Archive through August 08, 2005

[jclayton]

Richard C.
Thanks for the help. I bought the tractor this spring, so I don't have much history for it. The deck turns free. The pto is black, the clearence between the driving disc and the driven disc is less than .060 so I will need to get some shims, I will get a new belt also, put it back together and see what happens.

 

[ehall]

Here a picture of my model 71, and the front blade with what I believe is a wide subframe. Unfortunatly I think I need the narrow frame.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ed, yes that is a wide frame blade subframe, and yes, you need the narrow frame subframe to mount to your narrow frame 71. There are 2 variants of narrow frame subframe either will work on your 71, one is the bolt on version for the non Quick Attach narrow frames (models 70, 100, 71, 102, 122 and 123) it has narrow uprights at the front of the subframe that bolt to the frame. The other is the narrow frame QA version for the narrow frame QA tractors (Models 72, 104, 105, 124, 125, 73, 106, 107, 126, 127 and 147) it has wide uprights at the front of the subframe with unward facing pins welded onto it however this version was designed to work on either of the narrow frame styles and has holes for bolting onto your 71.

The above photo is the bolt on version mounted onto a 70.

The above photo is the QA version mounted onto a 100, note the wider mounting uprights.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ed,

The above is the bolt on narrow frame subframe.

The above is the QA narrow frame subframe.

 

[rchristensen]

Jim Clayton
If your Cub dealer can't get the shim kit for you check with Scott Madsen, I have gotten them from him before.

Sometimes the pulleys on the mower decks get worn pretty bad or I have found somone put on the wrong pulley. Loop the belt around the pulley and it should ride near the outside of the pulley just about flush, if it is way in it is worn bad or the wrong size pulley.

 

[ehall]

Boy, your paint is nice. It makes me want to paint mine. This looks like I need to remove the front lower bracket that holds the PTO belt tensioner pulleys in order to mount a front blade.

<font color="ff0000">Not quite a poof, more of a "piff"...</font>

 

[sblunier]

Shanen,

They will stall out after 10-15 min. on low feuld delivery because 1) the engine under load uses more fuel than just futzing around and 2) when using more fuel it takes time for the engine to "out drink" the fuel system...slowly you pull the down the level of fuel in the float bowl until it dies.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ed, none of the pictured blades are mine they are from posting here over the years. Note my tag line: "Keeper of the Photos" )

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ed, yes and no on the removal of the mule drive setup. If you get the bolt on version with the narrow uprights you can use the mule drive brackets to bolt the subframe onto. You will have to remove the mower deck subframe from the mule drive brackets though. Also you may have to remove the tension and idler pulleys, perhaps Steve B. will comment on this as this is his tractor. Oh Steve....

 

[ehall]

Ok another question. On the deck lifting lever, the picture shows a bracket that appeares to be clamped the the lifting lever and pivoting on the foot rest support. the blade lifting strut is attached to this bracket. Am i seeing this corectly? I do not have this bracket and will may have to fabricate one.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ed, yep, you'll need one of those brackets too. I bet if you check with Travis at CC Specialties, see the link above that he'll have one.

 

[ehall]

Thanks for the diagram.

 

[dschmidt]

Ed Hall, email me. I had the same problem you are having with the narrow subframe and can help you. Dave

 

[sblunier]

Kraig,

Idler pulleys can stay, just pull the front rod fto remove the rear portion of the subframe.

 

[rnajecki]

Dave,

Nice Tru Power AT's. I'm thinking of getting the same for my 149. Anyone heard about a tire brand called "D-Stone"? Any good? The D-Stones are 6-ply and cost less than the 4 ply Tru Power AT's.

Thanks,
Roy

 

[bbaker]

Hey guys, I have been lurking for a while, and not posted much.

I have collected about 5 of these little yellow tractors, and love every one of them. All of them wideframes.

I have been using a 129 around the house, and it does a great job. But the stearing box is a little loose. I also parted out a 1650 a while back, and kept the stearing box out of that tractor. I want to rebuild the 1650 box, and put it in the 129 so I won't have any down time with the 129. Are the two boxes the same? ie lengthetc??

Also when doing the rebuild like suggested on the FAQ page where do I get one of the thrust washers mentioned? Also what brand and model number are they?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

 

[dbellamy]

I'm haveing some trouble getting a rim off the front of my 147,I've been blasting it for a week & it moved a 1/4 inch today, I have limitted tools. Is there an good method of jacking up one side or something to make it more ridgid for hitting with a BFH. I did get the steering wheel off by method in FAQ,that worked slick Thanks

 

[cfischer]

I got my carb rebuild kit in the mail today from Brian. Anyone got any advice for me. I downloaded and printed off the fuel system portion of the kohler engine service manual, I should be ok, but this is the first time I've ever worked on a carburator...

Chuck

 

[rbedell]

Bryan B:

The trust bearing is available from any Bearing Outlet or Retailer. See attached:

 

[till]

Has anyone heard from Wyatt since April?? He seems to have dropped off the face of the earth. He get arrested for mowing naked??