Archive through August 06, 2012

[dfrisk]

DON - I don't know what you're using for a sand blaster, THAT makes a huge difference. I use the 40# pressure blaster from Harbor Freight, same unit that Eastwood sells. My Porter-Cable 7-1/2 hp 80 gal 2-stage compressor is rated for 25-26 CFM @ 175 PSI and when I blast it will catch up and shut off, but I am exceeding it's 50% duty cycle. I set a fan up by the motor/compressor to help dissipate heat. When I use a new blasting nozzle the compressor runs about 50% of the time, but as the nozzle wears is when I need the extra cooling.

Rule of thumb I was told, is that a 1/8th inch hole passes 15 CFM of air at 90 PSI. With both compressors running you'd have 18 CFM. I can see why you couldn't blast long with one compressor, I'd keep both if you're going to blast a lot.

SON got a deal on a compressor a month ago. He bought a 1964 vintage QUINCY compressor off his local CraigsList. 80 gal tank, was supposed to be a 5 HP, but it's really a BIG 3 HP 220V motor, pulls 20A, and a 5 HP pulls 22A. The compressor needs some work on the unloader, and $100 worth of parts, but the compressor seems to run great and makes about 17 CFM @ 175 PSI, 100% duty cycle. It makes about 1/3 the racket the Porter-Cable contractors oiless compressor I loaned him makes, and makes over 3 times the air. If you're not familiar with Quincy compressors, they use pressurized oil to lube the internals, some of their compressors even have oil filters. The model that SON's compressor is was built from about 1946 until 2006 with several revisions during that time. His local compressor shop and still get about ANY part he needs. And it costs a WHOLE lot LESS to rebuild than a Kohler engine. The compressor was originally bought for use at the BIG truck stop along Interstate 80 in my home town. It was used there for 30 yrs, then used for 15 yrs at a body shop.

 

[jmacdonald]

Sorry to take up so much time on the forum, about something that would be so simple, and straightforward to most of you here.

The model 70 shifter repair came out good. I primed and painted knowing it would be scratched reassembling the spring area. Will clean that up after it's complete.
There are two O rings #6 and #19. I installed #6 under the lower spring reatiner, but installing the top #19 doesn't make any sense as it wouldn't do anything.
I installed the spring retainers as they were when I disassembled. I have the shoulders of the reatiners going into the spring.(drawing 3)if I install the last O ring on top of the retainer and under the pin as in photo 2, it doesn't do anything.

If I turn the retainers around they would not engage the spring properly, and the top O ring still would not be necessary.

P.S. although the spring was difficult to work with before, after removal and cleaning it now allows reinsertion of the pin easily.

 

[fcurrier]

James:

Methinks the spring goes under the cap? We had an H that sat outside and always got water in the transmission. I figured it followed the shift lever in. This pic isn't that good, but it came from Parts Lookup.

 

[digger]

I thought I would share this from a miffed forum applicant that was denied because of his User Name choice.

Jerry wrote:
WHY, WHY HAVE ALL THIS PASSWORD CRAP TO LOOK AT ISSUES RELATING TO LAWNMOWERS,
IS THIS GOING TO CHANGE THW WORLD, TOP SECRET CUB CADET WIRING PROBLEMS, MOWER
BLADES, WHEELS, ECT.

Come on, let the people converse and stap making this such a big deal.

Jerry D

My reply,

Actually if we told you, we would have to get approval from the CIA first and then the IRS since it's also covered under the new obama care package.
So we'll have to let it stay a secret! Sorry

Charlie

 

[fcurrier]

Kinda like "I could tell ya but then I'd have to kill ya."??

 

[bwittman]

I am still trying to understand this annoying vibration in my 1250 nightmare. I imagine, and I apologize, to all those who are as annoyed with my posting my frustration here with it. I know this has been discussed ad nausium with me. In advance, I once again thank every one of you who have endured this with me, and have shared your ideas and tips. They all have been appreciated and either considered or tried.

Today's question asks if there are balance gears in an AQS engine? I have been told that Kohler took out the balance gears at some point and that was, at least part of, the reason for the Quietline engine cradle. My machinist thinks the vibration was caused by him, when he welded the support bar in the engine cradle.

I have checked the drive shaft with a dial gauge, and have found it to be quite true. Perhaps it was thrown out of balance somewhat when I glued the hydro fan to the drive shaft with black silicone, to get it to stay in place.

I have checked everything else, readjusted the carburetor and tried different thread settings on the motor mounts with no success.

I would like to cut in my headlights, but am afraid that the sealed beams will vibrate out of their mountings, or the filaments will break from vibration.

I may just have to live with this, but it still doesn't seem to be correct. I enjoy having a Cub Cadet, but never thought it would present such a challenge.

 

[sblunier]

Denny,

Steven III is 11-1/2 years old......he was only about 2-1/2 months old at PD#1......now that says something about how long we've been plowing around here too!!!!!!

 

[fcurrier]

Brian: The last time I had an engine that vibrated that bad there were cooling fins broken off the flywheel. Did someone already mention that??

