Archive through August 03, 2010

[kmcconaughey]

Here is Jerry B's old Original with the RD-300 loader.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's some photos of the same tractor and loader at Red Power Round Up in 2009. Keith L. now owns it.

 

[tsmoker]

Are those just weights on the inside of the wheels, or do they double as spacers to help the tires clear the frame of the loader?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tom, I believe those are dual purpose spacers/weights. Perhaps Jerry or Keith will let us know for sure.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, I installed one of the subframe parts, that you welded up for me, and put it back into service and it worked great! With the wear points modified and/or built back up it was nice and level and the belt stayed on. Deck didn't seem near as loose as it used to be. The other subframe I wire brushed to bare metal, wiped it down with lacquer thinner and primed and painted it and hung it in the shed to dry. I'll keep it as a spare. Thanks for a fine welding job!

 

[nbartee]

I have a Magnum 18 flywheel where two of the magnets came loose. Can they be bonded back in? Is there some trick to this? I also notice each is marked with a white mark. Does this mean anything?

Norm

 

[aaytay]

Kraig-
Glad it worked out!

 

[sbauer]

A few weeks ago i got some help on fine tunig my Walbro carb for my 782 w/ a kt17 series II. When i got around to looking at everything last night i notice that mine only had two adjust screws and the diagram ai got had three. Would the two still be the idle adjustment and i have no main high speed adjustment. Thanks as always for any help.

 

[sreinbolt]

No, I didn't hang myself with my 71 wiring harness, but thanks for the concern!! I STILL AIN'T GOT IT RIGHT!! The 4 post voltage regulator diagram that Paul Funk referred me to on July 28 is the one I have. However, I still can't get the harness right. Hoping if I lay out what I've got, someone will see the error of my ways. There are 4 wires connected to the VR. The top is yellow and is attached to the "F" post on the VR, and runs to the "F" post on the SG. The middle is a grey wire and is attached to the "BATT" post on the VR and runs to the top post of the starter sylanoid. The bottom wire is green, is attached to the "L" post on the VR and runs to the "A" post on the SG. There is a pink wire attached to the "G" post on the VR (this is the post on the back of the VR), and it runs to the bottom post of the sylanoid. There is a heavy red wire that runs from the "A" post on the SG and is attached to the bottom post of the sylanoid. There are two orange wires, and they run from the foot pedal safety switch, with one connected to the side post of the sylanoid, and the other attached to the ignition. A green wire runs from the ignition to the top post of the sylanoid. A black wire runs from the ignition to the condensor. Finally, a heavy red wire runs from the top post of the sylanoid to the "+" post on the battery. At this point, when I attach the battery, the starter engages without turning the key or holding down the clutch pedal. As always, any help appreciated.

 

[ljones]

Does the danco rd-300 have a manual bucket dump?

Does anyone have a pic of a utility box for a cub o ?

 

[sbauer]

anyone have an idea what spark plug a KT-17 would take? The owners manual says Champion RBL15Y but i don't think they are made anymore.

 

[kide]

Scott:
I'd go back to the wiring diagram for the 71 in the cubfaqs as there are at least two questionable connections if that's how you've got it wired.. The GEN tab connects to the armature ("A") post on the S/G.. The L post is used for direct loads like lights, not as a voltage source to the armature and should be left blank unless you've got aux wiring needs....

 

[dandre]

Scott,
"A black wire runs from the ignition to the condensor."

The black wire goes to the + coil terminal, not the condensor. As Gerry said, the green L wire is causeing it to try to crank.

 

[kide]

NGK BPR4FS
Autolite 26
Bosch HR10BC

I love Google..."Champion RBL15Y cross reference"

 

[sbauer]

Thanks Gerry

 

[kide]

Steven:

 

[mgonitzke]

Norm-

I don't see why not. I have two flywheels that need the magnets reattached. You just have to make sure you don't change the orientation of them so that the alternator still works. What to glue them in with, I haven't decided yet.

 

[nbartee]

Matt,

I rebuilt an M18 engine and bonded the two magnets in the flywheel. Just started it up & everything works fine except that I'm getting 10 volts instead of 28 on the charging circuit. The regulator & stator check out okay, so the only thing I can think of is the magnets. I took great pains in making sure everything was right, I thought. I measured the gap distance, rim distance, and marked them. Maybe they still got mis-orientated, I don't know. I made a career as a composite & metal bonding engineer and I also consulted a Materials & Processes engineer and we chose hi-temp silicone adhesive. The red stuff you use instead of gaskets. It will take the heat, is water & oil resistant, and bonds well. Just keep your glue line thin. Anyway, it sounds like to me a person should be able to successfully do it, I fail to see anything magical. I was just trying to find someone who has had success or knows if there is some trick to it.

Norm

 

[aschumacher]

Norm, was your meter set on AC or DC when you checked voltage? My understanding is you have an AC alternator...The regulator block assy turns the AC into DC and also controls it to appx 12-14 volts for use. Maybe Gerry or another electrical will speak up. Someone had a diagram of the regulator showing the AC/DC connections.
What I,m saying is, it maybe ok, just metered wrong.

 

[jbliler]

Kraig,,, Thanks for the re-post. Those wheel spacers are 1 and 1/2 inch plate. They were made to move the wheels out for wheel clearance with the side weights mounted. The side weights are not installed in the later pictures. The tabs were left so that the weights could be reused. The side weights were 2 and 1/4 plate.Three inch angle iron was ran across between them and a high mount drawbar hole for a hitchball was also on the back. Great traction with all of it. The bushings in the axel tubes were in tough shape though. Was a GREAT buy for $150 and was a fool to let go of it!
Yes the bucket is a trip setup from factory. And YES it is a pain.