proessler
Well-known member
Charlie, when I delivered that F1026 Gold Demo,during that time period in history I also setup & delivered many IH CC...models 86,108,109,128,129 & 149...Cadet 60, 85? Mea Culpa, Mea Culpa!!!
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Archive through August 17, 2011
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Patrick, You have a little time left on the front clutch button but not much. The blower housing screen is hard to see but it doesnt look completely broke. Which is strange cause the ones I've seen break, the screws that held it were still tight and the whole center outside the screws just broke out. You have to pull the engine to fix that screen but thats not that big a deal. The hard decision is if you fix the front clutch still in the tractor or not. Space can be tight but the advantage is the engine is held firm.
Paul, Charlie, We can speak french on here?
Paul, Charlie, We can speak french on here?
Patrick-
That thrust button is toast so the pto has to come off. It's a good time to resurface the pressure plates, clean, replace clutch disc (if needed), etc. The flywheel screen has just broken loose form the aluminum coupler. The four little bolts holding it are probably still there. You can turn the screen and refit it but I would just get another. I'd just put the engine on the bench but that's me. It makes things easier for my back. Those linkages underneath will stretch and "brad" out of shape from supporting that working deck all those years. They can be a little pricey too but you're good for another generation.
Good luck!
That thrust button is toast so the pto has to come off. It's a good time to resurface the pressure plates, clean, replace clutch disc (if needed), etc. The flywheel screen has just broken loose form the aluminum coupler. The four little bolts holding it are probably still there. You can turn the screen and refit it but I would just get another. I'd just put the engine on the bench but that's me. It makes things easier for my back. Those linkages underneath will stretch and "brad" out of shape from supporting that working deck all those years. They can be a little pricey too but you're good for another generation.
Good luck!
PAUL - My Hotline equipment guide shows a 1026 Hydro, (they were all hydro's, no GD's) had the D407 rated @ 112.4 PTO HP. The big hydro's with cabs made the BEST snow blower tractors ever made. With a frt mounted 3pt hitch they were awesome. Think someone posted a pic of an IH with FWA, cab & frt mounted snow blower here couple years ago. Cub Cadet on Steroids!
GLEN - IH painted some tractors construction orange, they still had the part numbers for that color paint in their computer MRP system in 1980. That wsa the orange used on the Carrot tractors.
SOUNDS like your new engine in the 149/1466 is breaking in nicely. I modified my stock breather cover on my K321 a couple years ago so I could install an elbow & 1/4" fuel line to direct blowby away from the engine like Dave Kirk's covers. It really helps keep the engine cleaner, but not totally clean. I will say with the throttle linkage, governor, carb, breather cover, elbow & tubing, plus the fuel pump & SS braided gas lines things are pretty crowded on that side of the engine!
GLEN - IH painted some tractors construction orange, they still had the part numbers for that color paint in their computer MRP system in 1980. That wsa the orange used on the Carrot tractors.
SOUNDS like your new engine in the 149/1466 is breaking in nicely. I modified my stock breather cover on my K321 a couple years ago so I could install an elbow & 1/4" fuel line to direct blowby away from the engine like Dave Kirk's covers. It really helps keep the engine cleaner, but not totally clean. I will say with the throttle linkage, governor, carb, breather cover, elbow & tubing, plus the fuel pump & SS braided gas lines things are pretty crowded on that side of the engine!
pfitzwater
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That’s what I thought about the screen, so it’s not that hard to replace? The screws are still in the coupler but chewed up pretty good from spinning. The pto has a new disk and plates have been resurfaced the button was new
, I realized I didn’t adjust the pto correctly after reading the actual manual, the picture was more clear there, but the tool sat between each side tight like the manual said also. I was thinking about that engagement leaver button this morning as well. I want to pull the motor out and rebuild it since it is burning oil but a tear down will have to wait until I get the money.
Where can I find brass replacement buttons, do they make them for both sides? When I adjusted the leaver I left space between the pto and leaver, I don’t understand how one run could have worn it down so fast if "engaged" the leaver should not be touching the pto. Obviously I did not do something right.
Wayne- You think that bracket is ok still? The deck is leaning towards that side a little which is why I asked about it, I know it’s hard to diagnose a lot on a forum.
