Archive through August 22, 2013

[dtanner]

James Krupar

I would clean the rock shaft up real good . Sand it down and test it on a piece of wood drilled . If it passes the wood test then put it (rock Shaft)in the freezer.

I think start it from the lift side (right foot).

I used my 1512 D today hauling some split wood to the basement . My four cord pile is getting smaller.

Frank , Harry , play nice ! Harry I need to see a picture on this page of the 169 when it saw fresh air last. Frank just can`t resist showing off his 169.

On a Denny side note; there is a 125 with hyd pump for sale up here with a blade . He is asking to much even though the cub is in not bad shape in the picture. He says it ain`t run in 15 years

 

[fcurrier]

Don; Harry and I play nice. Which 169 are you referring to?

This isn't funny - I don't remember where Andy is right now! Must be in the Quonset out back.

 

[hydroharry]

Don T - hey just like Frank said, we do play nice. As for breathing fresh air, ya that day is coming soon, maybe tomorrow and I hope my camera is working.

Jeremiah - sorry my spell checker didn't work in the last post, ground = found. Once you do the calculations again would you mind reposting another pic with them all filled in. We don't want someone copying your post where they are still questionable. And one other thing. I still think it's closer to an actual 10" overall rather than the 9 and 13/16" you're coming up with. The measurements of the 2 main flat sections have to be pretty accurate, and the rise measurement is accurate, and the angles are now known. Because of the bend in the metal it's hard to claim those measurement are perfect so that's where you'll need to make the adjustments. Keep up the good work. You're almost there.

 

[jboelens]

Had a great day plowing, and visiting with two Forum members that drove a bit to get there. David Schwandt drove over two hours from Iowa to play in the dirt. Jeff Baker came down from Ridott IL and got to chat with him as well.
Here's David plowing on his 1450. He also had his 70 there as well.

 

[bwittman]

I am going to change the subject a little bit if that is approveable. The 1250 Nightmare was assigned to parade duty today. Colossal failure. I loaded the tractor on to the trailer for the 25 mile trip to the parade site. I usually run the engine out of gas when I transport. I did so today and inadvertently left the key in the on position, and I suppose the key was on for about an hour during trip. The gas valve was off at the tank.

When I got to the parade line-up site, I found my error in leaving the ignition switch on. I turned on the gasoline valve at the tank, pulled the choke and began to crank the engine. No fire. I tried several times to start the engine and thought I had a flooded condition. I pulled the spark plug, and discovered no spark. I tried a new plug that I had with me. Still, no spark.

What I thought was odd, is that when I pulled the spark plug, it was not wet with fuel. In a spark test, there was no spark. Would it not stand to reason that the spark plug should be wet in this situation?

I unloaded the tractor, pushed it to the side and used the car to pull the company float in the parade. (It wasn't as cute as when it is pulled by the Nightmare, but the air conditioning was nice.) Parade temperature was 94 degrees Fahrenheit, with a high humidity. In a way, this could have been a blessing in disguise, because with that high air temperature and the low speed of a long parade (45 minutes) a low engine speed may have caused an overheating condition on the K-301.

Could I have cooked a coil, or a condenser? Could it be both, or something else? The Nightmare still doesn't run and it started and ran like a watch before I loaded it.

Thanking you in advance, does anyone have a clue? I don't.

 

[rwilke]

Brian W., I'd guess you welded the points together..... I'd start by checking them out first.

Frank C., Thanks for the help!

Ryan W

 

[dtanner]

John Boelens

What fun . I was out rolling some sod this spring. it was a blast . I did enjoy the seat time. My plow never seems to get shinny as some I see here. I wounder just how much use it takes to keep them looking shinny?

 

[prtombaugh]

Don: To get that shiny look, you need to give the rusty (or still painted) moldboards a fighting chance. I use an angle grinder with the flat flapper-type discs. I start with 60 grit and move up to 80 and finish with 120. I then go over them with a ball made out of that scouring pad material chucked into a drill. It takes lots of elbow grease, but next comes the fun part. Find some light, sandy, dry soil and plow. In short time you will have a land polish that will have your plow working good and looking good! I use the spray cans of plow paint (local Farm and Fleet) to protect the shine between uses. Or you can just grease them up. I’m sure more good advice will come from others. Have fun!
You reminded me to get to work on some moldboards before next month’s “big” tractor plow day.

 

[jchamberlin]

Harry: Using your new dimensions, the piece is getting shorter, not longer. I sketched up the most important flat dimensions. I think you communicated information earlier that would detail the "notch" on the right side (left side if you're sitting in the tractor). The only things missing are (1) an allowance for gain (I believe it would be 1 metal thickness, so the flat should start out 3/32" shorter), (2) the location of the mounting holes, (3) the length and size of the slot, and (4) the radius and depth of the spark plug scallop. Most of this could be doped out holding the bent piece up to the engine. All told, I think we have enough to proceed with the manufacture of a facsimile, if not a reproduction. (Please note that the sketch is NOT to scale, but merely representative.)

 

[rberg]

I have a Kohler 301 with balance gears very loose on the shaft can they be tighten or just removed