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Archive through August 10, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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G. Lee Turney,

Does it have spark when you crank it over when its hot?
Put on a glove, remove a sparkplug and see if it's making fire...

Do you have another coil that you know is good that you can switch it with?

Do you have access to an Ohm meter?
If you do, you could test your coil to see if the primary and secondary windings are working properly.

Keep us posted on your progress.
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Ryan W
 
Ok what can I do about vapor lock? I do not have spare coil.I have an ohm meter and I will try that later today thanks lee
 
I`am back,lol. After a 4 day trip with the 5th wheel I came home to get some cub time in and 149 had a dead battery. I charged it and its dead again
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. Will have to buy another soon that will be 6 this year.I do have the new 1 here for the 129 and will need it next week. So hows your week Frank C ?? Where would i look for a current draw??? Reg ? later Don T
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Kenneth, very nice job on those rims! Well done saving them for another 40 or so years.
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Michael S., nice score on the 4 digit Original. Any photos to share?

Mike M., I have a few questions for you: Did you open up the rear of the 125 to drain the Hy-Tran (<FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> brand hydrostatic fluid) out as outlined in the FAQ? Did you install a new filter? Was it a proper filter designed for a hydrostatic system and NOT a "will fit" oil filter? What fluid did you use in the 125? As for a gear drive Cub Cadet you should use Hy-Tran hydrostatic fluid, yes even in a gear drive Cub Cadet.
 
kraig yes I used Hy trains and No I just pulled the plug and stud her up. the filter is a cub filter but I don't no if it is an oil fitter or Hy trans. I did not no there was a difference. But i did order a rear cover gasket to day. so I will clean it out. Before I start panting.
what Would that explain it rolling easier.
 
hello all just got a cub 127 but need help in finding out what year the thing is any help would be great
 
Hi John if you go to the FAQs page you will find what you are looking for. I also find the identification page helpful.
 
Richard p, sorry i havnt gotten on the computer lately. I can not find any way to dissasemble to amp meter to adjust it. If it bothers you i guess you can put another one in, otherwise i dont know what to tell ya. Sorry
 
I started striping and priming my Cozy Cab yesterday between t-storms. I am going to paint it and stripe it to match the 1450. Have any of you found any alternatives to IH 935 white, anything that's a close match ?
 
Josh Ott,

My DSL is crap in a storm. Can't stay connected. I'm just going to replace the amp meter.

I see that I need to notch the transmission case cover for a spring assist. But what about the rear frame cover? Right now I've just left out the lower left bolt. Who has BTDT with a narrow frame?
 
Richard...You shouldn't have to notch the case, do you have a pic of the area ? As for the frame cover it isn't used with the 3pt on.
 
Brendan Brigham,
Richard...You shouldn't have to notch the case, do you have a pic of the area ? As for the frame cover it isn't used with the 3pt on.

Not the case. The case cover. Which is not on in this picture because it doesn't go on without being notched.

I'm thinking people must just run their tractors without them on. But I'm sure the dealers would have installed them.

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Matt, I too prefer mechanical things to electrics. I have saved several starters in my time by fitting a new brass/bronze bushing. I believe fosfor bronze is the prefered material as it is porous and can be saturated with oil. If you have access to a lathe or someone who can turn you a new bushing to fit the worn shaft, you may still have a working starter/generator, provided, the field coils have not been damaged.
 
Ok I see which parts you are using, I have the other style assist. I wasn't thinking about the frame cover as you have installed. I agree with the transmission cover, not many are still on. The frame cover didn't interfere with the other assist I had on a 102.
 
Richard, yes you will either have to leave that filler panel off or notch it for the spring assist.

Here's a photo of a 71/72 with the filler panel in place.

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Front PTO clutch on 102 - help needed!!

I am presently disassembling a very neglected 1967, probably only one of a few here in South Africa, hoping to eventually bring it back to life. I have been saturating the three holes with penetrating oil but cannot see anything resembling the three set screws (or their lock set screws) holding the clutch to the bearing on the crankshaft. What size Allen key normally fits here (illustration 2.54 on page 2-41 of the service manual)?

I have so far managed to take out a reasonably healthy looking set screw closer to the pulley, which I assume, holds the pulley to the shaft. From what I can gather, there must be a second set screw in the pulley collar. If I can remove these two, will the clucth not come off the crankshaft together with the pulley?

The pressure spring and throw-out levers are rusted but I do not wish to destroy anything that can still be used.

Any help or advice will be appreciated.

Dawid
 
Brendan Brigham and Mr.Kraig McConaughey,

Thanks. I'm not sure what I'm going to do. Notching the transmission cover for the bolt is not that big of a deal. The rear frame cover wants to mount flush. And the bracket for the spring assist is about a 1/4" thick so it wants to push the cover out just enough to not fit.

I might run it without the panels. Maybe that's better than cutting one and trying to bend the other.
 
Matt:
The preferred bushing material has a trade name of "oilite", which is sintered bronze impregnated with oil, not phosphor bronze, which is fairly hard and without oil impregnation might not perform all that well. If the bushing end of your S/G is actually chewed up as Matt G. suggested, the last bushing put in may have been brass, but not made of the proper material for the speed and load of the S/G..
 
Richard...I may have an extra tranny cover you can have if you want one to cut up.
 
Brendan Brigham,
Thanks for the offer. I have a nice cone shaped abrasive cutter I can use on mine if I go that route. But If you have a good amp meter you are willing to part with.. email me from my profile. I'm in 43608
 

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