Archive through August 07, 2008

[kmcconaughey]

Allen, yep, church. No painting today, I did get some Cub parts painted yesterday though. Was going to do some reassembly on the Original yesterday but I'm gonna have to order some more hardware first. I thought I could reuse some Spirol pins but they are not as good as I thought. I'm headed out to the farm in a few minutes to finish up the food plots and check the trail cameras.

 

[rchristensen]

Todd H. IH built a lot of good LGT's in their day, but evidently you never owned a 140.

Richard T. After all the work on the mower deck you should have done the Roland B. mod with the holes so you could have kept it clean.

 

[bnolte]

To all that looked at the picture:

My thoughts exactly, I wonder if he is from the same mold as the guys trying to sell rusted out Camaros without the drivetrains for $10G on Ebay.

Lewis,

I'd check the fuel pump for a torn diaphragm, or a float valve stuck open on the carburetor. Either malfunction could let gas work its way into the engine. I'm not sure it's related to the pushrod not moving, unless the sour gas gummed it up. Might be worth seeing if the push rod can be freed up, then you can see if you have a bad ignition lobe on the camshaft. The sour gas could cause other problems inside the engine, depending if the engine ran with the gas in there, and how long it sat.

If the push rod can be freed up and the ignition lobe is okay, then it might be worth dealing with the fuel system problems. You might consider dumping some Risoline to get rid of the rest of the varnish, or perhaps flushing the engine with lacquer thinner to get rid of the crud, or you'll be dealing with stuck rings and other problems.

 

[mgonitzke]

Here's something that's got me baffled. When I built my 582 about a year and a half ago, I bought a throwout bearing from CC for it that basically was some sort of angular contact bearing mounted to a steel bushing that had a grease fitting. This worked fine with my cobbled-together clutch release arm. Now that I have the correct part, this throwout bearing is too large in diameter and rubs on the left side of the inside of the release arm. It's about 3/16" or so larger than the throwout bearing used in the 70/100 thru at least the 1x8 as far as I can tell. Now when I got to parts lookup, the throwout bearing listed for the 582 is now the same as the one for all the older tractors. Here's what the parts lookup says about the throwout bearing in the 582 clutch breakdown:

"(Replaces IH-106386-C91 by also ordering IH-126445-C1)"

I'm going to order the IH-391237-R91 throwout bearing. Is this going to be the correct setup? I'm not sure why the number for the throwout bearing changed, and why the first one I bought was different. I wonder if CC changed suppliers and then changed back because the part was incorrect?

Just found the reciept from when I bought the parts last spring. That shows the 703-0600 as being the throwout bearing, and parts lookup's "checkout" function confirms this. This contradicts the parts diagram. What exactly is going on here? I'm getting rather confused...

 

[kdortch]

Hi Brian Johnson – Okay, I'll try pounding the "snot" out of the pin in question. The problem I have, however, is that the pin has fallen down to the bottom side of the rockshaft making it very difficult to pound all the way up from the bottom to the other side of the shaft. I would rather get to it from the top side if I could or can. I'll try soaking the pin in PB Blaster for awhile first. I'll look into that suction gun you mentioned for replacing tran. fluid as well.

Scott Tanner – Thank you as well for responding. I'll try replacing the pin in question first then if things don't work out I'll weld the lift arm to the rockshaft.

Richard Christensen – Although this may put me near the top of the poop list on this forum and for that reason I wasn't going to say anything about your line up of "best Lawn Tractors ever built", but I'll have to agree with you with regards to the 140. I was actually surprised to see you include the 140.

Jim Thompson – Regarding that 140, if you owned a 140 and sold it maybe instead of kicking yourself you could have someone (and I don't mean some girly man either) take 7 or 8 real good whacks with a 6 foot long 2x4 to your be-hind while you lay face down on the ground. By lying on the ground gravity has a greater effect on the velocity of the 2x4 towards the intended target, moreover, by you laying on the ground you won't have the opportunity to move forward and absorb any of the strike. I'm sure there isn't any status of limitations on something of this matter so go ahead and find that 2x4 and get this over with.

Richard Tunison – Yes, your 129 looks every bit as great as others have noted. Hard work does pay off – right? Too bad you have to get rid of the M. Deck that unit looks great as well. You did mask off the SN plate on that deck right? Looks as though you didn't from the picture. I'm sure you did, that was a stupid question on my part.

Kenneth

 

[mkreek]

Richard Christensen - How do you mow the grass with that much water on the ground?

 

[theaton]

Richard C., ya got me... still dont plan on owning any green ones. But to each there own!

only round here.

 

[dsauve]

Can anybody tell me if the drive shafts from a non creeper narrow frame fit a wide frame. The po of my 129-2 drilled a new hole in the coupler at the motor, the other day it broke off the end of the drive shaft and tossed the pin.

 

[mjrobilotta]

i think any cub can pull a truck loaded with junk.
i had to my 100 today to pull an 89 f350 dump truck full of rock since my brothers dang neighbor keeps messin with his stuff and drained the battery. right after we moved i found the jumper cables. it was kinda funny cause i saw the neighbor watchin us and when we got it started she got a real funny look on her face.

 

[jmburge]

Hey guys I'm getting ready to paint my original cub. The problem I'm running in to is color choice. Do to the fact that I live way out in the sticks, I have a limited choice of paint colors. The local hardware only has three shades of yellow. Catapilar yellow, school bus yellow and antquie John deere yellow. I have to have the tractor ready for a show in about two weeks and don't have the time to drive the miles to a paint shop to have the right stuff mixed. I'm not trying to win any prizes with it, but I don't want to be laughed at either. Any thoughts on witch shade is closer? I'm thinking about going with the antquie john deere as that seams closest to the right color, don't worry as this paint is only temparary until I have the time and money for the right paint. Also I just got a timed mower deck for the original that hasn't been used in a while, every thing looks ok. Any sugetions on what to check out before I power it up?