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Archive through August 09, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Snapped some pics on vacation this guy has it bad for IH.
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<font color="ff6000">I forgot to hit enter between pics</font>
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<font color="ff6000">I forgot to hit enter between pics</font>
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<font color="119911">I've been a member long enough, I should know better...</font>
 
Just to add a few question and info to this oil plug debate. The new oil plugs for the 1X8,9 and newer are straight thread with the sealing ring on them. Models 1X6,7 and older use the 3/8" pipe plug. I just looked it up on the cute little boxes above. Isn't the 1X8,9 series about the time they changed to aluminum oil pans? They all call for the same oil pan now but which style is serviced? I know I had a oil plug on my 129 that the hex was all stripped round. I put a pipe plug in it one oil change and could never stop it from weeping oil. I finally bought the correct oil plug and it hasn't leaked since.
 
Dennis,
That M is kind of rare with that tricycle front and I don't see a belt pulley behind the starter.
 
WES - Yep, and the belly pump & lights are gone....it's a Puller. Seat supports look like about a '39 to '41 vintage. Clean looking old M.
 
Help, I own a 1976 1200. The clutch release lever has so much play that I cannot tighten the adjusting nut enough even with a 1/2 inch spacer to get close to 9/32 inch between the pedal arm and pedal stop. The clutch still works and doesn't slip but has much more play than 9/32. I did a lot of moldboard plowing and york raking this summer. At one point the clutch got very stiff before I remembered to relube the throw-out bearing. Before all of the pulling work I could get 9/32. I doubt anything other than the drive disc has ever been replaced. I read someone's posting from July that said the whole clutch (pressure plate, etc) could be replaced for $125. My dealer said it would cost much more. Any ideas on which part might tighten up the clutch the most? I am not a mechanic or machinist.
 
Anyone, I am beginning to restore my 1975 1450. I see on this website that IH 483 Federal Yellow and IH 935 (white) are the original colors. My dealer said that they sell "Cadet Yellow" and "Cadet White." Does anyone know whether these colors match the original? Also, the paint #s listed above mean nothing to Sherwin Williams. Are there other #s Sherwin Williams can cross reference?
 
Christian K.
We've got some great sponsors listed above that will be more than happy to talk to you via land line and fix you right up.
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Christian, perhaps Sherwin Williams can cross to DuPont, PPG or Martin Seymour (NAPA?) PAINT CODES.
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Or better yet check with one of our sponsors, they should be used to that question.
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My solution to the older cub paint formula was ACE hardware. They have a good line of oil based machinery paints. My local store also has a laser to read an existing color and reproduce it. I took a good example of the yellow on an air cleaner from my 126. The laser reader only required a 1/4 inch area to copy. I was able to buy a gallon of yellow mixed to match for less than $30, and the formula is on their computer for the next gallon.
 
Hi folks,I thought i would share a picture I took today as I am getting ready to go to a local car show this weekend. I have waited a long time for this to happen and I want to thank you all for this site which has got me through a lot of cub questions over the years.
Here is a picture of my 61 Original parked in the back of my 61 Scout 80,both first years of production, both rolled of assembly lines within 4 months of each other.
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The Cub has had a great summer travelling to Brooks Oregon,Coerde a Lane Idaho & Lynden wa. for some Ih shows & been a thrill to play on.
 
Don B: My friend Frank, now retired from IH/NAVISTAR and who began his career at a North Texas IH Dealership in the late '50s, tells the story of how IH made all the territory salesmen call on each dealer with a new Scout with a Cub Cadet Original "shoehorned" into the back. Your picture recaptures that 1961 reality and is a replay of history...I can't do justice to his story, but he laughs at recalling the distress the sales force exhibited at having to roam around the southwest US in the summer of 1961 in an unairconditioned Scout with a CCO in the rear....

Myron B
 
Don B. - What? - they didn't design the 80 to completely fit an Original in the back with the tailgate closed? Looks like the Scout guys weren't talking to the Cub guys. Seriously though, those are two great looking pieces of equipment! More pics please!
 
Hi all, I’ve been off line for 18 months, just caught up with posts. Its been a
fascinating read so far. Seems some important parts are going NLA hopefully an
enterprising individual will start to make copies as they do over here for home
produced tractors.
My 100 is still going and I have plans to make a sleeve hitch for the plough I got
a while ago.

Robin across the pond
 
Thanks guys,
Myron thats a very cool story, thanks for sharing it.
Mike I actually didn't think it was gonna fit but as Myron said shoehorned it in is acurate. The rear lugs are up against the bulkhead & the frnt tires are on the deck but pertrude out so the tailgate won't close.It has been secured from a few places as I don't want it to escape.The show is only a mile from where I live & the roads are flat, can't imagine taking it very far like it is. I will get some more pics at the show and post em.
Here was our display at the show in Idaho
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The belt cover on my 44A deck snugged up tight against the deck and caused a rust problem if it got wet. I will do the Roland B. holes over the winter but for now,,,,,, to help, I spaced the cover up a thick washer's worth to keep from having metal to metal contact. I got the cover cleaned and primed. Any words of wisdom on this slight mod?
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nice cub day 4-digit original,100 with rear pto and creeper plus lots more 2-trips


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