Archive through August 15, 2007

[digger]

Kraig,Matt,
I rest my case!

 

[digger]

Now you want something to piss you off!

 

[mgonitzke]

My 582 throwout bearing is Japanese too....at least they haven't sunk so low as to buy everything from China...

 

[dfrisk]

MATT - Spirol roll pins.... SPIROL IS the manufacturer....and there's ONLY one of them. My Hardware Buyer here at work is gone right now but I suspect they only have a single plant and EVERYONE Buys US made spirol pins from them. Of course there are imported parts, China, India, Turkey, Korea, etc. etc. etc. When You get into other types of pins like the solid hydro drive pin on the engine coupler there's a company called DRIV-LOC that makes a pin with a groove scratched down the side that could be used in a worn coupler/driveshaft to retain the pin.

I have a three-ring binder four inches thick here at work with NOTHING but specialty fasteners, pins, clips, snaprings, You name it.

It's true IHC used to make lots of threaded fasteners at their West Pullman, IL plant along with distributors, magnetos, small pump gears like for engine oil pumps & hydraulic pumps....but they also BOUGHT WAY more standard bolts, nuts, & washers than they had capacity to make.

 

[stanner]

I dunno Charlie.... these days I'd rather have Japan than China... Grrr

 

[aschumacher]

Guys, quick question. Pulled the plug on my Cubs little friend today and center electrode and side electrode were covered with a slight trace of white powder on them. This telling me something I've forgotten about over the years?? Thnx

 

[digger]

Allen S.
You mean something like this?

 

[aschumacher]

Charlie, yes on the top picture. Center and side electrode were evenly white, but no severe deforming as in other pix.

 

[digger]

From what I understand and maybe Dave Kirk or someone else will chime in, It's caused by oil and/or fuel additives. And also carb adjustments.
Those pics are from my old 1450 that the plug had not been changed in at least 4 years, LOL

The cure for this is to verify worn valve guides or valve seals, not using fuel additives, or you might even try changing fuel brands. By the way, a hotter plug is what most people try to fix this problem. You need to first understand that the plug is NOT typically the problem.

Also,
a pre-ignition problem, with a little lean to boot.

 

[kweaver]

... and a hotter plug isn't good for air cooled engines ...

Allen - According to my book for ; yellow, white or brownish crust-like deposits over electrode and insulator > Typical of chemical make-up of some gasolines, but usally a result of "old foggy" driving. Treatment > Clean and file electrode, go out and "stand-on-it" to clean out combustion chamber.

 

[digger]

I just did a search in the vault.
Dave K says,
The spark plug you show has all the indications of running an oil with high ash content. That's what is deposited on the ground electrode. Probably doesn't help that the engine appears to be a high oil consumer too.

 

[digger]

Maybe that's why they say to run Low Ash Oil too.

 

[dtanner]

miracle whip when applied to old stickers and left for a time(overnight), will soften the glue and the old sticker can be removed easly. Just my 2 cents

 

[ckuba]

Dean, Bruce, Pops, Matt and Frank, Thanks for all of the info. I haven't pulled the clutch yet as I want to get some of my body parts for my 1450 painted and back on the tractor (always want at least one running). When I was pricing clutch parts, I added pressure plate and drive shaft to the list. That may have been what put me close to $400. As for the remains of the stickers, I sanded them down as much as I could tonight and am planning to primer heavy and paint. You guys wouldn't believe how hard portions of the sticker got. No chance of scraping with a razor blade. I'll be using a Craftsman airless sprayer to prime and paint. Anyone have experience using one of these for cub restoration? Is paint thinner needed? If so, how much per quart?

 

[dsauve]

Christian I have never shot auto refinish paint with an airless sprayer only house paint. I can;t see why that won't work. If you know haow to run it and have some experiance it should work. As far as the thinner the amount needed depaends on the gun, paint, temp, humidity. Start with a small amount and add as needed too much is is alot harder to deal with but you most likely need some to eliminate orange peel.
the decals need to be completely removed or they will show through the paint. The outline of the peices will show up with glossy paint in the light.

 

[dsauve]

Donald I never heard of the miracle whip trick but it has to a lot cheaper than the 3M stuff. It would be worth it even if it takes twice as long.

 

[dsauve]

Weighing in on the horse power debate, traction is the key on the pulling but on the pto or belt horse power is almost important as important as the torque. Torque is the measurement of turning power. High horses and low torque won't do as much as a balanced package. The great Kohlers are so good at the torque.

 

[aschumacher]

Charlie+Ken, thanks for your input. This is an old engine,but is one speed- high. Oil is regular name brand but not low ash, I always throw a little MMO in fuel can too. Lastly I took carb apart and found idle screw 1/8 turn out, now at 3/4. Always had to tweak main jet to get it to run good, I guess too lean. Will see tomorrow how it works when Cub pulls some stuff over for 'Chippie' to eat! Thanx Guys

 

[lbuttke]

Speaking of fouled plugs.
Today I went to start my 127 and it fired right up as usall, but than died suddenly. Tried restarting it and I got no fire, pulled the plug and the electrode was covered in black oily carbon.
Now I know where the oil is comming from, I add MMO to the gas, but an puzzeled as to where all the carbon is comming from.
I have had to replace the head gasket last spring and I did clean the head and piston of all carbon
heres what the block and piston looked like when I put it back together,

The head was just as clean.
I have less than 3 tanks of gas through it since I replaced the head gasket last spring.
What would be causeing the motor to carbon up so soon and foul out the plug?

 

[hcole]

Lonny, that sounds like a bad coil, the deposit being accumulated as the thing went bad.