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Archive through August 08, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Kevin L. - on Friday you inquired about 149 vs reds (682/782). I've got two 149's (one with a quiet kit) and a 782. The 782 is definately quieter, less shaky, more comfortable, and what I use to mow the 1 acre lawn. I use the 149's for brute work, like brush cutting, running through the woods over brambles and saplings, and hauling stuff around the property. I think of the 782 as a sedan and the 149 as a pickup truck. So my advice is to get one of each.
 
ED- You don't use the underside deck craddle for
mounting a front blade. Bolts/attaches to front.
Remove the cradle and it can be figured out. However, the 3-4 page manual is good to have around also.
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Ed, there are several different subframes that mount to the different versions of Cub Cadet frames. Your 71 has a narrow frame non-QA (non-Quick Attach) frame. It sounds like, from your description, that the blade subframe you have is for a wide frame QA (Quick Attach) mounting. If the welded on pins faced inward it would be for a narrow frame with QA mounts. Your best bet would be to find someone with a narrow frame bolt on blade subframe that is looking for a wideframe subframe and do a swap. Or you'll have to modify the subframe you have.
 
Ed, after reading your post and some of the responses it sounds like your 71 might have the mower deck "mule drive" still mounted to the front of the frame. If that is the case, the "mule drive" would have to be removed before the dozer blade can be mounted. Any chance you could post a couple of photos showing your 71 and the blade and subframe so we can properly diagnose your situation?
 
Hey guys i know i have been out of the loop for a while but i think i'm back to stay. Being that i'll be living in a dorm for the next couple months i may have time to get back on the computer. I just wanted to share with you some pictures of my latest 2 projects one being near completion and the other not having been touched yet.
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Tom-

That is funny that you say that, I almost posted that but didn't want to make Matt mad.
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Just looking at the 1456 Gold Demo pic again.....Wouldn't a 123 painted red with a gold hood and fenders (fender only, not seat base) look sharp???!!! About the same styling, and you could get the gold hood/fenders idea incorporated. 123 would be especially significant considering IH used the Gold Demos to heavily promote the Hydro tractors.


....not that I'm going to go do a 123 just to have as a Gold Demo.....but somebody out there might want to!!!!!!
 
I was rebuilding a tractor but had to stop due to the monsoons. Not used to the double digit humidity, I use a roll of paper towels every day and still can't keep my glasses clean. Not good painting weather.

I decided I needed another mower deck and a little sweat won't hurt that. Went through my stash of old decks and found a 44A that can be rebuilt. Looks like I may need to replace the blades. I would like to meet the guy that mowed with this deck.

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I was checking several of these triangle metal plates and found no two are alike. The bolt holes and the center holes move around quite a bit. I would have thought that the process of punching them out would have been more exact.

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Tom-Tyler No offense taken and yes the tractors are the project of the month much much much easier to understand than the female ;)
 
ZZZzzzzzzz

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Update on the 149.... . torn apart due to the two leftside bolts that hold the rear to the frame broke off. Sooooo, might as well tear it all the way down and repaint. Needs new axle seals, and a freshened up engine... I'll try to post some pics...
 

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I found some pictures of a wide frame front blade sub-frame and I do indeed have a wide frame front blade sub-frame and a narrow frame model 71 tractor. I will take pictures this evening and post them tomorrow. I think I can make a little adapter to mount the wide frame sub-frame to my narrow frame.
 
ZZZZZzzzz

Ed,
you should be able to 'trade up' to a correct subframe from one of our sponsors, or look in the swap/wanted area..
 
Ed, good to hear you have comfirmed that it's a wide frame subframe.

These photos are in response to Craig C's query across the street.

Brian and Mary Sturgill regarding their 127 Prototype:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

The SN is # 295080. It has an external brake rear end and the correct grill for a 127.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

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I have a problem and I hope someone will help.
I went thru a hydro for my 169. Put all new seals in it. I oiled every thing good,turned the unit over and poured fluid into the pump.I installed the complete unit in the frame but did not fill it with fluid at that time. Due to a medical problem,the thing sat there for about a year. I have now finished restoring the engine and am about ready to fire it up. (This is a complete restration)
I am a little afraid to fire the enging up without first getting some fluid up to the top end. The thing has been in dry storage but the charge pump is probably dry.
How can I get some fluid to the pump. Should I remove the Dump valves--remove the test plug or what. The Hydro was in great shape and I will do any thing to prevent damage on start-up. If I had completed the job just after i installed the seals,I'm sure it would have been fine. I thought about standing the tractor on its nose for a few hours. I can do that with my farm tractor and lift boom.
If there is an easy way--please help. Email direct if you like. Thanks for any help
Ben
 
Got my new tires mounted and operational. These are Carlisle Tru Power AT's, 23-10.50-12's. I like the look and traction should be greatly improved. Will be testing them out at a local quarter scale pull in a few weeks.
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Ben,

Jack up the rear end about 18" and let the oil soak into the filter. Then pull the check valves and prime the top end with hytran (a piston pump oil can works great). That should be enough oil to get the charge pump going. If it doesn't move the hyd lift cylinder after 15-30 seconds of running stop and repeat.
 
Dave,

Nice, good luck at the pull!!!
 

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