David-You are genleman and a scholar and my new best friend. This carb sat in a box of parts for 24 years. I soaked and cleaned that carb two times and made sure every passage was clear, except the vent. Got out my torch tip cleaners and dug out the remnants of a mud dauber nest. Reset the float and put it back together and no leaks. My thanks to you and everyone else for their help. I am adding that item to my mandatory check list for the future.
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Archive through August 10, 2016
- Thread starter danderson
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mgwin
Well-known member
lpalma
Well-known member
Doug,
yes a small wire,typo on my part.Looks like that worked for you.
yes a small wire,typo on my part.Looks like that worked for you.
Lew-Now I understand your post. You had the answer first. Hats off to all you guys. I mentioned in an earlier post that I threw another carb on it and it did the same thing. Looked in that vent and it was plugged also. Damn wasps.
jwiggins
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- Apr 25, 2016
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- 749
- displayname
- Jason Wiggins
J
jclazar
Guest
Hey guys! Well, I think I have the " transmission noise " figured out on my IH Cub Cadet 1450 Quiet Line. After removing the fender pan assembly, tunnel cover, and side panels, I c-clamped a thin board across the rear section of the frame to support the battery.
I started up my 1450 and moved the lever forward slightly, and walked beside the tractor, out in the big open back yard I have. I discovered the "noise" was not at all in the pump, or trans axle. I then made sure all six transmission supporting cap screws were still tight. I also inspected the front two cap screws that connect to "z" style support brackets that connect the front of it to the frame. The cap screws going into the cast iron on the inside were secure, and the "z" style brackets are not broke! Nothing leaking other than the cork gasket I just installed over a year ago, so all in all, was good news at the business-end of the 1450! So you guys seem to have been correct about the rear ends being "bullet-proof"! I never abuse my machines, so that might support what you all have mentioned!
Started the tractor back up, walking along, listening to the "noise", that is rather intermittent, I would not hear it so much as when traveling across even, level ground. I do notice the "noise" when going over uneven, un-level ground at which point, sounds like a pop, or a slow pepper corn grinder, and goes away just as soon as I hear it. The "noise" is more frequent when I'm on the tractor with all of my 210# weight. But even then, the "noise" would hit and miss. I even experimented, and jacked the rear of the tractor's rear wheels off the ground, started the engine, and excelled the forward travel lever all the way. The rear wheels spun and spun along with out ever hearing the "noise".
So I shut the 1450 down, and inspected the new Cub Cadet ISO mounts, thinking that the drive line is out of alignment, and this would be a good as place as any to inspect. I noticed that I had just slightly over snugged all four, and loosened up the tension with out any extra engine movement noticed when running. Did not seem to help much, if only a little. Anyhow, the new ISO mounts are/look to be in great condition.
Came to realize after running the 1450 again, back up the west 40, and into the barn, that the "noise" has to be coming from the drive flange off the flywheel-end of the Kohler K321AQs engine.
Anyone recognize these symptoms as being the drive flange off the engine on a hydro-drive Quiet Line?
One another note, the pale-green yellow IH cub Cadet looks like someone had a lot of time on their hands! Some craftmanship in the works for sure!
Have a good afternoon, stay cool now!
John L.
I started up my 1450 and moved the lever forward slightly, and walked beside the tractor, out in the big open back yard I have. I discovered the "noise" was not at all in the pump, or trans axle. I then made sure all six transmission supporting cap screws were still tight. I also inspected the front two cap screws that connect to "z" style support brackets that connect the front of it to the frame. The cap screws going into the cast iron on the inside were secure, and the "z" style brackets are not broke! Nothing leaking other than the cork gasket I just installed over a year ago, so all in all, was good news at the business-end of the 1450! So you guys seem to have been correct about the rear ends being "bullet-proof"! I never abuse my machines, so that might support what you all have mentioned!
Started the tractor back up, walking along, listening to the "noise", that is rather intermittent, I would not hear it so much as when traveling across even, level ground. I do notice the "noise" when going over uneven, un-level ground at which point, sounds like a pop, or a slow pepper corn grinder, and goes away just as soon as I hear it. The "noise" is more frequent when I'm on the tractor with all of my 210# weight. But even then, the "noise" would hit and miss. I even experimented, and jacked the rear of the tractor's rear wheels off the ground, started the engine, and excelled the forward travel lever all the way. The rear wheels spun and spun along with out ever hearing the "noise".
