Archive through August 19, 2013

[dschwandt]

Time to order new checks! Seeing as how I am not in the trucking industry anymore, was thinking of new checks with Cub Cadet art work/logo/theme on them. The bank has none available that would fit that theme and short of putting/cobbling something together on my own, anyone have an idea where I can acess something along these lines??

Thanks!
Dave S.

 

[aschumacher]

My Cub might look good on some of these

 

[kkittock]

Nice score on the load of cubs Terry!!! If that 71 is ever on the market send it this way

 

[jchamberlin]

Harry: If 10" is an eye-ball overall dimension, but your angles are accurate, figuring the "run" under them is as easy as SOH-CAH-TOA [Sine(Theta) = Opposite/Hypotenuse -- Cosine(Theta) = Adjacent/Hypotenuse -- Tangent(Theta) = Opposite/Adjacent]. I love Trigonometry.

Long story short, I figure that the "base" of the triangle created by the first 35 degree bend with a "hypotenuse" of 1.75" is a little over 1-1/2" (1.54676"). I come up with the "base" under your 45 degree angle at the front of the heat baffle of a little over 9/16" (0.59098").

But I'm coming up with different heights for each triangle. Checking the first angle/run, I get a height of a little over 13/16" (0.81855"), but the 45 deg down-turn at the muffler brings up 15/16" (0.95726"). Does this piece lay flat, or does the front come down a bit lower than the portion over the cylinder head, can you tell? Otherwise my calculations are suspect.

Speaking of the cylinder head, can you get a measurement of the flat area over the head? Again, I can't reference bolt holes on my K321 versus your K341. The distance I've given as 3-1/4" is the only unknown. The rest I can figure out from what you've given me, or if need be, a few more measurements to verify things.

Note: I worked the formulas out from memory, and we all know how reliable that can be! I'll check my textbook tomorrow to see that I figured everything correctly --but it did check.

 

[hydroharry]

Jeremiah - I'll have to check the measurement tomorrow for the flat section over the head. With regard to your question about whether the piece lays flat or does the front come down a bit lower - I'll have to look at that as well. I had been thinking the front was actually a little shorter so it didn't quite touch on a flat surface, but that could just be me since I measured the front and the front bend doesn't touch anything, just goes into space. I wish I had one of those "what'cha-macall-its" to measure the actual angles. I'm a bit fearful I could be off slightly. I doubt it will make a whole lot of difference when in use since nothing touches the angled sections, but you know how it is, deduct another point here and there. I had another thought to check with my son on tomorrow. And by the way, you're up late - or is it early, again.

Hey, I never took trigonometry, and I need to cut a tree down. How do I figure out the height of the tree using the shadow on the ground? I don't want it to fall on my house - and don't tell me to cut the tree in sections starting with the top. And even if I do I'd like to know how far I'm gonna fall to the ground.

 

[kide]

Harry:
(OT warning) Use a machinist's square; holding the blade parallel to the ground, sight along the 45 degree side flat, backing up until you are looking at the top of the tree along the surface of the 45 degree flat. Stop, mark the distance from the tree and pace off the distance to the tree, it should be the same as the height (subtract the height from the earth to your eyeball)..... (Right angle triangle with the opposing angles 45 degrees ) I'll betcha you already knew that, though. I had this very geometry problem last fall - I finally, after years of stalling , had a 125 foot cottonwood that was 6 feet from my house taken down. $2500.00 math problem.. (They had to bring in a 100 foot boom truck to get the pieces down without holing the roof of the house..)

Headed for the auto parts for another carb soak bucket - the last one grew legs... 129's piddled on the floor for the last time - gas is too expensive these days, plus I always am aware of that SG sparking a little with all those gas fumes. Dang thing only does it about once in 5 times I park it, but always leaves a puddle when it does. I've thought that possibly it was PO'd because I fixed the hydro gasket leak and still wants to leave it's mark? Not sure how far Kohler K motors were built from Menominee Falls, Wisconsin, but I'd swear there's a relationship to old Harleys...

 

[fcurrier]

Looking for info on this:

Found this:

Search Function can be entertaining!

 

[digger]

Frank C.
BUY IT!
I have both versions of that tire do-hickie (Large and small) and wouldn't trade either one for anything.
The only thing with the small one. You need to replace the all thread with a stronger one. The original is really soft.
Also, take the plastic lid retainer off a quart can of Cub Cadet paint and glue it to the center tube. The rubber that comes with it won't last long.

