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Archive through August 02, 2013
- Thread starter dfrisk
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
mgwin
Well-known member
Lewis P.,
That looks awful!! What was that?
That looks awful!! What was that?
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
1650 update:
Put a new solenoid on the tractor, not even a click. First time I've ever replaced a solenoid and that not being the problem when getting a tractor to start. I've never replaced an ignition switch.
So with wiring diagram and VOM in hand and jumpers....
I began to systematically work through the ignition circuit. The brake safety switch is missing on this tractor and for now there is a jumper on that terminal. This left the PTO switch. I put jumpers it's part of the ignition circuit and that fixed the problem. To rule out the ignition switch, I used the one off my parts 122, only exception being - no provision/prong for the hour meter on the 1650. The connector fit the 122's pin just fine.
I gave the tractor a crank and the starter would spin - yippie!!!!!!!!!
But....
The starter would not engage the flywheel, only grind a bit.
I checked the voltage on the battery and it is around 12.75V, so I think it's good.
I had a spare starter, put it on - same thing.
This is starting to get irritating, so time to hit the recliner and prepare for the Hall of Fame football game tonight between the Cowboys and Dolphins.
Only thing missing is a nice fire in the window of the wood stove.
In as much as the 1650 is down, spent a couple of hours of seat time on the MF50 Diesel doing a bit of bush hogging.
I'll ponder this 1650 again next week.
Put a new solenoid on the tractor, not even a click. First time I've ever replaced a solenoid and that not being the problem when getting a tractor to start. I've never replaced an ignition switch.
So with wiring diagram and VOM in hand and jumpers....
I began to systematically work through the ignition circuit. The brake safety switch is missing on this tractor and for now there is a jumper on that terminal. This left the PTO switch. I put jumpers it's part of the ignition circuit and that fixed the problem. To rule out the ignition switch, I used the one off my parts 122, only exception being - no provision/prong for the hour meter on the 1650. The connector fit the 122's pin just fine.
I gave the tractor a crank and the starter would spin - yippie!!!!!!!!!
But....
The starter would not engage the flywheel, only grind a bit.
I checked the voltage on the battery and it is around 12.75V, so I think it's good.
I had a spare starter, put it on - same thing.
This is starting to get irritating, so time to hit the recliner and prepare for the Hall of Fame football game tonight between the Cowboys and Dolphins.
Only thing missing is a nice fire in the window of the wood stove.
In as much as the 1650 is down, spent a couple of hours of seat time on the MF50 Diesel doing a bit of bush hogging.
I'll ponder this 1650 again next week.
Bill, I had a 1200 w/the same kind of trouble. Turned out to be mouse nest jammed up in the flywheel so tight the starter wouldn't even begin to turn the engine over.
Dave S.
Dave S.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
Quick Question - Anyone here purchased an IH Cub Cadet new from back in the day? I know several members have/had family purchase one, but anyone here who actually bought new an IH Cub Cadet and are still using it?
Just curious.
Just curious.
Bill,
I guess I'm kind'a showing my age but I bought a new 149 from McMaster International in Arlington, Tx in 1973. Also got a 44" mowing deck, 10" moldboard, gang disc, and a dozer blade. She's lived at the same address her whole life and most of the time outside. Just minor repairs in 40 years. Funny thing, I've worked this little machine hard and experienced very few of the problems some of the other members have. Just lucky I guess. I've talked to people all these years about how heavy duty these tractors were built. In 1980 she got a 1450, like new, step sister and since then a 128, soon to be a restored "148", another 1450, a 149, and a 122. The old gal still runs and works.
I guess I'm kind'a showing my age but I bought a new 149 from McMaster International in Arlington, Tx in 1973. Also got a 44" mowing deck, 10" moldboard, gang disc, and a dozer blade. She's lived at the same address her whole life and most of the time outside. Just minor repairs in 40 years. Funny thing, I've worked this little machine hard and experienced very few of the problems some of the other members have. Just lucky I guess. I've talked to people all these years about how heavy duty these tractors were built. In 1980 she got a 1450, like new, step sister and since then a 128, soon to be a restored "148", another 1450, a 149, and a 122. The old gal still runs and works.
BILL J - I was about 8 yrs old when Dad bought the CCO back in '63, and ten when he traded it for the 70 in '65 which I refurbished this spring for SON. It, the 70, has been thru several engines & engine rebuilds, lets see... two rebuilds of the factory K161, and a complete new replacement K181, which was rebuilt at least once, maybe twice, and not sure of the history of the engine that was in it when I got it several yrs ago but I put a fresh K241 in it. Mechanically, the tractor was/is still in great shape after 48 yrs, 5-6 engines and thousands of hours.
I think Steve B still has the 100 his Dad bought brand new too. Plus I know there's several other's who have CC's they bought new or nearly new.
I think Steve B still has the 100 his Dad bought brand new too. Plus I know there's several other's who have CC's they bought new or nearly new.
