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Archive through August 08, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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DON - Another good reason for running the belt just a little loose is so the timing belt doesn't break if you hit something with one of the blades, it lets the teeth slip a tooth or two. The blades may get out of perfect time occasionally but you need to check them anyhow.

That was the #1 reason Dad traded his '63 Original for the 70 in '65, second broken timing belt, and back then they were $22.
 
Denny....how in the world would you or could you poop on me by answering a question..
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....granted I assumed the timed deck was a dead give away
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Oh well,...you do have me stumped kinda....how do you turn around the timed belt...the pulley's are fixed to the spindles...the belt has no tensioner that I see....the drive belt does have a sliding assy that could be adjusted.....

Oh well, the life and trials of owning an Original...I've got two I'll trade for a decent hydro.
 
Dennis Frisk

Denny ,I did learn something from this site and my 61 O. I do enjoy your long posts with
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Don`t ever stop.
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Hey...It was Don doing the pooping...not Denny....sorry to both of you....
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Rick Albert

When you ask a question .always tell for what application it is for. Some of us read every post and try to remember the info, just in case we might need it some day. On this you should have a look at the manual , because I think the spindle can be adjusted. And the cogged belt can be flipped end for end. just saying.
 
Don...I usually define my requests....just tired today from re-installing the clutch on the "O" today among other sundry duties.

Did check the manual and the website...

Sorry I asked the question.....thanks for defining the proper procedures for the site and for mentioning to RTFM.....
 
Rick Albert

Yep we all get days like that, but I know the 70 and the 100 did have a timed deck also .

(Sorry I asked the question.....thanks for defining the proper procedures for the site and for mentioning to RTFM.....)

I said that because I`am typing with 2 two fingers , I`am to old to type all the correct info and it is just easier to say (have you read the manual)and I do know you would be talking the pto (clutch)on the deck because the Original uses a pulley on the end of the crank.I stand corrected and only try to help if I can.
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There Denny I think I have broke this . Well I did not mean to !
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Engine removal - quick question.

I need to get a 4th oil pan bolt into the 10 hp engine on the 109 and also need to get better access to the PTO (vs. in frame on the tractor) so I can remove/adjust it.

I see pics/posts where you folks remove your engine from your Cub Cadets and my question is -

Do you view removing engine as major surgery and rarely pull it or water off a ducks back and jerk it out as often as necessary - easy as removing the mowing deck.

I realize the 82 series and QL tractors might take a bit more effort, but this 109 engine set-up looks pretty simple and I'm thinking, unless there is a stuck bolt, it ought to be a drop dead simple thing to remove the engine - frequently if necessary.
 
Bill, I'm puttin' in my note now 'cause I got here quick. Others will tell you how, but remember that engine weighs about 125# ! It ain't a push mower engine...no hernias or broken backs here please !
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Bill Jamison

four bolts and the grill will not be in your way. You can then remove the four oil pan bolts that go through the frame and slide the engine ahead to disconnect the drive shaft.btdt
 
I am seriously thinking about building a dedicated wide frame cub cadet tractor for mowing only.I have about all the parts laying around in the way. My question to all the experts is, do yuou see a downside to useing a 301 engine with 321 flywheel . I am thinking it might run cooler in the summer than useing the 301 flywheel. Do you think the governor will respond fast enough to keep it from bogging down in heavy grass? I will be useing a 44C deck with a 44A speed up pulley.( Because that is spare decks i already have.)
 
Bill I see engine removal on my 1x9 as easy,4 bolts, disconnect the wiring to coil and s/g, and gas line/throttle and choke.
its a bit heavy like Don said but in reallity its pretty simple
 
what other models can the dash be swapped on to a cub cadet 102??

i know the 122 obviously, what about 71 ? 70? etc?

also can i put a frame braket for a the seat mount form a 72 on to the 102? or is the tunne height different?


thansk
 
Chris "R",
Don't hold me to it but I'm pretty sure the 71 is different than the 102-122. I'm also thinking the 70-71 are the same.
 
Kraig and Dennis,

Thanks for your kind remarks on engine balance. A 50% RBF (Reciprocating Balance Factor) does make a significant reduction in single-cylinder transmitted vibration versus the stock 27% RBF as factory supplied in the larger K-series engines (K301 through K341). When the engine is balance gear equipped, this RBF is approximately 50% but engine reliability suffers, as we're all aware. The Counterweight Plate that I offer yields a 50% RBF without the potential of total engine destruction that failing balance gears can cause. Your engines are balanced using this Counterweight Plate technology.

As an aside, the Quietline specifications for 1800 rpm low idle speed were for battery charging considerations only. These tractors are actually smoother at a 900 rpm idle when using the original, soft durometer Iso-mounts.
 
Chris R
Only the dash from a 102, 122, 123 will fit the 102, and the 123 dash will have a hole for the hydro speed control lever. The tunnel height is different on the 72 and 1x2. The 70, 71,72,73 and 100 all had a low tunnel frame.
 
LUTHER - The DONOR flywheel, blower housing & back plate for my small flywheel K321 was the K301 in my old 129. The most noticable difference was how fast the K321 would accelerate, gain RPM under load.

The K301 however went from a nice running 12 HP which would gain RPM normally, to being a slug. It still made 12 HP but when trying to gain RPM it struggled. Can't say as I noticed any difference in cooling, but I did run the tractor a lot on some hot days before I sold it. Once the engine was running at the desired RPM it held RPM well up to the limit of the HP the engine was capable of making.

I don't think I'd make the swap on a K241, they're short stroke, not a lot of low RPM torque, and like to run faster than the K301/321, but there's no problem running the larger diameter flywheel on a K301. I ran a 44A deck with that tractor a LOT. It only took about 20-30 minutes longer to mow my yard with it, 129/44A deck than with my 982/50C deck, plus used less gas.

RICK A. - Been WAY too many years since I was around the timed decks, but isn't there some way you can slide the toothed pulleys closer together? Maybe just loosen the four bolts that attach each spindle to the deck and slide them closer to allow some loosness in the timing belt? You're only looking for maybe 1/16th inch closer together on the two pulleys.

There also may be some deformation of the deck around the spindle mounting surfaces which is tipping the spindles towards or away from each other on the top side of the deck. I've seen that on every other CC deck I've ever worked on. When a fast spinning blade hits an immovable object it does more than put a ding in the edge of the blade.
 
Paul Bell

thanks unfortuanatly that is what i was thinking

i have a unique idea in my head and have most of a 102 to do this project
except a dash and a steering column
ii alo wanted to convert it to a pan seat ( i guess i could modify the bracket off of a 100 style and add some metal in to it )
 
Denny...thanks for offering help...I did just today loosen the bolts that hold the drive setup ....and it seems to be working...mowed pretty good too...BTW....it was the front roll pin in the clutch....luckily I had a clutch tool to make that easier.

Again, thanks for taking the time to try to help...it's better that a WAG ...and RTFM....
 

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