Archive through August 06, 2012

[jbaker]

Charlie you could not of said it better

Kirk that a nice find in the 982

Jimmy Mac don't appoligize for questions and time,, that why the fine owner of this forum keeps it online...

Don H hang in there someone will help you soon..

 

[fcurrier]

Donald H.: First guess - overheating, either from grass, mouse nest, etc. in the engine shrouding or a bad head gasket.

 

[jbaker]

Frank I wanted to say that but I have had a run of bad diagnosis lately

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don H., those symptoms could also point to a failing condenser or less likely a failing coil. Be sure to check the simple stuff first like the overheating causes that Frank mentioned. The carb adjustment that Clark mentioned would be an easy to test item as well.

 

[thoffman]

Don "H",
Sound's like it's looking for fuel.

Jimmy Mac,
The drawing you have posted is the correct way.

 

[nbartee]

Brian W.,

I've got the same problem.When I bought my 1450 from my neighbor, he said it vibrated excessively. He said he installed new iso mounts but didn't help. I just dismissed it at the time because I figured he had not installed them properly. I completely went thru the engine and found out it didn't have the balance gears either, welded the cradle and installed the mounts. It vibrates like a vibrating machine!!! In order to get it to halfway smooth out I have to idle it at 2000 rpm!. Can't stand it!

I gotta tell ya, if that's the way quietlines are, you can have 'em. This will be the last one I'll own. It's twins from now on!

 

[ksharpe]

Jeff and Kraig - thanks for the reply and the “moral support” to help defend my purchase with my CFO!
I knew I would not be on the same page with the CFO based the cash I took out of the savings account and not being able to mow when I got home - ha, it’s too late now! (price paid not shared as it seems to be frowned upon her, I don’t mind to tell ya’ll what I paid – let me know if it’s OK to share this information). I feel pretty good about my budget to get it running right, as I walked away from the purchase with some cash left in my pocket – don’t tell my CFO- ha.
I’m very glad I gave it a bath before I got home. It was a “barn fresh” find, covered in dust and grime but it cleaned up vey nicely, but the CFO is very visual, if you know what I mean. I saw through the grime to the inherent strength and capability of this machine. Based on my research and shopping around, I could not touch a comparable machine with the accessories I got for the money I spent = good deal.
I am very excited about my find, my first “real” garden tractor. Generally I think it’s in great shape considering it’s age. The issue now is my time and effort it’s going to take to get it functioning (cutting grass) ASAP.
I’m formulating my plan of attack to get it up to it’s true potential. I have got quite a bit of work ahead of me to make it all fully functional again.
Fix the hydro leak, replacement gaskets, filter, and refill with Hy-tran, pretty straight forward (I hope) but = $$$. Potentially include rebuild of the relief valves while it’s apart, more $$$.
Resolve the drive shaft vibration / run out issue(s) before bearing damage occurs (hope it’s not too late).
Additional cleaning of things, I have not yet removed the heat shields, do so and clean fins. I noticed the fly wheel / fan blades are packed w/ grass and junk that will need to be cleaned out = time.
Perform maintenance / tune up on engine and carburetor (plugs, points, condenser, filter, oil, carb. Rebuild kit etc.) = $$$. I am missing the front heat shield which incorporates proper mounting of the side shields (currently a bungee cord is pulling them together on the front end). How critical is this for cooling? Where can I get the missing heat shield? Anybody got one to spare?
The rear tires are new, still have” tits” on them all around, fronts need to be replaced soon, cracked / weather checked, but holding air for now.
Get the 60” deck ready to mow, straighten out rear gage wheel mounting flange and replace wheel(s). Replace the air / grass flow metal. The rust / paint flaking won’t prevent mowing but won’t preserve / allow years of use.
As soon as that all taken care of I intend to put the 982 to work for the foreseeable future. I have several acres to mow and several landscaping projects that it should be able to help me out with additional accessories; dozer / snow blade is first priority, three point hitch next would be next. POT would be a bonus!
I’m looking for priority adjustments/ suggestions with my plan.
Ideally I will be able to get the yard erosion, ruts, bumps, and slopes under control with this machine. Then get a ZTR to mow and then start the restoration on it.

