Archive through August 14, 2012

[mpatterson]

So your saying I should be hanging the sign inside the shop Jeff to prevent it from fading out so quickly then? Point taken!

So was thinking of buying a used rear from a 1650 and transplanting it into my 782 frame - good or bad idea? Has external ports on it to hook up to my remotes to. Should be a straight switch over shouldn't it? Anything I should be concerned about when hooking up the drive shaft and hydralic lines? How's the best way to prep it for repainting? Was thinking of using a scraper and wire brush and clean it up good with paint thinner to get rid of any dust, prime it and then spray some good quality red paint on it - sound good?
Figured getting this would be easier to get this winter tractor idea underway. Any thoughts or head shaking to this idea?

 

[drglinski]

Thanks guys for the replies about the tiller mount/sleeve hitch. Also, it makes sense about the trash build up with plowing- good point- never would have thought about it.

Is there any hytran fluid loss, and so, how much, when the gearbox is unattached? I've never taken one off and am trying to learn what I need to before attempting to do it. Thanks a lot!

 

[rfuller]

Someone on here must have worked or known someone that worked for International Harvester. Do you happen to know what material the cast parts are? front axle, rear case, drive shaft couplers? Ductile iron, cast iron? Know what grade? Need to do some welding and might need to know this for the welding shop.

Rob

 

[rrschmitt]

Mike P,

The picts of the 1650 show that its a later QL model as the transmission has an internal brake and the hydro pump has the autodump valves which is the same as would be on a 782. The tranny will fit right in. You will likely need to use the existing drive shaft on your 782. Inspect the mating coupling on the pump to make sure the bushing/bearing is in good shape. I see that the 1650 only has one flex coupling shown but it should have two, same as your 782.

I would also recommend you pull the back cover off the 1650 tranny and change the Hytran oil and filter before you install it in your 782. Follow the attached FAQ for that.
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/HytranChange.htm

Two things not mentioned in the FAQ is remove any geletin globs in the bottom and I recommend putting gasket sealer on the threads of each rear cover bolt to prevent any oil leaks as sometimes the factory tapped the bolt holes a little too deep in the casting, leaving a small opening into th bolt hole where oil can migrate in.

While you have the transmission out, look for any obvious oil leaks and inspect the trunnion on the hydro pump for signs of wear. Repairs can be made following the attached link.

http://cubfaq.com/trunionrepair.html

Other useful FAQ's
Hytran Oil: http://cubfaq.com/hytran.html
Inspect/Fix Leaks: http://cubfaq.com/hydroleak1.html
http://cubfaq.com/hydroleak2.html
Cork Gasket Replacement: http://cubfaq.com/corkgasket.html
Torque value for rear cover: http://cubfaq.com/rearplate.html
Neutral Adjustment: http://cubfaq.com/neutraladjust.html
Drive Shaft Removal on QL: http://cubfaq.com/qldriveshaft.html Note: 82 series removal will be very similar.

 

[dfrisk]

ROB F. - Paul Bell may know better, but I'd assume the cast iron is all class 30 gray iron. Normal (EXPENSIVE) Nickel rod should work fine. IH didn't make much from ductile iron.

If by drive shaft couplers you mean the yokes used with the rag joints, then yes, class 30 gray iron. If you mean the couplers used on the NF drive shafts they were bored out of 1" dia 1018 steel bar.

With the price of nickel welding rod and what people charge to use it that know how to weld CI, you might be better off getting used parts.

Last time I checked, a 1/8th inch nickel welding rod 14 inches long cost $1/each. It was always expensive but with $7/pound the current price of nickel, I don't even try to weld CI, the practice to get good costs WAY too much money. Nickel was almost $14/pound early 2011, nobody was welding CI or much stainless steel for that matter.

The trick to successful welding of CI is all n the preperation. It must be pre-heated to 400-500 degrees F, then kept hot while welding, and cooled slowly while peening to relieve stress. The welding migrates carbon towards the weld heat effected zone and it becomes hard and brittle, tends to crack. You have to relieve those stresses. And welding short beads really helps too. Weld an inch, peen the weld, weld another inch, peen that weld, etc.

 

[mgonitzke]

Mike P.-

What's wrong with the current transmission on the 782? As far as I can see, you're trying to replace the rearend with an identical one...

 

[mpatterson]

Thanks for the info Ron.

Matt,
Problem is.... I don't have a hydro unit on it. Its my parts tractor and that was missing off it along with the hood and side panels. I have the rear axle still. But I figured if I could get the entire axle and hydro unit from the 1650, I could just swap it instead of trying to find another hydro unit itself. I also have to hunt down some rear tire and rims and the steering linkage with the ball joints. Not sure, perhaps I am going about this the long way around, but parts are sort of slim up here, so figured I'd start collecting them. Make sense or am I out to lunch.

