Archive through August 03, 2012

[wsdrake]

Hello Joe G., welcome!

Hope you enjoy it here, i do.
Qucik question: i'm wondering how to adjust the float on my carburetor. I think it's letting in too much gas, causing my stalling and stumbling plus fowling out my spark plug. Thanks for your help!

 

[drglinski]

After some decent rain, my grass is actually growing again, warranting a cut (finally.) I got my mower deck back yesterday from my mechanic welder as it needed stiffening around the guide wheel bracket.

I got to some thicker higher grass and the mower started struggling. It slowed significantly. The engine did not skip a beat. I know that the clutch was not slipping because it was rebuilt in April by the same mechanic that welded up the mower deck.

I suspect the drive belt to the deck. I have ensured it was tight-- the belt that the PO gave me when I bought it back in April is a green sunlite and I'm thinking that's the culprit. I'm betting I need a CNH belt for it to work correctly.

Is a "Cub Cadet" belt as good as a CNH? I've used CNH before so I'm familiar with those, but unsure of the quality between the two. I think I need part # PN/ IH-473462-R4. Correct?

Apart from that, it mowed great!

 

[aschumacher]

Billy D. Welcome. Look here at Matt Gs' special web site. He is a great help to everyone here and shares his info with a great 'how to' collection.

 

[wsdrake]

Thanks Allen, I appreciate it

 

[bjamison]

Harry B - I think you can buy solid spacers for the AQS engines in place of the rubber mounts to keep the spacing the same and the drive shaft properly in line.

Right now my 1650 has no mounts as the engine is still on the bench...

So many tractors - so little time ...

 

[digger]

Bill J.
Go buy some solid mounts and use them in your everyday tractor and come back and tell us how long it took for you to break out your oil pan!

If your going to use it as a pulling tractor, go for it!
30 to 45 minutes tops in a season of pulling they will do fine for ya.

 

[dfrisk]

DAN G. A CC belt "Should" Be as good as a CNH belt. But I know that CC/MTD is always looking to save money on parts. The pt # you posted is different than what my #72 & 38" deck uses, and late last summer when I bought a new mule drive belt my local CC dealer said MTD had started supplying a new cheaper belt that was not as wide as the older belts. I haven't used it yet but was assured it would maybe last half as long as the old wider belts. Turns out I had 2-3 old style belts on hand. Seems that my 72 goes thru a mule drive belt about once a year now with the K321 installed. With the old K241 the mule drive would last 4-5 yrs. Anyhow, just what I want... a $30 belt that lasts half as long! ;-(

Your 147 & mower may use a different belt that hasn't changed yet. I tried a Dayco belt years ago on my 129 & 44A deck and it didn't work. The belt wouldn't make the twists between the engine & idler pulleys and would jump off the idlers before the mower got up to speed. I've heard people here say that the Gates Green Belts work, but I always keep going back with IH/MTD belts now.

Most CNH dealers were IH dealers that handled CC's when they were made by IH, so you'd be getting OEM belts either way.

 

[dcmay]

Thanks Digger.You mentioned somthing I had'nt thought of and that is the aluminum oil pan on my Quiet Line. It may not like a solid mount.I think I may forget about solid mtg.

 

[bjamison]

Charlie - I got lucky on my 1650. The tractor came with a box of miscelanous parts, among them was another set of used ISO mounts. So I had 4 good ones from the top of the cradle when I took the engine out and 4 good ones (out of 8) from the box of parts. I've done the cradle mod - I just need to find the time to put everything together... someday.

Question is - if you destroy the oil pan using the solid mounts, how is that different than a solid mounted 149 or 169 - just asking.

 

[digger]

Bill J.
I'm thinking that it's a combination of the rail mounting system QL's have and the flexing in the same.
I'm still of the opinion that the old IH designers kinda knew what they were doing when it came to QL's, so who am I to try and fix something that ain't broke.

 

[bwittman]

New ISO mounts and flex joints didn't work for me. Now, I have no idea how to get the vibration dampened down enough to sit on the thing.

 

[nbextermueller]

I'm on board with Bill J. All this talk about iso-mounts, but every cub I've owned has been solid mounted right to the frame.

I can see the mounts reducing vibration, but not using them doesn't suddenly make the engine vibrate more than it's solid cousins. Unless breaking the oil pan has something to do with solid mounting the rails.... I just don't get it.

More reasons I never want to own a QL.

Brian W.
So much you can't sit on it? Either your really spoiled or your cub has bigger issues...

 

[jharvey]

Nic
I thought it has been discussed here that one of the changes at the QL series was the elimination of balance gears, hence all the more need for the iso-mounts, centering balls on the driveshaft, and double flex disks.

Brian
Look at your driveshaft and see if it's spinning true or has a wobble causing the vibration. Have you replaced the centering ball assys on each end of the driveshaft?

 

[drglinski]

This post is in regards to the one I put up about belts---

AND I'm sure it's been beat to death--

but I'm not sure if my PTO is slipping (at least it SHOULDN'T be).

While mowing in heavy grass the engine did not bog but the deck slowed. I suspected the belt because it's a sunbelt and I've never heard of them. I did some playing today and with the PTO engaged, I manually turn the blades (spark plug wire disconnected!) by hand, hold the generator, and I can see the PTO slipping some.

I'm confused, because a 30+ YR IH mechanic rebuilt the PTO at the beginning of the season because a PO had gernaded it, and used new parts.

I hope I don't have to take the PTO off again.

What might be going on here?

 

[dtanner]

Daniel Glinski
If you have the proper adjustment between the PTO button and the pto and the PTO slips . I would say it is not adjusted properly and will need to be removed and adjusted per the adjusting instructions on a PTO.

 

[scorder]

Finally got a decent amount of rain here in central Indiana overnight. May get to do a little mowing with the old 72 this week. Grass already looks a little greener!

 

[jmacdonald]

After soaking the shifter overnight I was able to use the C clamp method to remove the pressed in bottom. The cup is broken away all the way around from the shift lever, but otherwise looks repairable with welding.
I am at another scratch my head point.
How to I get the pin out in the photo 1. It must have been pressed in from the outside photo 2. Any hints how to get at the pin holding the spring etc. in photo 3. The spring is already compressed and underneath. I can just barley see any of the pin.
I sure looks assembled differently than the way it's pictured in the TC-133

I certainly am slow, but making progress.

 

[thoffman]

Jimmy Mac,
Get all of that picture out of you head. DO NOT remove that lil' roll pin thing on #8!! Take out the <font size="-2">small</font> roll pin holding the spring and keverything else and remove it. Slide #3 out the bottom. The cup under #8 will come out the bottom with the pin in place.

 

[wshytle]

Brian-

You apparently have something else that needs attention like the driveshaft. I have a few QLs and sure, they shake a bit on start up and shut down but don't shake while in use any more than any other Kohler. These are shaking machines and I'm sure the engineers at IH weren't trying to get the shake out with the iso mounts, they were simply trying to dampen things a bit. I would not install solid mounts on any QL for any reason. If the engine isn't leaking oil (which will speed up the iso rubber failures) and the engine and rails are installed correctly things will last a good long while. Once you're use to the QL and the way it runs/operates I'm sure you'll like it.

And they are a lot quieter than the others.

 

[drglinski]

I think I may have discovered why the PTO was loose, while in the engaged position. One of the throw out levers was loose while the other two were not. I took the PTO off, snugged up the nuts on the back of the bolts (of equal length, per the service manual) and put it back on. Doing a manual test-not running the engine or deck- seems to prove successful- I hope.