Archive through August 07, 2014

[digger]

Since there's nothing else going on here, I thought I would just as well fill some pot holes in the shop floor, and put the only running Cub I own to work, LOL

Some of them are 6 to 7" deep!

 

[jgreer]

Kraig, Scott, and Don
I have looked all over the 122 trying to find any holes that will line up, and haven't found any. The brackets do measure 4 5/8" x 4 5/8" x 4" and the hole I.D. is roughly 3/8". It is rumored that he had a back fill blade for the 122, which I am yet to find, and that he did pull with it locally. I don't see where they would go on a back fill blade and they could be weight brackets, but where they would mount is beyond me.

 

[kostendorf]

David, I found one for $35 plus shipping (ouch)but still way cheaper than buying parts. All I have to do is bend the brackets straight. Parts tree says the brackets I need are #6 $52 and #7 $197. Those NOS parts are going to collect dust till they can't find them anymore.

 

[aschumacher]

Charlie, that isn't the new floor for your new building is it !? Is it an old floor from previous bldg that suffered heat from the fire then winter freezing?

 

[dschwandt]

Way Ta go Kieth!!
Shouldn't be too hard.
Good Luck!!

 

[rgreenly]

Hello all...Looking for suggestions and opinions. My 122 has just about lost it's clutch(ground/trans). After years and years of use pretty much everything is wore out, broken springs, disc, pins, bearings, pin holes in shaft and possibly the 3 pin driver. So I need to replace everything from front to back. My question is this...looking for opinions on what to replace it all with? All stock parts? Any stronger parts? I mostly mow with it, but not beyond hooking to anything from time to time that I need to move or drag. I'm open to any and all suggestions. Thanks for your input in advance.

 

[bwittman]

Snow blower question. I am going to look at a snow blower that, in the ad, says it is adjustable. In the case that the tag is not on the machine, is there any way to tell how that adjustable mount should look?

The ad says it was mounted on a 127, and I need a wide frame mount. What should I be looking for on this machine?

 

[dfrisk]

RON - As a "Worker tractor", I would not stray too far from stock on your 122's clutch. There are some things that are better in the aftermarket or puller parts.

The billet clutch pressure plates are a nice thing to have, but there's really nothing wrong with a resurfaced set of old OEM plates either. Just like a cylinder head, they can be resurfaced on a sheet of wet/dry sandpaper on a plate of glass with WD-40 sprayed on the paper. The new stock pressure spring and friction disk are fine too IMO. The one thing that pays to upgrade is the driveshaft on any tractor 10 HP or higher. There's a "pre-hardened 4140 alloy steel" driveshaft that's available for about the same price as the un-hardened 1018 steel shaft that's the ONLY way to go. It really extends the life of the rear roll pin at the very back of the driveshaft where the driveshaft pins to the coupler right in front of the reduction housing.

I'd also replace the throw-out bearing, anti-rattle springs, and teaser spring. I doubt there's anything wrong with your 3-pin driver. I'd look over the release lever and the pivot bracket that bolts to the frt lower side of the steering console, make sure the holes the 3/8" dia. pin attaches the two parts are not worn excessively and there's no unusual wear where the lever contacts the T/O bearing.

You might want to replace all the 1/4" dia roll pins in the driveshaft too. 4-5 total if I remember them all, depends on if you use the movable clamp-on rear pressure spring stop.

 

[rgreenly]

Dennis...Thanks for the info! You mentioned the "Pre-hardened steel drive shaft"..are they available for the short version for use with the creeper drive unit? Also, where would I find/purchase them? I know my pivot bracket and release bracket are worn along with all pins. I'm trying to find the part # of the disc that I have now because it has a steel plate molded in the middle of the disc and it held up for a long time, guessing at least 400 hrs.

 

[dfrisk]

RON - There may be other suppliers, but Midwest SuperCub makes most of their own parts. Especially drive shafts. They can make the driveshaft the correct length for your 122 w/creeper.

The friction plate with the steel between the two friction material rings is the new style OEM disk. The first one I saw that way was 25 yrs ago. I agree, they do hold up MUCH better than the older version with no steel sheet.

A tip when you install your new clutch. I normally unbolt the engine and slide it forward to remove/install the clutch. When you get ready to slide the engine back into place with the new clutch installed, slide all three of the anti-rattle springs onto the roll pins on the 3-pin driver, then slide the engine into place and bolt it down with all four bolts. Then pull each leg of the three springs up and over the edge of the friction disk. I've Never lost an anti-rattle spring that way.... and if you install them "outside" the friction disk, they'll all be gone after the first few seconds of 3600 rpm.