• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through August 04, 2015

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

cmiracle

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
121
displayname
Clark Miracle
Sidney, I run my 1200 on 30w oil down in Texas to keep it from smoking- mine will burn lighter-weight oil if its over 90 degrees outside, but then again that's the only weather I seem to mow in.
cool.gif


Now that I think about it, the coldest I've ever ran my cubs was during a Christmas parade at a bone-chilling 35 degrees, lol. Go with a lighter weight like the guys up north that get to push snow, the 30w recomendation is for my temps, I bet
 

Attachments

  • cool.gif
    cool.gif
    451 bytes
Recently I asked about an axle set up that was an improvement to the factory design. After a little time staring at my last attempt I came up with another brainstorm.
I drilled 3/4" holes in stub axles deep enough to accept the factory spindle. Now I will weld it and assemble the axle.
That's all I really wanted to accomplish. The stock wheel bearings just won't stay in the wheels anymore.
298366.jpg

298367.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 298367.jpg
    298367.jpg
    42 KB
  • 298366.jpg
    298366.jpg
    49.3 KB
HELP
I am looking for ideas that might be causing my problem. My k301 on my 129 will run for a while then it will start to shake and vibrate then stop. If I bring it down to an idle it will keep running but if I increase the RPMS it will do the same. Does anyone have thoughts what will cause an engine to do that? I am thinking ignition or fuel. I put in a carb kit, replaced the high speed needle, old one was plugged, (removed the seat, it looked OK just cleaned it did not replace it). I have electronic points but I tried my old points with no change. I have had engines that don't start, miss, and no power but never one that shakes like this. If I understood what causes this it might be easier to figure out what the problem is
Any help appreciated
Earl
 
my first thought was balance gears
err.gif
 

Attachments

  • err.gif
    err.gif
    251 bytes
I have a 44c deck and need a belt. Shopping on line I have come up with two different sizes for the same number belt. Which one is correct.

Cub Cadet 954-3004
BELT-V 1/2 X 77.1"

Cub Cadet Super Heavy Duty Kevlar Aramid V-Belt
954-3004 1/2" x 78"
 
Keith O.
Depending on who made the belt, it could vary from 1/2x77" to 1/2x77 1/2"

Don't believe everything you read on Amazon. LOL
 
Thanks Charlie, Think I'll go for the real cc belt. And the muffler I got from you is nice and quiet and built good too. Way better than the old one.
 
Otto, interesting setup! Thanks for posting it.
happy.gif
Please post more photos when you get it completed.
thumbsup.gif
 

Attachments

  • happy.gif
    happy.gif
    879 bytes
  • thumbsup.gif
    thumbsup.gif
    150 bytes
Earl my bad. Thank you for correcting me. Guess I was having a senior moment.
 
Steve,
Thanks for the loader diagram and info on the relief valve.
I am moving a little slow these days because I just found out I have a broken vertebrae in my lower back. Still mobile, just have to be cautious.

I was able to speak with a nice gentleman at Kwik-way and he told me the specs for the pump. Additionally he told me that all of the parts (pump, relief valve, and cylinders) use standard size items regarding the O-rings and other replaceable internal parts. He said any good hydraulic parts center should have the parts I would need to do a rebuild.

While I am working on the loader I plan on changing the fluid from ATF to hydraulic and add a filter on it. I am not sure if I should be using a suction filter or a return filter. These will be steps 2 & 3, step 1 is to make it function again.

Thanks, Rich W.
 
Just a teaser photo to get you over to the Pulling board... this thing is wild. And it's driven by a 6 yr old girl.

298391.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 298391.jpg
    298391.jpg
    25.7 KB
Rich W.

Suction (Pump inlet) and return filters both have +/- attributes.

Suction filters when they get "full" of debris can starve the pump of oil. They obviously filter the oil that enters the system from the reservoir, this is always a good thing. A filter mount housing that has an outlet gauge port (AKA pump inlet) for a vac/pressure gauge is good practice.


Return line filters obviously have zero risk of starving the pump and should have an inlet pressure gauge on the filter mount. I would at lease place an pump inlet strainer between the reservoir and pump. This could be a Y type strainer 100-200 mesh. This would catch particles the size of flour or larger. Again good practice to have a vac/pressure gauge between this and the pump inlet.

Pump manufacturers have specs on acceptable operation limits.

I don't recommend a strainer inside the reservoir.

I would lean toward a return filter and pump inlet strainer setup.

Jim
 
Kraig,

It doesn't measure up to machinist quality but function over fashion works here. Next set I do will have less off set from the axle. It takes a while to set up on my lathe so I wasn't going to cut and drill again. And it makes no difference except for looks.
298409.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 298409.jpg
    298409.jpg
    48.6 KB
Otto C.
Good idea, but the only thing that worries me is adding that extra length to the axle only increase the shear load and they might be prone to snapping.
But then again, they might outlast us all, LOL
 
Nic, Charlie,

They both look super nice from here, but I gotta agree with Charlie!
drool.gif
err.gif
 

Attachments

  • drool.gif
    drool.gif
    2.6 KB
  • err.gif
    err.gif
    251 bytes
Good evening everyone, it has taken a year to get to where I had time to work on my cubs. After installing a new engine in my 1650 last May, I just got it running this week. Lots of family issues pulled me from the tractor barn, but I think things have quieted down for now. I do have one problem with the 1650 that I have not run into before. The throttle lever will not stay in place, wants to drift to idle rather quickly. The lever on my older Cubs have a bolt and nut that you can adjust the tension so they stay in place, on the Q/L’s I have they all have rivets with no way to adjust. Any suggestions?

298414.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 298414.jpg
    298414.jpg
    60.5 KB

Latest posts

Back
Top