 

[etopel]

It's a harbor freight mini tire changer
http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/34000-34999/34552.pdf

 

[wshytle]

Frank-

Are you asking what it is???

If so, it's a Chinese special small tire changer from HF. I have one bolted to my welding table and it works ok.

 

[dfrisk]

GERRY - Mapquest says it's 56.3 miles from The Falls to Kohler. But I didn't think H-D built engines in The Falls. I thought their engine plant was more downtown Milw.

As an aside, I was slightly but politely scoulded on another forum last week about IH's free gas cap program started back in the mid-1980's for ALL gasoline powered tractors. Seems IH put a special project team together to prepare those great old gas-powered IH tractors for burning today's more volatile gasolines. They basically revamped the quarter-turn triple baffle gas caps to incorporate a safety catch like a radiator cap to relieve pressure from the vaporizing gasoline when removing the gas cap. Problem was they didn't fit real well. They also enlarged the diameter of the vent holes. But there's probably something to the project, any time I leave much gas in a tank of any of my CC's or old Farmall's it ends up evaporating out of the tank. No leaks in anything, it all just evaporates out the tank vent.

 

[hydroharry]

Gerry - no, I didn't know that. Good to know if I can remember it. Now, if I can just find a machinist square. Why doesn't a carpenter square work?

 

[pbell]

Harry,
Because it doesn't have a 45* angle to site along.....

 

[kide]

Harry:
What Paul said ....... Are you being <font color="ff0000">obtuse?</font> or are you <font color="ff0000">opposed</font> to being <font color="ff0000">included</font> in a discussion about geometry??

 

[kide]

Dennis:
Nope ....
W156 N9000 Pilgrim Road
Menomonee Falls, WI 53051
You can even take a tour ...

That cap replacement program was just for full size, not Cubs - right? Good to see that the spirit of IHC still lives in Navistar.. The 129's dribbles are from the float - probably crap in the gas. I do have more problems now hoisting a full 6 gallon can to fill it, and this is probably when I'd have a burndown, because I usually manage to slop on both the muffler and SG.. Neighbor gave me a working fuel pump out of a Chevy gas tank the other day, I'm looking at how to incorporate that into a filler system for refilling small engines.....

BTW anyone else developed a hate for these NEW gas cans with the spring loaded filler nozzle??

 

[dfrisk]

GERRY - Yep, free $25 retail gas cap from Navistar just by filling out a form with model number/letter and serial number of your large tractor, power unit, combine, etc. Only gasoline engines need apply, diesel & LP not included. And just the big main fuel tank too. The small gasoline starting tank on start-on-gas/run-on-diesel Farmall's & International's was a much smaller cap. Originally dealers were supposed to take and destroy the old caps, but that never happened.

Kinda hurts that IH/Navistar took my pension to fund the free gas cap deal.

I considered buying one of the large Gas Caddy tanks several years ago, the one's that hold 20-30 gal and have a manual pump, hose, & nozzle. But this year I've bought 5 to 5-1/2 gal of gas before each time I mow. Gives me an excuse to buy beverages for while I'm working.

I had a couple plastic "Caps" break on my plastic gas cans and had to buy replacement "safety" nozzles. The nozzle itself was fine, just the cap that tightens it down to the neck of the can cracked and would leak. I really don't mind the new safety nozzles/spouts. I have a "special Funnel" I use to fuel all my tractors, about 6" dia on top, 9 inches tall.

Hardest tractors to gas up are the Farmall's because I have to stand on the loader frames, but at least I can rest the gas can on the frames while it empties.

 

[nbextermueller]

Gerry,

I HATE the new safety nozzles. I refuse to use the one I have. Funny I was thinking of going to Amazon or <font color="ff0000">&#149;</font><font color="ff0000">&#149;</font><font color="ff0000">&#149;</font><font color="ff0000">&#149;</font> to find the good type of gas can. (funny, I can type XXXX, but EB*y gets edited with red dots.)

If not, I may have to go to the full blown metal safety can. At least with that you can start and stop the gas while tipped...

 

[digger]

Nothing funny about it!
Type it again and see WTH happens!!!!!!!!!!

 

[dfrisk]

This brand of gas can seems to be REAL popular on other websites. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6UHHuVGtFGI

 

[hydroharry]

Gerry - I got me one of those No Spill Jill gas cans and a machinist square. Used the square to check the edges of the can. Ended up with a leak in the can from the 45degree angle sliding across it. Now it works just like the others I had before. Don't spill but marks it's spot. I'm gonna use it to burn down the tree. Then I don't have to measure it and don't have to worry about falling either