 

[hydroharry]

Brian W - sorry I've been gone a few days. I had really hoped your vibration would be better but it sounds as tho it really hasn't changed. I wouldn't worry about the balance gears in a 12hp engine. I believe there is a method to determine if you have them based on the Kohler Engine Spec no. shown on the shroud, but even if you do have them if you remove them you increase the vibration issue. I suppose pulling the engine and checking the flywheel for broken fins is a possibility if the vibration is really that severe. I still like Marlin's idea of some break in on the ISO's. If I understand the cradle idea correctly it was to help lessen the vibration and lengthen the life of the ISO mounts. The cradle conbines the ISOs so that the right side has to obsorb some of the power torque to the left side. I've installed a cradle on a 1650, used original ISOs for the lower mounts and new NAPA ISOs for the uppers and thought it had less vibration. My son did it to another 1650 and 1450 with the same experiences - meaning it really seemed better or less vibration with all 3 units. The 14 and 16hp engines certainly are known to have more vibration issue than a 12hp so I'm really stumped with your excessive vibration. I didn't expect you could idle at less than about 1500 rpm's or it would really start to shake back and forth - as an example if you turn the rpms down to about 800-1000 you can probably sit on the tractor and see the engine swinging side to side - and if you don't have the optional seat belt on you are probably holding the steering wheel and don't have time to recover to a straight up position before you're pulled to the left again. So, all I can suggest is give the ISOs at least an hour of run time to break in, experiment with the torque on nuts holding the ISO mounts. If this doesn't improve things, then begin a search from some good used original ISOmounts complete with the original metal supports. You need to find at least 4 good ones and use them on the lower positions. I would suggest you don't change them unless you can find at least 4 (I wouldn't mix 3 old style and 1 new). Maybe you can even find 8 good ones. As long as you have to pull the engine to change the ISOs I would go ahead and pull the flywheel shroud to check for broken fins on the flywheel. I guess the other worst case is to find some softer aftermarket ISOs compared to the ones you are currently using. It's a common aftermarket auto part, and several companies make them and if I recall correctly, others on here have indicated they are all a little different rubber stiffness. Also, I really don't think you'll have a drive shaft issue significant enough to cause vibration unless something is really off - but I would check the rag joints to make sure they aren't torn or loose. Othewise, I can only say I've had a 1200 and a 1250 and really felt they were alot smoother running than the 1450 and especially the 1650, so if you can't sit reasonably on the tractor with the engine running at 1500 rpms without real shaking then something just isn't right. YOu should also be able to sit on the tractor with the engine at full throttle, 3600 rpms, and feel vibration in the steering wheel but you should hardly see the tractor shake and shouldn't really feel it in the seat. Good luck resolving this, and please keep us informed.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Brian W. Is there any way that you can get your Cub Cadet to Charlie's place and have him take a look at it? You're only eighty-three miles from him and if you are that dead serious that it is the isomounts and want your tractor fixed then it would be worth the trip. As for the lack of balance gears. The Keepsake 1650 never had them to begin with so rule that thought out. And NO... we aren't tired of trying to help you solve your concern. That is what we are here for. p.s. I see that you're a Transportation Specialist so getting to Charlie's place shouldn't be a big deal.

Norm B. and Brian W. If you both were closer then I'd come and take a look at your tractors. Neither one of you have stated exactly how much break-in time you've given the isomounts. The more information that one can provide then the eaiser things are to solve a problem.

I'm writing this at work and before we start our shift. Everyone be safe and Happy Cubbing to everyone.

 

[mpatterson]

Nice find on the 982..errr. 782...no, 982 Kirk! Heck its a GREAT SCORE! You will love it!