Archive through August 02, 2012

[dtanner]

 

[dsenatore]

Still trying to solve the no spark issue on my 1650. New coil, condenser, plug and points still no spark. Would a fouled stator cause no spark? What about bad voltage rectifier? Engine cranks but no spark. I 'm thinking my next step is to take the flywheel off and make sure everything is clean on the stator.
Thanks, David

 

[messary]

David S.
Did you verify that you had 12v to the positive post of the coil?
Mike

 

[dsenatore]

I haven't, how do I do that w/a multimeter?

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY - The later vintage Kohler blocks with the forward lower right front corner oil fill tube for use in the Q/L tractors, Kohler made a small block off plate that attached with 2-3 small screws just like the mounting plate for the fill tube. The K321 I put in my 72 was from a 147 and had the block-off plate. The oil fill/dipstick on the cam driven gear is where I add oil. There's no top right front tube/dipstick like the earlier CC's had, 70/100, etc. but on an older tractor with S/G & mech. PTO like a 1X8/1X9 that should be a workable deal.

BILL J. - I would think a 10 HP hydro w/44" deck would be able to handle the speed-up pulley, but I'd be prepared to mow even slower. It would be important to keep the grass mowed more frequently since you wouldn't have an abundance of power to mow taller grass.

 

[messary]

a meter or even just a simple test light would work. you should have power to the coil when the key is in the on AND start position. You could just run a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery to the positive post of the coil and try starting it. If it starts, you'll have to pull the wire off, or turn off the gas to kill it. If you are not getting power to the coil, check wiring and ignition switch. See right everyone?

 

[pbell]

David S.
The stator and voltage rectifer's job it to keep the battery charged. The battery supplies the power for the engine to run, SO:
1. Is the battery fully charged?
2. Is there 12 volts or more from the ignition switch to the plus side of the coil (switch on)?
3. Is there 12 volts or so from the minus side of the coil to the points?
4. Is the condenser connected to the minus side of the coil, and does the condenser have a good ground (through the mount strap)?
5. Clean the points. Even if they are new, new points can be oxidized enough to prevent firing.

 

[dsenatore]

Thanks for the information, looking forward to get home and run these tests.
Battery's fully charged, proper connection to (-) side of coil to condenser and I freshened the ground from frame to engine.

One thing I've noticed is that my hour meter(dial type w/hands like a clock) runs with key off almost always so I disconnect battery when not trying to start it. Bad ignition switch??

 

[dross]

David S, the PTO switch on a QL has to be off to start it. It's also a cause for the tractor not to start if that goes bad. If you get a test light or multi meter and you don't have 12 volts at the coil start at the ignition switch and follow the voltage till you find out where it stops.

 

[bunderwood]

Saved a 122 from scrap yard. The front axle is badly worn where the steering knuckle fits. Has any one had success installing bushings and if so the process.
Thanks
Bob

 

[dclinansmith]

David S. I don't want to insult your intelligence but are you sure your points are gapped correctly. I have a friend that worked on a 1250 about a week. He called for help, the points were out of adjustment. Have you verified the condition of the wire between the coil and the points?

 

[ksanders]

Bob U,
Anything can be drill and "sleeved" with a bushing or two smaller bushings on each end but for what you can buy a used front axle for, it would probably be as cheap as the bushings alone not including your time since NF axles aren't really worth anything.

 

[hydroharry]

Bob U - are you sure it's the axle that's worn??? I think what you're referring to as the knuckle is more commonly called a spindle. More often than not, the spindle is the part worn, or the cap on the spindle if it's the left side, or even the roll/spring pin in the cap. These items are readily available from the sponsors, or sometimes you can find "sorta" good used ones.

 

[rjbaker]

I just purchased a 124 that was in rough condition. I was finally able to get the engine started, but it smoked badly and will need to be overhauled. The engine ID says its an 301C so I was suprised to find that the bore measured about 3.505. The piston was marked STD. Can 301's be bored out to except a standard 321 piston? If so can it be bored further if needed to clean up the cylinder?

 

[hydroharry]

Dennis F - thanks for the info on the oil fill tube block off plate from Kohler. That's certainly got to be easier than making something up. Wonder if Kohler has one to use when the grenade gears put a window in the block, or if anyone has fixed a block afterwards?

 

[dsenatore]

No insult to my intelligence, or lack thereof. I can't say if the points are gapped correctly, bringing my gauges home today, but I did swap out the points from my running 1250 w/same result and they are the same part number.
Also, I believe the PTO switch is good, or at least that it engages w/the key on. I also removed that fuse to try and start as well.

 

[bunderwood]

Appreciate all replies. The axle is worn egg shaped. Thought I would be getting the same problem with a used one. Did not have intentions of bringing it back to life, rebuilt the S/G and heard it run, bought a few things from C. Westfall, will check him for a decent axle.
Thanks again,
Bob

 

[lkortkamp]

Mark G. When I originally set the screw, I turned it in til the idle started to drop off(as I usually do on my cars). I thought that was right. Thus the reason it would not restart(not enough fuel).

I had also set the high speed and it would run up on the governor really smooth(no surging).

I ended up unscrewing the low speed out like 1+ turns from where I had it originally. I kept adjusting/restarting it til it would start instantly.

The low speed mixtures screw is the one on the right side of carb(towards rear of tractor), up at angle(like 2 o'clock). This all from CRS from last week.

 

[hydroharry]

Jack B - you raise a good question which I've not heard addressed before - "Can a K301 be bored to accept a Std K321 piston?". I hope we get a machinest to answer. I have to think they could be. For your situation I wonder if someone used a K321 block and then put the K301 flywheel and shroud back on it, which still had the K301 ID tag. On the other hand, I had understood many of the K241, K301 and K321 blocks were the same and Kohler just bored them to the size they needed. In fact I heard stories that if Kohler made a casting or boring error in a K241 they might just bore it to a K301. Alot of the blocks are cast with "K301" stamped in about 1" size letters/numbers on the PTO side of the block (behind the basket pulley for the S/G), and I've seen pictures of this on what was supposed to be a K321 block, don't recall seeing any pics of it on K241 blocks.

 

[sbleich]

Does anyone know the corect size of the front steering spindles on an original?