So I shut the 1450 down, and inspected the new Cub Cadet ISO mounts, thinking that the drive line is out of alignment, and this would be a good as place as any to inspect. I noticed that I had just slightly over snugged all four, and loosened up the tension with out any extra engine movement noticed when running. Did not seem to help much, if only a little. Anyhow, the new ISO mounts are/look to be in great condition.
Came to realize after running the 1450 again, back up the west 40, and into the barn, that the "noise" has to be coming from the drive flange off the flywheel-end of the Kohler K321AQs engine.
Anyone recognize these symptoms as being the drive flange off the engine on a hydro-drive Quiet Line?
One another note, the pale-green yellow IH cub Cadet looks like someone had a lot of time on their hands! Some craftmanship in the works for sure!
Have a good afternoon, stay cool now!
John L.
John- The end of the driveshaft will wear where it rides in the bushing. The bushing wears out also. I replaced both on my 1250. Grab the shaft and try to move it up and down or side to side.
hydroharry
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- Jul 22, 2007
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- displayname
- Harry Bursell
John L - gol-der'n it. The way you described your symptoms it didn't strike me as being something to do with that front flange. What I can say is the following:
Before I knew anything about these units I bought a 1450. The local JD dealer took it in on trade, rebuilt the engine (had hole burnt in piston) and painted it up. Looked and ran really good, and came with 50A deck and 42 blade, for 1/4 the price of a new JD unit and about 1/2 a new Simplicity.
Used it for about a year and started hearing a noise that sounded like rod knock. Got louder as you throttled up of course. Took off the side panels and listened. It just didn't sound like it was really internal to the engine but just couldn't figure what it was.
Since I knew nothing about garden tractors I called the CC dealer, loaded it up and took it to him. Got him to listen to the noise and asked if he knew off hand what it was. He agreed it had rod knock noise but just didn't sound like it was actually in the engine. I told him to call me once he figured out the problem. Supposed to be couple weeks.
2 weeks go by and I call him. He hadn't had time to check it yet. Called him the following week. Told me it was all fixed up and was $275. I said what happened to calling me before you fixed it? He said wasn't much to fix it - the 4 bolts holding the flange were loose and he had to replace them. I said $275 for 4 bolts???? He said "Yup", price includes the bolts and labor.
I paid it and picked it up. Decided I better get to learning about these units so I didn't have to pay $275 for 4 bolts anymore. Rest is pretty much history.
Sorry my symptoms don't sound like yours - but it wouldn't surprise me if it's something in your drive line connections that's come loose. I don't recall if all the 1450s use that same flange connector set up over the 6 year production run. I'm pretty certain you're gonna have to pull the engine to check it all out.
Before I knew anything about these units I bought a 1450. The local JD dealer took it in on trade, rebuilt the engine (had hole burnt in piston) and painted it up. Looked and ran really good, and came with 50A deck and 42 blade, for 1/4 the price of a new JD unit and about 1/2 a new Simplicity.
Used it for about a year and started hearing a noise that sounded like rod knock. Got louder as you throttled up of course. Took off the side panels and listened. It just didn't sound like it was really internal to the engine but just couldn't figure what it was.
Since I knew nothing about garden tractors I called the CC dealer, loaded it up and took it to him. Got him to listen to the noise and asked if he knew off hand what it was. He agreed it had rod knock noise but just didn't sound like it was actually in the engine. I told him to call me once he figured out the problem. Supposed to be couple weeks.
2 weeks go by and I call him. He hadn't had time to check it yet. Called him the following week. Told me it was all fixed up and was $275. I said what happened to calling me before you fixed it? He said wasn't much to fix it - the 4 bolts holding the flange were loose and he had to replace them. I said $275 for 4 bolts???? He said "Yup", price includes the bolts and labor.
I paid it and picked it up. Decided I better get to learning about these units so I didn't have to pay $275 for 4 bolts anymore. Rest is pretty much history.
Sorry my symptoms don't sound like yours - but it wouldn't surprise me if it's something in your drive line connections that's come loose. I don't recall if all the 1450s use that same flange connector set up over the 6 year production run. I'm pretty certain you're gonna have to pull the engine to check it all out.
mgwin
Well-known member