Thanks for all your guy's help
Where can I find brass replacement buttons, do they make them for both sides? When I adjusted the leaver I left space between the pto and leaver, I don’t understand how one run could have worn it down so fast if "engaged" the leaver should not be touching the pto. Obviously I did not do something right.
Wayne- You think that bracket is ok still? The deck is leaning towards that side a little which is why I asked about it, I know it’s hard to diagnose a lot on a forum.
Thanks for all your guy's help
Patrick, regarding the mower deck hanger bracket, the stud where that bracket connects is likely worn. Same for the stud portion of the bracket itself. A little quality time with a welder and grinder should fix them up for another 30 or 40 years of service. Or you could get an adjustable hanger bracket which allows for some wear on either side and is useful for leveling the deck side to side. On to the PTO; The brass button is available from CC Specialties and CC Classics, both are forum sponsors, see the links above. Only the button for the lever is available in brass. The reason the thrust button wore prematurely is because you didn't have the engagement lever adjusted properly and the PTO was still spinning when it was in contact with the fiber button on the engagement lever. You did have at least a fiber button on the engagement lever didn't you?
Patrick, one other thing with the engagement lever adjustment, if you have it too tight against the thrust button when in the OFF position, the thrust button can actually bottom out on the end of the engine crankshaft and prevent the PTO from stopping. BTDT
I suppose I should mention that the PTO mounting position on the crank must be correct in order for the engagement lever adjustments to properly work. The PTO bearing must be mounted flush with the end of the crank. There should be a snap ring inside the PTO housing that determines the mounting point of the PTO to the bearing.
pfitzwater
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True, I think I just didnt have every thing adjusted properly. of course the button on the leaver is worn to nothing which I didnt realize. I should have just assumed it was. What is a fiber button? The tractor could use a complete tear down honestly. My biggest problem is not knowing what I am looking at in regards to parts that are not correct or needs to be replaced. I have an Idea but its always better to know what your looking at of course, The mower deck for example. I really like these older tractors, older then me and still running has to account for something.
Patrick, the "fiber" button is what should be in the engagement lever that presses against the PTO thrust button to disengage the PTO. The brass button is an aftermarket replacement for the fiber button. Here's a photo of one of my Cubs with the brass button.
pfitzwater
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OK, when I put the pto back on I slid it on till it wouldnt go any farther, should I back it out a 1/8? I did some searching after my post and found the fiber button. I plan on taking the pto off tonight and re-adjusting it i'll order new buttons too, Still havent found a flywheel mesh. I'll see if I cant patch up the one I have. for now.
I noticed also from that diagram that the second set of set screws should have been flat, the tractor only had the first three when I got it and I lost them so I bought 6 this time. but they all have a cone end. I hope I didn't tear anything up.
I noticed also from that diagram that the second set of set screws should have been flat, the tractor only had the first three when I got it and I lost them so I bought 6 this time. but they all have a cone end. I hope I didn't tear anything up.
Patrick, as long as the PTO bearing is flush with the end of the crank AND your PTO has the snap ring inside it, you'll want the PTO all the way back. Besides, the cone tip setscrews would likely pull the PTO into position as the tip wedges itself behind the bearing. Using the cone tip set screw to back up the first setscrew might have buggered up the first setscrews Allen/hex head so that it'll be a little tight to get the Allen wrench into it. Tight is better than loose, as in stripped out... DTDT too.
Oh, when you put it back on, use a wee bit of Anti-Seize on the setscrews, you'll thank yourself if you ever have to take it off again in the future.
Kraig-
Did you build that pto you posted? It's on a nf isn't it? It looks like several of mine that are pieced together. I thought that type of spring is suppose to be doubled too.
Patrick-
Kraig has pretty much filled you in on your immediate needs. One thing I do to check undercarriages is remove them and just place them on level concrete. It'll show warpage if it's there. The rotating arm with the pickle fork or slotted end will wear the cross member where it contacts. I've seen more than half of this shaft gone on a cub or two. It's the little things like this that add up to "tight" as they are repaired. I just weld up wallowed holes and re-drill/file them. I also weld up worn pins and reshape them like on the hanger you posted. You can tell when things are about right and adjusted properly. It lifts a lot easier and smoothly and maintains level.
