Archive through August 14, 2012

[proessler]

Kraig, thanks for posting my pic. One more Tech step ahead! Or still behind...

 

[dfrisk]

RODNEY K, Jeff B. - I think more parts interchange between a WF & NF than you might think. If they're both internal brake rearends, the whole rearend and all the internals would swap. If the 129 has external disc brakes on each wheel, then those brakes & the linkage is different, but everything else is still the same. The clutch is the same except for the bracket the clutch lever pivots on and the lever. The frt axles are stronger, more iron on the WF, but IMO, the welded spindles are weaker. But I think the tie rods are both internchangable. The entire engines from a 147 & 128 interchange. The wire harness is different, but everything the harness hooks to is interchangable.

Back when I had my 129, hydro version of the 128, I was amazed how many common parts it had with my #70 & 72.

 

[dschwandt]

OK, I give up! What's going on here with these "training wheels" here on this plow I just bought??!!
Can anyone shed some light on what looks to me like a homade add on of some type here??

Other than this, it appears to be in pretty good shape!

Dave S.

 

[jjsmith]

I second that question. Friend of mine has a 3pt plow with a very similar set up. I thought maybe it was in some way for depth control?

 

[rkelm]

Everyone thanks for the info on the WF and NF, I still haven't decided about the 128. I am finding more and more of these CC's now that I advertised I am looking, found a 106 real cheap and had to leave a message about location may go look at it as well. It may come down to which looks the best and which will have the least amount of work involved. Thanks again.

 

[kmcconaughey]

David, that would be a home made gauge wheel for limiting depth. The CAT-0 3 point Brinly plow had one from the factory.

 

[jbaker]

Dennis You are correct on interchanging parts I guess I was just thinking too quick ...... lol

 

[dschwandt]

Guess I'll need to try it out somewhere before I make a fool of myself at a plow day, huh??

So, should I leave it on there?

Dave S.

 

[kmcconaughey]

David, I'd try it out and see how it works with it left on. Then try it out in the same soil with it removed. Perhaps the previous owner didn't know how to set it up...

 

[dfrisk]

DAVE - Those "Training wheels" won't hurt anything, but a properly set-up plow doesn't need them. I'd try the plow with them and if they cause problems you can remove them.

Before you try plowing I'd try to polish up the moldboard. It looks rusty enough it won't scour and will pull really hard. 3-M makes a paint removing pad for use in drills that should remove that rust pretty well. Looks like a very coarse Scotch-Brite Pad or disc, but is coated with abrasive. You don't want to remove metal, just rust.

 

[ljones]

Just found a 169 for sale, it comes with a front blade, from the picture it looks like it has a AQS engine in it, I'm waiting for the s/n. He wants $350 for it, would this be a good price if it checks out to be a real 169?

 

[dschwandt]

Yeah, I know I gotta doe some rust removeal there. Plan on using some flap discs on the angle grinder.

The coulter bearing and pin seem fairly tight yet. My other plow that I got last spring needs big help in that dept so was glad to locate this one on C/L.
Looked on some of the sponsors web sites for coulter bearing assly's/[arts but could find none. Is Brinley still in existance for parts??

Dave S.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Brinly is still around.

Brinly Moldboard Plow Model PP-51BH

Here's a parts list to the older one that you have. I assume your other one is the same.

 

[mhomrighausen]

David S. Once the rust is removed from your plow take an old red brick and use that to actually scour or "put some shine" onto your plow moldboard. That brick is better for that type of steel. And your depth gauge wheels work best if you're in an area where there are some wet spots that may tend to suck the plow into the ground. Otherwie they aren't really necessary. Kind of neat though. Now to really put a shine on that plow just take it to the Ottumwa, Iowa Fall Plow Day. Sandy soil that will really make that plow shine and not work your tractor.

Lucas J. That isn't too bad of a price if the sheet metal and everything else is complete.

 

[jbaker]

Lucas let us know what you find that sounds real good on price

 

[drglinski]

Can a sleeve hitch adapter work with a rototiller gearbox installed, or does the gearbox have to be removed? IE will the hitch adapter clear the gearbox. Thanks

 

[dschwandt]

Thanks Kraig, for the info and the link.
I got on it and printed out the manual and parts list, Just amazing that parts for this equipment are still available.
A little more to it than just "sticking it in the ground"!!

Dave S.

 

[digger]

Daniel G.
If you have a standard sleeve hitch, the gear box has to come off.
BUT!
Xtrememotorworks.com listed at the top of the page sells extensions to make it so you don't have to remove it.

 

[wcompton]

Daniel-
The adapter Charlie mentioned works well. If by chance you plan on using a moldboard plow with that sleeve hitch I think you're going to be disappointed due to the trash that will build up around the cast pulley on the bottom of the tiller right-angle gearbox.

Another popular idea is to install studs in the rear cover and nut the inspection cover on, and then mount the gearbox bracket or lower hitch bracket on the studs.

 

[wheinsohn]

Daniel, as Wyatt has stated, I have used the studs with nuts on 3 of my tractors with great success. But do put in 5 studs and not just 4. The tiller bracket needs the 4 studs but the hitch and rear lift need the bottom 3 studs on the back. I believe Bryan McMean did just the 4 studs and when he installed the lift and was plowing, he bent the 2 lower studs.