 

[jmacdonald]

Thanks Frank, but that drawing same as the TC-133 drawing has misled me also the way it's shown. The part 3* is actually underneath the the entire housing assembly. I do think your correct about water travelling dwon the shaft into the transmission. I suspect that's what the O rings are for maybe the top O ring funtion is to impeed water?

 

[kmcconaughey]

James, not sure you need the O-Rings. The Original didn't use them. Here's the exploded view from a parts manual for the Original and a cross-section view from the 70/100 service manual. I believe the O-Rings go between the spring and the retainers even though that's not where the Parts Lookup places them in the drawing..

 

[jmacdonald]

Thanks Kraig. It might be that the previous owner (long ago)had this apart as the retainers on mine are turned upside down to the drawings. Like you it's hard to imagine why the O rings between the reatiners and spring. This and a little touch up paint are that is left to put the shifter back in the tractor.

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE B. - Thanks for the update on Steven III.

Sure wish I had a VCR that worked so I could watch my PD #1 video again.

People driving by thought we were crazy, and they didn't even know how far some of us drove to get there! Sure was fun!

 

[kmcconaughey]

James, the retainers are shown upside down in the exploded view. They should be as shown in the cross-section drawing.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny, you could always update that PD1 VHS tape to a DVD.

 

[jdiederichs]

Any members near Moorhead, MN that could maybe help Brian out with his 1250 vibration dilemma? Sometimes all it takes is a quick look-see and something will stand out as the cause.

Far as Quiet line vibration, I agree that a broken flywheel fin or 3 could be a likely cause, like Frank said. I do not recall if all the AQS engines did/did not have balance gears, does anyone remember?

Have you tried it with the driveshaft etc. removed? Isolate the engine and see if it is still present? New iso-mounts? try backing off the fastener torque so there is more "cushion"

 

[dhylton]

My IH Cub Cadet 1200 is cutting out at high throttle, back firing sometimes and running very rough. This started all of a sudden after mowing for about an hour. Any suggestions?

 

[cmiracle]

Donald, try adjusting the high-speed mix screw as per the operators manual.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Brian W. About your engine vibration and your frustration. I've a question for you. How man HOURS usage have you've given the machine to actually break in those isomounts? One isn't generally enough. It takes a little time or maybe and I am not being silly with this your body is just way too sensitive to sit on anything that vibrates more than just a teeny bit. Next question.... Do you have any kids that could drive the tractor around for say fifteen or so minutes at a time and then shut the engine off? Or do you know of any good strippers that would like to take a "ride on the wild side"?

Once again... WELCOME to all the new members!!!

 

[ksharpe]

Hey again gang! Well after a long drive I managed to get a look at a miss tagged 982 (782 hood and decal). It started right up and did not smoke at all. The engine didn’t sound like it was quite running right (seller previously indicated it needed carb work) and it was vibrating a bit. The hydro lever needed to be ~1/3 of the way in reverse to sit still. It ran well enough to go for a spin around, hydro seems to function well, no creep or surge. Started checking the underside and found 30+ years of nastiness so I was impossible to tell if it was leaking any oil or from where, no visible drips. I went with the assumption there was a leak somewhere to have generated all the black sludge on the insides / underside. The lift cylinder smoothly swept through the motions. Then I discovered the rear end was bleeding, a drip at a time off the bottom.

So on the attachments, 2 50” CCC decks, a 60” deck (194-374-100 Haban?), and a what I think is a 48” single stage snow blower (193-353-1?0, the tag has a big scratch right through the next to last digit).

One of the 50” has a terminal case of deck rust, spindles are free. The other 50” has a large crack up the left side and has been modified with front gage wheels attached with some very ugly welding. These spindles spin quite nicely though. The 60” is solid with only a couple of issues, the left gage wheel is toast and one of it’s brackets is bent quite a bit. I must have been hit pretty hard to bend it that much. The air / grass guide (not sure what it’s called, the vertical sheet metal in an arc behind the blades) is missing o the right side and dented in on the left). It’s got quite a bit of surface rust / flaking paint. The blower was arguably the best piece in the pile. I was easily able to turn the pulley by hand and got it spinning pretty good. Only minor surface rust on it, it is missing the chute turning rod (cable turn system).

So I beat the seller up pretty good on his asking price, in the end we agreed on the price and loaded it all up. Off on a long drive home. I stopped at the car wash and gave it the first real cleaning it’s had in many years. So this is what it all looks like what do ya’ll think?

I have only had a little time to mess with it after trying to catch up on missing a day at home and unloading all of it. I adjusted the hydro lever linkage back to neutral, need to adjust the return to neutral pedal linkage next. The rear is still leaking pretty good, I think my cork gasket is shot as it is not leaking out of the release valve. I noticed the drive shaft is vibrating / oscillating / running out a lot. This is the rear flex joint, the front looks similar, should there be two disks in each joint?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kirk, looks like that 982 is in very good condition! The Parts Lookup states quantity 4 of the flexible discs.