parts and play swap out in order to find and fix the problem.

 

[mgwin]

John L.,

A lift rod will work much better.

Ted Hawkins,

Welcome to the forum!
The voltage/regulator may not be working correctly. There is an easy check you can do to check the V/R listed in "Charlie's frequently asked questions" section. (question #47)