Bill my 1250 had the same starting problem as your 1650. I found a bad ground wire connection where the battery connects to the frame. You could check that by connecting the battery ground post directly to the starter mount bolt with your booster cables.
dclinansmith
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2004
- Messages
- 124
- displayname
- David Clinansmith
Bill J. I bought a 149 with a 42" deck in July of 1973 from Dowling IH in Enterprise, Al. It has been primarily used for mowing and garden duty. It was on vacation for four years, during that time I was in Germany and Korea. It has had no major issues during its life and has never spent a night out doors.
Bill J,
I bought a new 1650 in 1979 and sold it to a friend 14 years ago.I mowed about 2 acres with it for 20 years.The friend uses it only on a tiller.Says it still runs like a dream and wants one like it to mow with.
I bought a new 1650 in 1979 and sold it to a friend 14 years ago.I mowed about 2 acres with it for 20 years.The friend uses it only on a tiller.Says it still runs like a dream and wants one like it to mow with.
Looking to replace some steering spindle bolts and scored these at th local IH dealer.
They are 1/2" too long and have no hole for the cotter key but that's fixable and for the price, 4/$1, couldn't be beat!!
They are 1/2" too long and have no hole for the cotter key but that's fixable and for the price, 4/$1, couldn't be beat!!
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
Yes - I think grounding and clean connections are the culprit on this tractor. When I bought it, the tractor wasn't setting in a fence row with a tree growing up through the steering wheel, but it had seen a lot of time setting in the sun, rain, snow, ice and hell...
Every screw has some sign of rust on it, so I'll be doing come clean-up and trying again.
Every screw has some sign of rust on it, so I'll be doing come clean-up and trying again.
JERRY - NO Gernade gears in 70's & 100's. The needle bearings & circlips seem to last the life of the original piston & rings. But I'd set them in a safe place on the top back shelf in the shop on the first rebuild.
The K301 that was in my basket-case 129 was already .020" O/S on the bore when I got it and still had the gears in it, but they were wore REALLY bad, so I removed them. That engine had other "Issues", like five of the twelve blower vanes in a row on the flywheel missing, so it vibrated in spite of the gears.
Costs a lot of money to replace the shafts the bearings run on, the needle bearings, circlips, shims, etc. If I was running a rebuild shop and could still get the parts I'd tell people to rebuild the gears & replace them too... Parts revenue you know!
Dave Kirk's balance plates fix the imbalance problem that Kohler let go on the bigger engines and then band-aided with the gernade gears which were a poor design IMO. The 1/2" ID needle bearings were WAY too small for what they were expected to do.
The K301 that was in my basket-case 129 was already .020" O/S on the bore when I got it and still had the gears in it, but they were wore REALLY bad, so I removed them. That engine had other "Issues", like five of the twelve blower vanes in a row on the flywheel missing, so it vibrated in spite of the gears.
Costs a lot of money to replace the shafts the bearings run on, the needle bearings, circlips, shims, etc. If I was running a rebuild shop and could still get the parts I'd tell people to rebuild the gears & replace them too... Parts revenue you know!
Dave Kirk's balance plates fix the imbalance problem that Kohler let go on the bigger engines and then band-aided with the gernade gears which were a poor design IMO. The 1/2" ID needle bearings were WAY too small for what they were expected to do.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,829
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Denny,
Big Steve's 100 was purchased 2nd hand in about 1974. It came out of a guys basement in bushel baskets and Big Steve put it all back together and painted it. In the late 70's he made a "sub cat 0" 3pt hitch for it and added hyd. lift. My brother and I mowed 100's of acres with it as a kid, all on the 1974 overhauled 10hp.
....so it wasn't factory new, but it certainly has seen a lot of use in one place!!!!
Big Steve's 100 was purchased 2nd hand in about 1974. It came out of a guys basement in bushel baskets and Big Steve put it all back together and painted it. In the late 70's he made a "sub cat 0" 3pt hitch for it and added hyd. lift. My brother and I mowed 100's of acres with it as a kid, all on the 1974 overhauled 10hp.
....so it wasn't factory new, but it certainly has seen a lot of use in one place!!!!
STEVE - I went to a farm auction years ago that had three FARMALL Super C's on the sale bill. I looked at the two in the machinery lineup and wondered where the third one was. When I got over to the second hay rack, there it was.... in three REALLY big cardboard boxes, all in pieces... "Some Assembly required". ;-)
I thought that picture of that 100 with the really deep snow all around was older than 70's vintage... was thinking '60's vintage. I'm glad Big Steve was able to save it.
Yep, the K241 sure lasts a LOT longer when mowing or blowing snow than a K161/181. I know the 70 used to always struggle mowing if I let the grass get just a little too tall. The crab grass in the barnyard & on the road banks especially brought it right to it's knees even in 1st gear.
I thought that picture of that 100 with the really deep snow all around was older than 70's vintage... was thinking '60's vintage. I'm glad Big Steve was able to save it.
Yep, the K241 sure lasts a LOT longer when mowing or blowing snow than a K161/181. I know the 70 used to always struggle mowing if I let the grass get just a little too tall. The crab grass in the barnyard & on the road banks especially brought it right to it's knees even in 1st gear.
