Denny...as we discussed...it's always something with an "O"...while mowing today...the muffler assy fell off..right out of the block...one good thing though...when we spend money on our Cubs...it's money well spent....
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Archive through August 08, 2012
- Thread starter fcurrier
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Rick A - I had another color tractor with a B&S engine on it. It had an aluminum block and someone screwed a piece of heavy iron pipe into the exhaust and put a muffler on the end of it - heavy. The B&S engine vibrated like crazy and one day when I was mowing, the whole exhaust fell off the engine to the ground. I almost ran over it!!! I was able to find a flange mounted muffler and fix it right - right before I sold it.
IHCC content...
The muffler on my 109 has a hole in it from rust, but otherwise seems to work/suppress the noise fine.
At what point to you folks punt and replace the muffler on your Cub Cadets? My biggest fear with the 109 muffler is damaging the elbow-ish fitting coming out of the block to the muffler. I can see where 39 years of rust and heat might have me a really tight connection to the block and muffler.
IHCC content...
The muffler on my 109 has a hole in it from rust, but otherwise seems to work/suppress the noise fine.
At what point to you folks punt and replace the muffler on your Cub Cadets? My biggest fear with the 109 muffler is damaging the elbow-ish fitting coming out of the block to the muffler. I can see where 39 years of rust and heat might have me a really tight connection to the block and muffler.
RICK - Yep, sometimes you have to dig pretty deep to get the parts you need to fix Cubbies right, guess I'm still smarting over $170 for the new waterpump bearing and both halves of the housing I needed for the 50C deck... to replace a spindle that still mowed, but scalped a half a blade's width of grass. And that was over two years ago.
But when they are well maintained, they are up to ANY reasonable task. I mowed Sunday afternoon, SIX hours of mowing plus 10-15 minutes of warm-up and cool down before & after mowing so ran 6-1/2 hours. The 72 didn't miss a beat ALL afternoon. As long as I remember to turn the gas on it starts on the 2nd or 3rd revolution every time. Be nice if I had a faster mowing gear, the 19T 2nd is too fast to mow with in my yard, so I mow in 1st, gives me more seat time which has been in short supply this summer, Sunday was the first time I'd mowed in 54 days.
But when they are well maintained, they are up to ANY reasonable task. I mowed Sunday afternoon, SIX hours of mowing plus 10-15 minutes of warm-up and cool down before & after mowing so ran 6-1/2 hours. The 72 didn't miss a beat ALL afternoon. As long as I remember to turn the gas on it starts on the 2nd or 3rd revolution every time. Be nice if I had a faster mowing gear, the 19T 2nd is too fast to mow with in my yard, so I mow in 1st, gives me more seat time which has been in short supply this summer, Sunday was the first time I'd mowed in 54 days.
mconway
Well-known member
Bill J I have a 109 and I had the end cap split away from the stock muffler. i took it off, wire wheeled it and brazed the end cap back on. Been good for about 8 years and no problems.
BILL - I wouldn't worry too much about the exhaust elbow. I think everybody ends up with one or two sitting around eventually.
Far as the hole in your muffler, probably be a good idea to replace it. The hole lets hot exhaust gas out in places it shouldn't, not harmful to the muffler but possibly to other parts like the gas tank, S/G, PTO clutch, wire harness, etc.
Far as the hole in your muffler, probably be a good idea to replace it. The hole lets hot exhaust gas out in places it shouldn't, not harmful to the muffler but possibly to other parts like the gas tank, S/G, PTO clutch, wire harness, etc.
hydroharry
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Charlie - I don't often get a chance to reply to your posts, but thanks for your info on the QL vibration. I think it's good info and good suggestions.
Bill J - quick answer to your quick question - removing a 10hp from a 109 is last resort and only if absolutely necessary. (I got tired of pinching my fingers trying to remove the front engine to frame mount bolts in the axle channel). I'm most agreeable with Donnie T (surprisingly), that removing 4 bolts holding the cast iron grill housing to the tractor frame is much easier better way to go, and then the hood and everything is out of the way so you have access to 3 sides.
Bill J - quick answer to your quick question - removing a 10hp from a 109 is last resort and only if absolutely necessary. (I got tired of pinching my fingers trying to remove the front engine to frame mount bolts in the axle channel). I'm most agreeable with Donnie T (surprisingly), that removing 4 bolts holding the cast iron grill housing to the tractor frame is much easier better way to go, and then the hood and everything is out of the way so you have access to 3 sides.
Rick A
Don't leave the spindle bolts loose. From the mower Operators Manual (read it all) QUOTE:
"COG BELT TIGHTENER
The distance between the spindles has been factory set so that the cog belt should be properly tensioned when installed. The cog belt is made of special stretch resistant material that should not require tightening under normal operations.
If for any reason the cog belt requires adjustment, remove the four cap screws holding the LEFT spindle bearing housing and rotate the housing clockwise (to tighten)and reinstall the bolts. This should be done in one-eighth turn increments to avoid overtightening the belt. If the adjustment obtainable with the left spindle bearing housing is insufficient, additional adjustment is obtainable by rotating the RIGHT spindle bearing housing counterclockwise. This housing must be turned in one-quarter turn increments.
If the cog belt rides to the top of the cog pulleys and rubs on the top flange of the left pulley, it indicates that the belt is too tight. Reverse the above instructions to loosen the belt." END QUOTE.
The mount holes in the spindle housings are an equal distance from each other, but are not all the same distance from the center of the spindle, so as the housing is rotated it moves the spindles closer together or further apart.
Don't leave the spindle bolts loose. From the mower Operators Manual (read it all) QUOTE:
"COG BELT TIGHTENER
The distance between the spindles has been factory set so that the cog belt should be properly tensioned when installed. The cog belt is made of special stretch resistant material that should not require tightening under normal operations.
If for any reason the cog belt requires adjustment, remove the four cap screws holding the LEFT spindle bearing housing and rotate the housing clockwise (to tighten)and reinstall the bolts. This should be done in one-eighth turn increments to avoid overtightening the belt. If the adjustment obtainable with the left spindle bearing housing is insufficient, additional adjustment is obtainable by rotating the RIGHT spindle bearing housing counterclockwise. This housing must be turned in one-quarter turn increments.
If the cog belt rides to the top of the cog pulleys and rubs on the top flange of the left pulley, it indicates that the belt is too tight. Reverse the above instructions to loosen the belt." END QUOTE.
The mount holes in the spindle housings are an equal distance from each other, but are not all the same distance from the center of the spindle, so as the housing is rotated it moves the spindles closer together or further apart.
Paul B...as usual you are a plethora of rock solid info...I know you are at least an Assistant Professor to Mr. Chabot...you might have reached full tenure by now..
..thanks for taking the time to make sure I did it right....I really appreciate it...I only loosened the cap screw nuts and the mechanism shifted just a fraction and I tightened it back...mowed today and everything seems fine...I saw that in the manual and was careful not to do too much...
What a treasured asset you, Denny and Steve B and a few others are here....we always get the right info...carefully explained and always a sincere desire to help.
Thanks again !!
What a treasured asset you, Denny and Steve B and a few others are here....we always get the right info...carefully explained and always a sincere desire to help.
Thanks again !!
