Mike, that would be cool, I've got an old wisconson that was built from military spec, it looks simiilar to a teledyn. 84 ci. I measured several times with a welder and torch it would work, I just would want it to look right, thats the tough part.
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Archive through August 26, 2009
- Thread starter jbliler
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jmacdonald
Well-known member
Novice question alert!
Twice in the last week I found after using my model 70 I discovered a small puddle of gas on the garage floor. It was slowly leaking from the mouth of the carb. It starts and runs ok and when I stop engine the leak stops. It doesn't leak each time after use. I tried searching, but didn't see any carberator slow leaks.
I am guessing that the valve controlled by the float is leaking. If I had a hole in the float I think it it would leak every time it was shut off?
If the valve is dirty or sticky is there something I can run throught the gas to clean it out before "the novice opens up his carb"?
Twice in the last week I found after using my model 70 I discovered a small puddle of gas on the garage floor. It was slowly leaking from the mouth of the carb. It starts and runs ok and when I stop engine the leak stops. It doesn't leak each time after use. I tried searching, but didn't see any carberator slow leaks.
I am guessing that the valve controlled by the float is leaking. If I had a hole in the float I think it it would leak every time it was shut off?
If the valve is dirty or sticky is there something I can run throught the gas to clean it out before "the novice opens up his carb"?
Justin Hokinson (Jhokinson) ( put the front pivoting parts on the frame) i do and then jack the front and slide the deck under. The belt is always first then pins and the back pins last. Works for me ..... Later Don T
James M. theres not as much to those carbs as you might think. I'll bet the technical info for them is avalible from someone on here or online somewhere and if not I have a manual in the shop for them. I'd drop the bowl on the carb and check the float and needle. Lots of times you can get away with just being careful with the gasket and not have to replace it. Or you could just shut the valve on the tank off when your not using it.
I pulled the motor from the 129 tonight and popped the pan off, and popped the piston out of the bore and checked it. There was some wear on the thrust faces of the piston, but the rings were intact, and the rings moved freely in the grooves. I checked the breaker points, and they seemed kinda "sticky", and weren't completely closed, though the pushrod seems to move freely back and forth.
That's as far as I got tonight, I'll check the valves tomorrow. That engine got awfully hot, the muffler is a nice shade of blue, so I wouldn't be at all surprised if I have a burned exhaust valve.
Even if I didn't really need to pull the engine, this will give me a good head start on doing my hydraulic lift conversion. Time to drag the 1650 from its resting place and start pulling hardware off.
That's as far as I got tonight, I'll check the valves tomorrow. That engine got awfully hot, the muffler is a nice shade of blue, so I wouldn't be at all surprised if I have a burned exhaust valve.
Even if I didn't really need to pull the engine, this will give me a good head start on doing my hydraulic lift conversion. Time to drag the 1650 from its resting place and start pulling hardware off.
James Mac,
Better get practiced at carb work my friend. You will get help in here if you tackle the project. Even on my good Cub's I pull the carb at least once a year; due to a leak or debris in the float bowl. It just takes a small bit of crap to let that valve leak. I prefer to work on the carb off the motor so I can thoroughly clean all the ports with compressed air. I always close the valve at the tank, even if I park the tractor for 15 minutes. It's an old habit that stuck with me from my dirt bike days, usually if i forget I'm rewarded with a gas puddle.
On a fuel related side note. I just finished the steering rebuild on my 108. I tried to start it for a test drive....no fire. A quick inspection revealed barely any fuel in the filter.(I always use clear filters)
I pulled the tank...and valve. The screen looked great....but zero flow.
I removed the screen and dug around in the valve...lot's of very fine sediment had settled in there and turned into a solid lump over the last couple of months. A little cleaning and we're off and running again.
(The steering and new Vredamoneywent tires are great by the way)
Better get practiced at carb work my friend. You will get help in here if you tackle the project. Even on my good Cub's I pull the carb at least once a year; due to a leak or debris in the float bowl. It just takes a small bit of crap to let that valve leak. I prefer to work on the carb off the motor so I can thoroughly clean all the ports with compressed air. I always close the valve at the tank, even if I park the tractor for 15 minutes. It's an old habit that stuck with me from my dirt bike days, usually if i forget I'm rewarded with a gas puddle.
On a fuel related side note. I just finished the steering rebuild on my 108. I tried to start it for a test drive....no fire. A quick inspection revealed barely any fuel in the filter.(I always use clear filters)
I pulled the tank...and valve. The screen looked great....but zero flow.
I removed the screen and dug around in the valve...lot's of very fine sediment had settled in there and turned into a solid lump over the last couple of months. A little cleaning and we're off and running again.
(The steering and new Vredamoneywent tires are great by the way)
Dave... I'll have to double check that pin. At work now wont be home till 7pm. But like I said the throw out arm does go back and forth when I watched it so I am guessing the pin isnt broke. I just not sure how much travel it suppose to take before the clutch disengages. I might try re downloaded the manual here at work its got to be in there somewhere.
Tristan Stewart,
Then I thought no way it should be adjustment since it went from working fine one day to no clutch the next, its got to be more of a failure of some sort.
Check your engine mounting bolts. Make sure they are still there not broken ect.
Hope this helps.
Then I thought no way it should be adjustment since it went from working fine one day to no clutch the next, its got to be more of a failure of some sort.
Check your engine mounting bolts. Make sure they are still there not broken ect.
Hope this helps.
jmacdonald
Well-known member
Ok. I guess I'll start by dropping the bowl and taking a look. I've had this mod 70 for approx. 30 years and have never taken the carb apart. (never had a need to)
Richard... I would assume what you mention about the engine bolts would be for the opposite problem I have. My tractor will still drive around in gear, the clutch will not disengage the drivetrain, meaning I can start it in gear and take off but cannot stop. If its in nuetral trying to shift it into gear results in the gears grinding unless you jab it in there really darn quick. I might not have been describing it properly, sorry.
Tristan, I believe what Richard is suggesting is that if the engine mounting bolts are loose the engine could turn slightly and cause binding in the drive-line which would cause the clutch to appear that it is not disengaging. If the engine were loose it could bind in the drive-shaft bushing, see below:
lchockensmith
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2008
- Messages
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- displayname
- Lucas Craig Hockensmith
hey guys got the deck back on the "O" but things seem awful tight like the drive belt.i found two different part # in the 38" parts breakdown the # is 464-362-R1.. and in charlie's FAQ the # is 954-0226.Does anybody have an idea which is correct? thanks in advance
