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Archive through August 03, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Gerry-

No, I don't think you did, but thanks!
happy.gif
It'd be stupid of me NOT to, as I would not be able to afford the steel for this if I had to buy it all new. I only bought about $40 worth of new steel for this. We have one wall in our barn that's dedicated to scrap steel angle iron, tubing, round stock, flat, and other random things. Every so often we find something at an auction that can be cut up and used for other purposes. I've built several other things without buying any new metal at all.

Gary C.-

That might help, but the cross shaft itself may also be worn. If that's the case, a complete teardown would be necessary to replace the cross shaft, so in that case, it'd be best to live with it and wait for a rebuild.

Nic B.-

Good luck finding USA tri-ribs. I have never seen any. For the wider tires, I'd recommend Vredestein V61 5-rib tires. They are European made. I have not heard of weathering problems with them like I have with the Firestone tri-ribs and some other import tires, i.e. Nanco. I think Vredestein makes a tri-rib tire, too...
 
Matt Gerecke - Here are a couple shots of my 1250 before I restored it. Hope they help.

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I can try to get a closer shot after work if you want.
 
Nic - thanks for the reply. I took a closer look at the rims. The wheel seam and where the inner lug bolt web is welded to the outer wheel is slightly different so they are from a different manufacturer than that used by CC.
 
Norm B + Gerry I, Just curious, how many magnets are there on a flywheel for an alternator? I have only seen small hp flywheels with one cast-in(?) magnet. If there are only 4 magnets and one is wrong I"m sure sure that would mess up the generating capacity.
 
Well, here is the best I can find about orienting the stator magnets... The examples are not Kohler, but the part about pole orientation and finding same is, regardless. There should be a pole reversal as each magnet passes over the coil(s). I'd also recommend using an epoxy to glue 'em, clamped and left over night at a minimum..
 
Well I finally got around to pulling the thrown clutch out of the IH CC 1000. What else should I be looking for that would have caused this clutch to wear the holes oblong like this?
Plus when it threw the clutch half way out between the pressure plates it bent one of those fingers closest to the clutch in pic in a 90 degree. I just hammered it back and put a weld on the other side and grind it flush.

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Aaytay

Breather Assembly maybe the problem. Just had my engine in the shop and opened. I just went and looked and there was no filter, and with an aftermarket breather cover (one that can attach a hose onto it) the gasket center was covering the port hole....Won't get to test yet, but looks reasonable to me.

Matt, that will be my next thing if needed.

Thanks
Gary C.
 
ROY N. - Every CC wheel I've ever seen was made by Electric Wheel Co., Div of Firestone back when Our CC's were made. EWC is now part of Titan. Located in Quincy, IL.

French & Hecht, Div. of Kelsey-Hayes/Fruehauf also had the equipment to make the wheels for garden tractors but I've never seen any of their wheels on CC's. Their main plant was just on the east edge of downtown Davenport, IA but the small wheel plant was in Walcott, IA.

The rear wheels for almost ALL garden tractors used the same stamped/punched center discs and rims, the differences were in where the disc was spot-welded to the rim and what color they were painted.

There were a few "special exceptions", like the off-topic #400 tractors, and the Case/Ingersol tractors that used 16" rear rubber. Also the BIG Simplicity/Allis-Chalmers tractors used a bigger diameter tire/wheel.
 
Dennis - your note makes sense as I seen the word "Fires...." stamped into the rim of the JD wheel. Part of the name was obscured by the center disc. I presume the symbol to the left is for Electric Wheel Co. If this markings are also on Cub Cadet wheels I haven't yet noticed it.
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