As for the pto...just think about how it acts with the wear (fiber) button. When engaged the wear button pushes in and the pto stops turning. When you release the pto lever the button leaves the pto altogether and should remain a slight distance from the thrust button. Either way the wear button is only temporarily engaged to the turning thrust button. You may have play in the adjustment rod with the turnbuckle. The ends will wear and allow enough play to make it difficult to properly adjust the button gap. Again, it's all about getting the little things back tight. You're taking away about 35 years of neglect or just use.
Did you build that pto you posted? It's on a nf isn't it? It looks like several of mine that are pieced together. I thought that type of spring is suppose to be doubled too.
Patrick-
Kraig has pretty much filled you in on your immediate needs. One thing I do to check undercarriages is remove them and just place them on level concrete. It'll show warpage if it's there. The rotating arm with the pickle fork or slotted end will wear the cross member where it contacts. I've seen more than half of this shaft gone on a cub or two. It's the little things like this that add up to "tight" as they are repaired. I just weld up wallowed holes and re-drill/file them. I also weld up worn pins and reshape them like on the hanger you posted. You can tell when things are about right and adjusted properly. It lifts a lot easier and smoothly and maintains level.
As for the pto...just think about how it acts with the wear (fiber) button. When engaged the wear button pushes in and the pto stops turning. When you release the pto lever the button leaves the pto altogether and should remain a slight distance from the thrust button. Either way the wear button is only temporarily engaged to the turning thrust button. You may have play in the adjustment rod with the turnbuckle. The ends will wear and allow enough play to make it difficult to properly adjust the button gap. Again, it's all about getting the little things back tight. You're taking away about 35 years of neglect or just use.
Wayne, that's a PTO that I picked up as a spare, I used it "as is", well I suppose "as was" would be more accurate. Not sure what it came off of. It's pictured on a narrow frame but it didn't hold up. That's my K301 Killer Kohler which could be putting out somewhere around 17hp. I ended up having to install a double triangle spring PTO out of a parts 149 that I have. It was a brake style PTO but I converted it to a non-brake style by grinding away the nipple from the thrust button.
pfitzwater
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a snap ring on the inside of the pto it self? It never had one that I saw. What is it holding in?
Patrick, it's not very noticeable. It's there to provide a depth stop for mounting it.
Hey folks,
Sorry I was directed here to post this, I was thinking I'd post a new thread but this forum looks like just a running list of individual posts. Totally different than V8Buick.com forum. Gonna take me a while to get used to the landscape here. ANYWAY:
My father in law gave me his old Cadet 107 and it's missing various parts here and there, been somewhat bastardized, and I'm making an attempt to get it to where I can cut the grass. I have a 3 blade mower deck but the belt I have is way too short, driving the left (from front view) idler pulley of the mule drive right up into the frame, so I have to assume this is the incorrect belt. What's the proper belt for this unit? I think it's a 48" deck but I have to measure tonight. I also need the tension spring for said pulley as it's no longer there.
Also, I hear a lot about "narrow frame". How do I know if I have a tractor with narrow or wide frame?
Many more questions to follow but the main thing for now is I need to cut the grass before my dog gets lost.
Sorry I was directed here to post this, I was thinking I'd post a new thread but this forum looks like just a running list of individual posts. Totally different than V8Buick.com forum. Gonna take me a while to get used to the landscape here. ANYWAY:
My father in law gave me his old Cadet 107 and it's missing various parts here and there, been somewhat bastardized, and I'm making an attempt to get it to where I can cut the grass. I have a 3 blade mower deck but the belt I have is way too short, driving the left (from front view) idler pulley of the mule drive right up into the frame, so I have to assume this is the incorrect belt. What's the proper belt for this unit? I think it's a 48" deck but I have to measure tonight. I also need the tension spring for said pulley as it's no longer there.
Also, I hear a lot about "narrow frame". How do I know if I have a tractor with narrow or wide frame?
Many more questions to follow but the main thing for now is I need to cut the grass before my dog gets lost.
Ken, the 107 is a Narrow Frame. If it's a 48" deck the PTO to mower deck drive belt would be P/N: IH-489397-R3, which is a 3/8" wide X 75 1/2" long belt. Note, a basic hardware style belt will NOT hold up! Be sure to get a belt designed for the twisting that this use requires. Yeah they are expensive but a cheap belt that only lasts for a few minutes is more expensive. To verify the mower deck cutting width measure from outside blade tip to outside blade tip. Perhaps an easier way to tell would be the 48" deck has a seam on the discharge chute where the 42" deck is one piece.
