Archive through August 14, 2011

[kweaver]

Glen - The amp meter will show like that because it's showing the charge it's putting back in the battery that the starter robbed cranking over.

If the wire is getting hot make sure you have good clean connections on every thing and might be that you need a larger wire , 10ga. at least.

 

[gcoleman]

Ok Ken, I'll double and probably end up triple checking everything to make sure, thank you

 

[kide]

Geez, I check out for a day and the place goes dead... Charlie - don't we work backwards from #6320 for shift coverage? I'll check the contract and see what was negotiated...

 

[mhomrighausen]

Chris M. Good find on the 122. They are great little tractors.

Charlie P. Sometimes I think you are like a magnet with finding things like those dash panels.

 

[jbaker]

heres my some of my troops heading to the Winnabago county, Il fair... hope to see some northern Illinios guys there..

 

[mbrennan]

To Steve: Mr Plow:
Thanks so much for your response very helpful. Sent you a PM. I think my issue is the over size tires installed by the PO making the rear higher thus lowering the fron. Re=angleing the pickle bar seems illogical, but I will give it a try. I'll take air out of the tires first and see if that takes me where I need to go.

 

[dfrisk]

MIKE B. - Larger O/S rear tires raises the rear and to a lesser extent the front of the deck as well, since the other contact point of the tractor is the frt wheels. But in effect, makes the deck seem like it's lower in front because the frt doesn't raise as much.

The decks should be slightly lower in front, maybe 1/8th inch at most. The lever that slips over your rockshaft to "SISSOR" the frt end of your deck up/down has to be in decent shape, I've had to weld up my rockshaft three times because the lever wore half way thru the rockshaft, and the lever itself wears as well. Finally last time I welded a piece of steel 1 inch wide to increase the bearing area of the lever on ths shaft. That slowed wear down a lot.

All the spindle bearings must be in good shape, no looseness in them so the hold the blades steady as they rotate.

As for letting air out of the tires, deflating the rear tires will lower the rear of the tractor, but to lower them enough to make any difference you will have to lower them so much the tires will flex tremendously, but it would help ou troubleshoot the problem. The over-all diameter of the 6-12 tires used on all 7 HP CC's was about 22 inches, the 8.50 & 10.50 tires were all about 23 inches in diameter. The big 12.00-12 tires on the Super Garden tractors were all about 26 inches in diameter. Brand and tread style and inflation PSI effect those dimensions a little. So really, as long as your tractor has tires it was intended to have, the mower deck SHOULD be able to accomidate them if everything is assembled & attached correctly and all in usable shape.

Once you get used to these CC's, you'll find they have the simplest most interchangeable attachments of any brand.

 

[digger]

Thanks Tom H.

 

[mbrennan]

Dennis:
Thanks for your input. This is a new tractor to me but I have owned a 127 for 36 years. My current shaft is good and round. The lever or pikle bar sissors end only goes over the shaft about half way, which I am told is as it should be. But the front of the deck is a good inch lower than the rear. Very confusing. The picle bar is straight as is the whole carriage????

 

[dross]

Mike, stuff gets warped Previous owners hit things or put the deck in a hard bind on some wierd ditch setup they had. Is the deck itself warped (front to back). If you can't adjust the front up with the front levelers or the rear of the deck down. You have something out of adjustment. The fix Steve B gave you is a valad fix, it works. I've had a couple deck in the last 25 years that I could not get level with factory adjustments, sometimes you have to bend a little steel.

 

[gcoleman]

Its officially a hydro! Admittedly its not perfect...but hey..not bad for a an outline and free hand, just needs to have the silver shadowing painted on next (need a finer brush) it should look PDG

 

[pfitzwater]

Hi guys I'm a little confused on how this board works so I hope I'm in the right spot. I found a post similar to my problem yesterday but now can't find it.

I just rebuilt and replaced my pto on my 128 and started mowing, finished the front yard And moved to the back that had some higher grass, got 1/4 or more threw, had the rpm's a little higher then I run it and started hearing a metal on metal sound. Looks like the rear fan shrowd has been grinding away some small screws on the clutch and the sound seems to be coming from this area. Could the shroud been broken off and spinning freely? It also would not turn over, waited a few minutes and it would turn over but not fire, I checked the oil before I stared but didn't think to check it then. It burns oil and could use a rebuild I admit. I never took a older small engine apart before. Any thoughts or ideas? I'll try and post pictures. But again I'm a little confused as how this forum works, I don't see separate threads like v-bulletin uses

 

[gcoleman]

Patrick, welcome

youre in the right spot. When you were in the taller grass, did the engine seem under more load than usual or to be struggling? And did your PTO stop working? My 149 has a mostly broken debris screen on its flywheel and it catches the blower housing on occasion making noise but its never stopped the engine from turning over. Ive had issues with my engine doing exactly what yours does, check all your electrical connections to make sure theyre tight and clean. clean and gap your spark plug as burning oil (my cub used to do that as well) can foul a plug up pretty good. try turning the engine over by hand first with the PTO off and see if it locks up or if its difficult to turn over. then try it with the PTO on and see if the PTO makes it any harder to turn over, it could be binding up or if the bearing is going bad. Good luck and let us know how it goes. We like pictures here too, makes explainin problems easier when you can show whats broke as well as describe it.

 

[thoffman]

Charlie,
Not a problem!

 

[ljones]

Glen, nice touch, there is no way I could do that freehand.

 

[gcoleman]

Lucas, thank you, I almost couldnt finish them, I started shakin a little from fatigue (almost as bad as trying to pinstripe an entire car in one shot after splitting wood by hand all day...wasnt pretty) but eventually I got em done. Itll look much better on the tractor

 

[pfitzwater]

I see, so the forum is like a open discussion. I am not sure on what is called what, there is the mesh like screen that is on all typical small engines, is that what your calling a debre shield? The grass was tall, and was bogging the tractor down a little, so I speed up the throttle a little higher and was taking it slow maybe not enough? But the blades never stopped. Would that cause the crank or other internals to break? I would think the belts would slip and burn before that. If I can tomarow before it gets dark, I'll take pictures and investigate more with your suggestions.

 

[pbell]

Looks good Glen.

 

[gcoleman]

Patrick, the wire mesh attached to the drive hub is what i referenced as the debris shield, yes. It could also be an issue with your timing, check your point gap (the small cover on the left side of the engine if your sitting on the tractor next to the cam gear cover or dip stick depending on which kohler you have) and make sure that the clearance between the points is 0.020" and or it could be your ACR (Automatic Compression Release) mechanism on your camshaft itself if your kohler is equipped with it.

 

[mgerecke]

Thanks Tom H. for my Quietline parts!