Archive through August 03, 2012

[jmacdonald]

Tom thanks. I got the pin out as best I could. I slowly tapped the spring over the spring retainer in photo 1 to get access to the pin. Don't now how I'll get it back on with ruining any new paint? After cleaning the cup up a little I found a hair line crack. Hope to find a welder soon. Thanks again.

 

[wslombo]

James I would recommend to just prime it apart and paint it after its back together

 

[thoffman]

Jimmy Mac,
Clean it all up put it together....<u>and then</u> paint and prime it. The spring doesn't really more and wont mess up the paint job.

 

[jmacdonald]

Now that things are looking better (already had the shifter mig welded). I wanted to ask that question about my shifter forks before I start to close this area up. I am not sure what they should look like, but it just seemed that they looked bent. If they are bent is there an easy way to put them back the way they should be?
I was wondering about tapping them in place with a hammer, although I don't expect them to move very easily. Any thoughts.

Also the corrosion in this area how would you clean this up?

 

[thoffman]

Jimmy Mac,
I'm not sure if they are bent or not. They may be opened like that so it shifts better. If they are bent I'd get in there with a "Vice-Grip".

 

[jgrabner]

I attempted the feat listed in cubfaq about adjusting the governor, the cross shaft was freely turning counter-clockwise for quite a few turns. I ran the engine and attempted again, still with the same results. The engine starts and runs, but if you throttle up it has a hesitation and sputters a bit then ramps up to speed. Any thoughts?

 

[mgonitzke]

Bill J.-

Solid mounting of an engine in a QL is not the same as the earlier models...you are comparing apples to oranges. In all previous models, the engine bolts directly to the frame, which is pretty rigid. If solid-mounting a QL engine, the engine is mounted to the mount rails which are connected to the solid mounts which connect to the frame. This is far less rigid than mounting the engine directly to the frame, which is likely why a QL with solid mounts likely vibrates a lot more than any other similar tractor.

 

[kmcconaughey]

James, here's a view of how the shifting forks should look. Not the location, but the way they are bent. Be VERY careful if you try to bend them. A Vice-Grip would be a good choice to use as Tom mentions as you can preset the amount that they will close.

 

[dtanner]

Joe Grabner

If the governor now works as it should under load give the carb a little richer mixture. You might be running a little lean and that could cause a stumble when you throttle up.Under power and moving the tractor could work different and I would set it up working with a load and not free running. Under load is what you need and should work for in your adjustments. My 149 will make a small stumble when moving if I go to wot till the governor catches up.But will go from a flat surface to a hill and the governor will work as the load increases. I love the sound of the stack on the 149 when the governor takes charge.

 

[aschumacher]

Joe G., " the cross shaft was freely turning counter-clockwise for quite a few turns". Joe I'm far from an expert here, and maybe others read past your statement, but it's my understanding that the shaft is attached to some sort of plate inside the engine. I don't think it should turn freely.
Others may now reconsider your problem and come up with new thoughts.