Archive through August 03, 2005

[dbeck]

Steve Blunier:
Earlier you mentioned "adding a cross brace to the rails". Are you saying to weld a cross brace to the two engine rails to make it one piece?

 

[digger]

Dave B,
CLICK HERE to see how to make that modification.

 

[jacuff]

Thanks guys for the answers on my 1650! I had a feeling that slot in the dash had something to do with the hydro control, due to it's close proximity. I just didn't know what. I'm guessing mine got "lost" somewhere along the way. Might be a good idea to replace it tho, as I have to be pretty careful with the hydro lever. This has to be the fastest stock garden tractor I've ever owned! And as loose as the steering is on this thing, at full speed it's a handful! Which brings me to my next question: The steering shaft has a lot of endplay. I'm hoping to be able to take most of that out by adjusting the plug in the bottom of the gearbox. The problem is that there is a lot of movement where the steering tube fits into the top of the box. Is there a fix for this? Or should I be looking for another box? Steve, I'd be interested in hearing more about that frame brace you mentioned. Thanks!
John (who's starting to wonder about the wisdom of this trade)

 

[jacuff]

Ooppss! I guess I should have read a few more messages before posting. Thanks Digger! It's kinda hard to follow the posts here since I'm not used to there being no subject lines. Back to the brace, I'm wondering what the benefit is, since the engine oil pan ties both sides together anyway, but since the factory sells the updated rail system, there must be a good reason.

 

[rbedell]

John G:

If it were me, I might try Lacquer Thinner or Acetone to cut that gunk. That is just a suggesttion. I realize I am not looking at the stuff so I really don't know what you are up against. Just trying to offer some options.

 

[kdunham]

John G.-Is your stuff that you can't clean up a graphite something or other,like Anti-Seize? Most of us would rather not have to clean up an Anti-Seize disaster,you could be there a long time. I wonder what it is and why it's there.

 

[dphelps]

John A. One benefit of the brace is lining up the rails to the engine when you put the Kohler back in. W/O the brace the rails slip out of alignment when any engine weight is on them. Not enough hands at that point.

 

[dfrisk]

ROLAND B. - Thanks for posting the 70/100 wiring diagrams. I suspect they're not much different than My #72 but I know I'm going to need to rewire My 70 I got the 4th of July, along with a LOT of other work. It's not quite in the same condition I remember it from say 1963... but at least it doesn't have TREES growing thru the frame....

 

[ehall]

I was recently given a cub cadet 71, it runs and mows pretty good. It has a 7 horse kohler engine on it. Was this the only engine offered with this model? What is the largest engine that will easily fit this cadet?

(Message edited by ehall on August 05, 2005)

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ed, the "7" in "71" indicates the hp. The largest Kohler that will "drop in" would be a Kohler 12hp K301 but it must be a Cub Cadet spec. version so that the correct crank and oil pan are on it.

 

[jbliler]

Show at Brooks Oregon well worth the trip again this year. Thanks to Harry bursell and Doug Barnett for the time and bringing the cubs along. Harry now has a pickup that has not had any green in it! Nice move up!

 

[ehall]

Thank you for the information. I will look for the K301 cadet spec but for now I am satisfied with the 7 because it runs smooth and quiet. It still seems to have plenty of power. I wanted the extra horse power because I plan to garden with this tractor, instead of just mow the lawn, as soon as I can locate/build some attachments like a plow , tiller etc...

 

[krandall]

Was informed last night that I.H.C. Collectors Chapter 33 will be hosting a Plow Day on Sunday August 21 at the Smith Farms on the corner of CR.N400East and CR.E400North...This is located 4 miles East and 4 miles North of Winamac Indiana..
Directions are HWY 14 East of Winamac to CR.N400East go north to the corner of CR.E400North
field is on the south east corner...
I was told that to plow you MUST be a member of Chapter 33..You can join the morning of the event.
There will be a place to show any I.H. equipment you may wish to bring. Ther will be approx. 100 acres of Harvested potato ground to be plowed and plowing starts at 9:00 A.M. There will be a potluck lunch at noon and bring a dish if you plan on eating...I'll answer any questions that I can or forward questions to someone who can answer them.Hope to see you there.
I know this is posted in the wrong place so I hope Bryan will put it in the correct place...

(Message edited by krandall on August 05, 2005)

 

[krandall]

I forgot to mention in the earlier plow day post this chapter was formed for the larger I.H. products but there are ALOT of members that are hoping for a MASSIVE Cub Cadet turnout..All I.H. products welcomed and encouraged to attend....

 

[rbedell]

Dennis F:

Thanks...!!!

Here is a Color Coded Wiring Diagram and Schematic for the 72, 1x4, 1x5 series:

 

[mmasheris]

Charlie you are going to like that spray gun.Only thike is that you can't set it down like one with the cup on the bottom.Make yourself a stand for it.

 

[jblackmar]

Hi, I wrote two days ago about my 1250 stalling, it only runs when connected with jumper cables to another battery, and Kenny suggested that it could be the battery. I mistakenly wrote that it’s a 1250, it’s actually a 1450… sorry. So I picked up a new battery at Sears and the starter now spins and spins, but it doesn’t turn the motor. It’s almost as if the starter is spinning the wrong direction??? Do I need to change the polarity? How? The Positive is connected to positive, etc. Thanks, I’m a real novice when it comes to this electrical stuff…

 

[rbedell]

John B:

The only difference between the 1250 & the 1450 is two HP.

I recently had a similar situation with my 1450. It turned out to be a bad bendix (start drive) on my starter. It wore out and won't grab the flywheel anymore. Installed a new starter and all is good now. Now, I don't know if what you are describing is the same thing, but you could remove the starter from the motor and see if the starter unit turns, and if the bendix comes out to engage the flywheel. You could also take the starter to a Starter Repair Shop and have it tested.

I seriously doubt that the polarity changed on your Cub.

Hope this helps,

 

[sblunier]

The starter bendix is gooped up with crap and won't "throw out" onto the flywheel to start the engine.

Pull the starter, work the bendix out so that the acme threads are showing (under the gear) and hose it down with lots of brake cleaner...then scrub it with a toothbrush, then hose it down somemore. Finally, spray some DRY LUBE on the threads/gear DO NOT USE AN OIL BASED PRODUCT OR GREASE!!!!!!...they will attract dirt and make it worse!!!!

This is a very common problem on Kohler ring gear starters.


BTW, 1450 and 1250.....2hp AND Hyd. lift......BIG
"AND" there

(Message edited by sblunier on August 05, 2005)

(Message edited by sblunier on August 05, 2005)

 

[jblackmar]

Thanks Roland! I'm not home now, but last night, (and without removing the starter) I was able to stick my finger in and spin the bendix toward the flywheel and it seemed to grab on fine. The starter is only about a year old, with limited use, so I assumed it was fine. When I turn the key, you can see it spin in position, it doesn't spin towards the flywheel, it just stays close to the starter. Maybe I should reconnect the old battery and the jumper cables to see if it still starts that way. Maybe the new Sears battery is reversed?