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Archive through August 07, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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hydroharry

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Jul 22, 2007
Messages
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displayname
Harry Bursell
hmmmmm - can't hardly believe what I'm seeing. Is it an illusion? Could I be wrong?

Is the picture Charlie posted of the Xtreme Motor Works rear cover plate with site glass and drain plug, for an "off topic" CCC unit???
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got tired of the 128 sitting around, so I decided to see if it would run...yanked the battery and key from my 107, put some gas in...and hit it once with ether...
thing fired right up and ran great..i need to reroute the fuel line because it interferes with the throttle..and it needs an air filter and muffler..but I'm happy it runs

another issue to tinker with now is the fact that it won't move..rear is locking into gear fine..i believe the clutch is not grabbing..gotta do some reading/look at some diagrams and such because I have never had a gear drive cub before
 
Dan, if the clutch works to its full range, I'm going to bet on it being a sheared drive pin.

Don't read. Just poke your head down there and look at the clutch. Put it in neutral and let out the clutch. If it turns the drive shaft, it's at least grabbing the clutch.

Next put it in gear and let out the clutch, if its still turning the shaft, it's a drive pin.
 
Jeff/Kraig/Wyatt/Charlie-
Thanks for posting up the sight-glass info. That's neat stuff!
 
Dan: The hardest part of fixing a sheared drive pin is getting the old pin out (but breaking it makes it easier). If the pin is broken there is often a reason why it broke aside from age and general wear-and-tear. Be sure to address any "play" you find in the drive train.

It also makes a difference if the pin breaks at the transmission or at the engine. I think the drive coupling at the engine on your 106 is the same as the slotted coupling on my 149 and my son's 125, since the 106 falls between the 104/125 and the 108/149. Even though the old pin and coupling might have lasted years, the new pin in the old coupling often doesn't last 10 minutes. Worse, a new pin in a new (expensive) coupling often falls out just as fast. I'm told it will even eat its way through a stainless steel clamp intended to hold it in place.

Long story short, consider upgrading your driveline to the so-called "rag joint" as found in the Quiet Lines and 82 Series tractors. It isn't perfect either, but there aren't any pins to fall out (the Spirol pins for the couplings can still shear, though).

If the rear pin is broken, then I would just try replacing it, but, again, be sure to check for play. The QL and 82 Series employed swivel bearings at either end of the drive shaft, and some implementations even had a ball bearing at the rear (I'm thinking it was in the QL era, probably doesn't apply to your 106).

Parts Lookup for the 106 Model is not especially helpful on this point, that is, the drive shaft connections. Unless I'm missing something, there doesn't seem to be any "pin" detail on either the clutch, the engine, or the transmission assemblies. Perhaps there is more detail on some of the other Models in the same series, or one of our sponsors could enlighten you. Someone may turn up with all the answers and colored pictures with arrows and circles.
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I'm betting (with Nic) that it is the drive pin at the front. Based on my experience, if new parts (beyond the pin) are needed, I would give serious consideration to the QL/82 driveline setup, it has fewer problems.

Note: I am indebted to forum member Paul Bell (in previous discussions) for this insight and solution. Thanks, Paul. Hope you're doing well (or at least better than Bryan!
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JEREMIAH, NIC - My best guess is that the broken roll pin will be the front pin on the rear coupler of the driveshaft. The back hole on the driveshaft wearing oblong hurts due to hammering on the pin. The ONLY place where one pin drives the whole tractor. The back pin on the coupler normally doesn't fail because it goes thru the hardened pinion shaft which doesn't wear.
 
I have a what is it question someone here can hopefully help me with.
My 122 was a gift to me from my great grandpa when I was younger. Unfortunately he recently passed away, so we have been sorting through his tools and stuff in his garage. We found a few cc parts that go with my 122, and these two pieces were with them. I'm assuming from the cc yellow paint that these are for a cc, but what they are I have no clue. Any help on an i.d. for them is appreciated
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I pulled the covers and started it...it's the clutch i believe...driveshaft is solid but the clutch isn't grabbing
 
Jacob,
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so i'll
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Jacob, do any of the holes in those brackets(?) match up with holes on the 122? About how big are they?
 
could they be a mount for a loader, perhaps attaching to the foot rests?
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Jacob Greer , Kraig

Those brackets got me thinking they might be weight hanging bracket for the rear end of the Cub. will the holes match up with the rear end bolts ??? they are drilled for two rods to hold suitcase weights .
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For the record, I meant to check the rear drive pin. Cause the shaft wouldn't turn if its the front pin.

But it looks like it a throw out bearing issue. Maybe it's stuck to the shaft and won't allow the plates to engage. That happens when sitting a long time.
 
I don't think they will fit the rear end, how big are they ?
pictures are decieving in size.
 
I want to install a #1 tiller on my 1650 but my mule drive is for a 44c deck with the angled pulley. Has anyone used an idler pulley in the center of the tractor to true up the belt path or do I have to find a different mule drive?
 
Kieth, Id just find another mule drive and straighten out the brackets/hangers the pullys are on.

When I built my tiller mule drive/weight box I didn't know any different and angled them and they have been going strong now for 2 years.

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