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Archive through August 14, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Patrick:
It makes sense after 8 or 10 years.. This, the main topic area is for IH Cub Cadet garden tractors. If you go to the top of the page, click on "Topics", you can see what each topic area is for and yes, they just run by day, with each topic eventually getting archived, with recent archives available at the top of each topic. The intention, I believe, is like most addictive things, ya just gotta keep coming back every day....
 
Glen - That vinyl isn't going to get to hot with that big muffler that close is it ?
Could ruin a good graphic , get us some "Before Startup" pics just in case
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HEHEHE.... And Glen even followed IH Industrial tractor syling by using BLACK as the color for the Hydro decal. The red/while ag tractors used white with the silver border.

I always thought IH should have made more turbo charged hydro's, the 1066 Hydro was the ONLY one, then they could have put both TURBO and HYDRO decals on them.
 
Glen, looking good!
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Patrick, WELCOME!
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<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

The grass was tall, and was bogging the tractor down a little, so I speed up the throttle a little higher...<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

While not entirely related to your question, were you not mowing at full throttle? The manual for the Cub Cadet 128 states to run at full throttle.

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Rob, not sure about Danco or Johnson but there are these:

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Thanks guys, actually Ken, thats all paint. I got really lucky that it came out as nice as it did. And so far the paint hasnt been affected by the muffler and I've had the old girl runnin full tilt for a couple hours mowing a field down and it got hot, but didnt burn any paint except for that on the muffler (to be expected, those little kohlers generate some serious heat!)
 
Kraig M. You may recall a recent inquiery about QA42A stub shafts being removable and that mine were not. I have now removed everything from the augar tube by cutting welds etc and believe that the unit was built by having two 1/8" thick discs about 3" apart welded on a 6" length of 1" shaft - one being at the end and one at the mid point of the shaft. The assy was then welded into the augar tube with the appropriate length protruding. Not sure how the sprocket was attached as the PO had replaced and welded it on (crooked I might add). I will get a full length shaft, machine two end plugs and weld them to the shaft and then into the tube. Will probably drill a new sprocket to bolt to the end plate so that it can be removed. A lot of work and it is not even a very good augar.
 
After getting some good advice on how to lower the front end of my deck by bending the pickle bar I removed the deck in preperation for that chore.. Then I remembered that somewhere in the shed, from an old yard sale, I had a set of Quietline deck pins that I knew were 1" higher that the those that came on the flat sided decks. I found them and sure enough it seemed like it would work and after I put them on I now have a level deck. It is a miricle as normally I am a pure idot.
 
Well, I dont know if its actually full throttle the lever is about in the middle Idleing high. High enough to cut the grass, if its at the "proper" setting I dont know. if every thing is adjusted correctly I dont really know. I am still not able to get the pto to stop engageing. when I first installed it it worked but since the button has been worn after one run Ive had to adjust it again and still much play and there is not much room left to adjust, Also I was woundering if the button on the pto that the leaver applies preasure to is suppose to wear down so fast. I am sure its made of soft metal for this reason but it has now reversed the concaved surface. I will try and get some pictures for you guys tonight.
 
Mike,
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good to hear you have it nice and level now.
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Doug, yep, I recall that. any chance you can post some photos of your repairs? They could be helpful for someone in the future. I wonder if the PO welded both ends in?
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If I were you, I'd still keep my eyes open for a replacement auger. Spare parts are a good thing.
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Charlie "Digger" Proctor

dang Charlie did you score more cub stuff ? We are camping and the wife let me use her lt for a minute.I wish I had that Digger luck finding cub stuff ( but then I would find the horse shoe uncomfortable hehe) later Don T


I did manage to destroy the torque converter in my truck pulling my fiver,seems my right foot is heaver than my left lol.that will cost me a bunch of Cub parts.
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Patrick - You never had your PTO lever adjusted right to begin with and still isn't.

These are AIR COOLED engines and HAVE TO BE RUN WIDE OPEN TO COOL.

Glen - I thought that was vinyl it looked so good.

Doug - That's the way the rollers in round balers are put in , just stubs.


Somebody please tell Patrick how to setup his PTO , I've got an appointment...
 
Patrick, sounds like you may not have had that PTO engagement lever properly adjusted.
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The center button (thrust button) on the PTO should not wear down very fast provided the button on the engagement lever is intact. Lots of us here prefer the brass version of the engagement button, which is readily available from some of the forum sponsors.

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The PTO itself is easy to rebuild and/or adjust. There are links to manuals at the bottom of the main page that have all the info you need. THIS ONE should have the info for your model.
 
Thank you Ken, Dennis I often wondered why they only advertised one or the other on the three and four digit tractors, I suppose it eventually became common knowledge that if it said Turbo it was assumed to be a Hydro as well. I also wonder why every yellow 1xx6/8 ive found isnt labeled as industrial nor do they have the "2" before the 1xx6/8. was yellow just a color option along with the white or gold dealer demos?
 
Patrick - You must have had the "Button" riding on the PTO to hard from the initial setup and probably still do since it's wearing bad and not releasing you've probably wore it down to far and maybe even into the lever.
I leave a little air-gap between mine.

Since these engines are air cooled that means that they are designed to get optimal cooling at 3600rpm , that's the way the cooling fins on the flywheel are designed. With the summer temps they need to be ran at wide open throttle (WOT) or they're going to get excessively hot.

That's what make HYDROS! superior
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That's the LAW boys , don't mess with the LAW !
 
Kraig: I'll take some photos of my sno thrower augar repair as it proceeds and post em for reference.
 
GLEN - Actually, only the 1066 Hydro was turbo'd, all the other IH hydro's used naturally asperated engines. The Hydro 186 & 3488 used a D436 if I remember right. The 1066 gear drive was IH's largest selling tractor of the 66-series. I'd guess you'll see 100 gear drives for every Hydro you can find. The 966 Hydro was more popular than the 1066 hydro. Travis Schwitser who hosted several PD's used to have a 966 hydro which I think got traded in on a Harley. ;-)

The "2" prefix on model numbers to denote Industrial stopped with the 56-series. It was a pretty low production option overall. Yellow was an option for the 66 & 86 series tractors. I also released paint from IH's paint suppliers and was given advanced notice of all special order yellow tractors. We built quite a few yellow 86 series actually, for Chisholm-Ryder as the power for vegetable harvesters, and also some road paving company whose name escapes me right now. We even built a bunch of 86-series tractors with orange chassis and green cabs for a huge carrot farmer out in California. Wished I'd have gotten a pic of those before they all shipped!

The White Demo tractors for certain models back in 1950 and the Gold Demo's from 1970 were not options really, just differences in paint color to draw attention to the tractors during field tests. I think the sales regions actually decided which models and how many to order for their regions. The tractors were supposed to be repainted before delivery to the ultimate buyer, but sometimes those paints jobs didn't happen or were poorly done.

I wasn't around long enough during the 88-series production to see any of those get special paint treatments. FARMALL had their new E-COAT Paint system in place for the last few weeks of 86-series production and all of the 88-series production and I'm not real sure how they would have handled special colors of paint. I suspect the chassis would have been satin black as the red tractors were with just the sheetmetal being painted the optional color on a different paint line. If I remember right, FARMALL had four paint lines or booths before the E-coat system was built.
 
Dennis, very interesting, so it is possible then that the yellow 1466's I've found were just ordered yellow for hi-vis operationsas opposed to being a labeled industrial tractor? I know dear john had highway dept. orange on their smaller tractors, never seen an orange international tho. Thank you for filling me in on that, truly interesting. I wonder if my cub is the only 149/1466 industrial then
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