 

[pbell]

Dennis, Rob F
The foundry at Louisville Works was the largest IH had, and was identified in an article in the IH magazine Harvester World, Vol 40, #3, March 1949, as a Grey Iron foundry. The article, on pages 14-17 is about the first pour from the new foundry, even though it was not finished. The pour took place at 10:44 PM, Jan 17, 1949, and the first objects poured were some of the cast iron bears holding a tractor. The magazine can be viewed on line as part of the McCormick Collection, Wisconsin Historical Society, at http://content.wisconsinhistory.org/cdm4/document.php?CISOROOT=/ihc&CISOPTR=17583&REC=1

 

[jmacdonald]

Wanted to say thanks for those that helped me repair my model 70 shifter. Yesterday we mowed the green areas, and those that used to be green ,but now crunchy!

Sometime ago I bought the grandson a model 123 not running for a project tractor. Somebody had started to take it apart then gave up. We have all the parts and pieces. We knew the flywheel drive cup was broken, missing fan, and the driveshaft was bent. Today we started taking a good look. I wanted to see if the transmission had any major issues so he wouldn't put all his effort into a tractor then be frustrated when it wouldn't move. I really want him to succeed on his first tractor.
I wanted to see if I could crudely test the transmission by turning the transmission coupler by hand: hoping to see the rear wheels turning while up on a jack, and in forward or reverse.
Well the weels didn't turn. Is that because it's a hydro, and I can't spin the coupler fast enough?

The 15 year old Grandson is pretty exited as this is his tractor. He couldn't wait to power wash it, and get a wrench in his hand. Oddly he doesn't get this exicted when I ask him to clean up his room.

 

[thoffman]

Will a air cleaner assmby fit on a K series engine? Is it the same or close as ones on the 169?

 

[mpatterson]

Paul B.
That is great reading from the Historical Society. Thank you for that!

 

[dtanner]

James MacDonald

Take your electric drill and using the same rotation of the drive shaft you can spin the shaft that comes out of the hydro pump. You should be able to see the rear wheels turn in the direction that you have the hydro handle set at.

 

[digger]

Tom H.
The back plates are pretty much all the same.

 

[thoffman]

Charlie, Thanks for the info. Just thinking of giving the next project tractor a 169/meaner look.

 

[digger]

I did that to the 147 years ago. I figured more air more power, right! LOL

 

[ralbert]

Gee Charlie...your pictures look odd without a white background...

 

[digger]

Gimme a couple weeks!

 

[rfuller]

Dennis,

Thanks for the information. I would have guessed everything on the cubs would have been ductile iron from front axle, drive shaft couplings, rear end, and mechanical ptos. I'll have to find out what it will cost to weld. Otherwise I might as well look for a new part.

Paul,

Thank you for the information. I'll have to make a trip to see the collection.

 

[wshytle]

Charlie-

Didn't those wheel weights come from a brand a little closer to the color of that grass?

And we all know you have many IH weights.

Nice looking 147!

 

[dfrisk]

ROB - Yes, ductile, sometimes called Nodular iron is very good material. But gray iron can hold it's own too. Company I used to work for made ultra-high pressure reciprocating piston pumps for the food/chemical processing industry, also used them for the emergency backup cooling pumps for nuclear power plants... The cylinder block & head was 15-5 H900 stainless steel forgings, the machine base was class 30 gray iron. Two inch diameter 17-4 H900 studs held the block & head to the machine base. When something failed, the block or head failed, the studs NEVER pulled out of the gray iron base.

Gray iron machines nice an easy, just really REALLY dirty with all the carbon in it. Lot cheaper than steel too.

WAYNE - That style of wheel weight Charlie has is ANOTHER thing that company borrowed, or copied from somebody else. I bought a pair of used weights like that at a farm auction in about 1970 for $5/pair. They had NO sign of ANY paint on them at all, no markings, insignia, no part number, no trademark from the foundry that cast them, NOTHING. They had about a 20 year coating of rust and dust on them from being stored someplace around a livestock barn. I cleaned them up, painted them 935 white and everytime somebody say's there's that off-topic brand of weights I correct them.

Speaking of wheel weights, at PD #1, some guys were using front wheel weights from H & M FARMALL's for rear wheel weights on Cub Cadets. The H & M wheels had three 1/2" mounting holes for the weights, but the weights have two sets of holes, 60 degrees apart, the same spacing as the CC rear wheels, so they still fit fine with only two bolts, and weigh 42# each, and normally sell cheaper than the 26# CC rear or Cub frt weights. Plus they're thinner, so running 2-3 pair doesn't widen the tractor as much.