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Archive through August 02, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Jack/Harry-

I've heard of that being done, but I wouldn't do it. The K241, K301, and K321 blocks do not have the same cylinder wall thickness to my knowledge. I have seen the K301 blocks that were only bored to a K241 bore, but I have not seen the same situation with a K321 block. At 3.505" that bore might clean up at .010" over and likely would at 0.020" over unless there is bad scoring or wear that you haven't mentioned. If it wouldn't clean up at 0.030" over, I'd sleeve it back to standard bore.
 
Matt, Harry, Jack.
From Sept. 1 2009
just got back from the machine shop. He loaned me a digital caliper. I measured the outside of the cylinder, I found the narowest measurment inside the cooling fins. On three blocks a 10 3.58, A 10 that had K301 stamped in the PTO end of the block that was 3.96, A 14 that measured 3.97. I'll say I was wrong as far as all 10's can be bored out to 14's. What I believe now is some can be bored out to a 14 and some can't. The smaller of the 3 did not have the K-301 cast into the block.

The question came before this is what I found.
 
Dave - hey thanks for posting that previous info. So it looks like "some" K241's could be bored to K321 and some can't. I'm still not recommending it, but it appears to be possible. It also appears that some K241s "may" have a thinner cylinder wall than others.

Jack B - can you tell if your block has K301 cast into the side where the PTO mounts. I'm not sure how well you can actually see it, if at all, when the basket pulley is still installed.
 
I have bored a few 12hp blocks to 14hp standard by boring 0.125.They are still running fine.Only thing to get full power you need a 14or16 hp crank with bigger counter weights.
 
I have torn the engine completely down now and I can find no casting marks other than a big H on the PTO side. I got another suprise when I removed the oil pan. Approximately 1/3 of the piston skirt and pieces of the oil ring were laying in the bottom of it. I can't believe the engine was running with such damage. Amazingly there seems to be no damage to the cylinder. No scoring or marks of any kind. Theres no sigh of any balance gears either. Any one think this engine is worth an overhaul?
 
Jack, I have seen several engines running with a piece of the skirt broken.

no balance gears meens someones been in it and is probaly why its still running..

worth rebuilding?? someone else will have to chime in
 
Thanks Jeff, when I registered I tried Jbaker as my user name and was told it was already used.....
 
Two (2) JBakers and Two (2) Matt G's and Two Steve Bluniers --this forum is filling up with doppelgangers!
smile.gif


Will there ever be Two (2) Jeremiah Chamberlin's or Two (2) Allen Schumacher's (or Two (2) Dennis Frisk's)?
 
A couple of long time engine rebuilders told awhile back that some K241 blocks have 301 stamped on the front of the block. These were actually meant to be made into 301 engines only were needed to meet the ten horse production level.

Jack B. As for rebuilding the engine, I agree with Jeff B. sometimes by purchasing another engine and having to rebuild it you will have more in things than going the route of re-sleeving your current engine back to original specs.

Jeremiah C. There used to be two Marlin H.'s. The other gentleman was Marlin Heinlein and hailed from I believe Indiana.

Off to work. Everyone have a wonderful day.
happy.gif
 
HEY guys.... the Important question is, Will there EVER be another Donald Tanner? ;-)

I predict that there will be THREE Steve Bluniers in a few more years, Big Steve, Middle Steve, and Steve III. Hard to believe he, Steve III was in three-corner pants at PD #1.

JACK B. - If it was my engine, I'd rebuild it.
 
Dave,

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

There will never be another Dennis Frisk.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

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Finally have a "little" time (not much)between projects to see what's up with my model 70 shifter. Its got the optional creeper drive installed. Just to make things easier for me I removed the fenders and seat.

Tom Hoffman kindly responded James,
You don't really have to split the tractor, you can slide the trans to the back "inside" the frame.
Not much to that, knock out the roll pin in the coupling and 4 bolts going through the frame and you're good to go.

Looking under the tractor the only place I see where I could disconnect the drive shaft is at the input to the creeper drive where it is held with two roll pins. There doesn't seem to be much room to get a hammer moving and drive out pins.
Before I start wacking my knuckles is that the right area?

After that It looks like I just need to jack up the tractor to allow the creeper lever and breather to clear the frame.
 
wasn't there another hoffman and we got lucky that Bob's named did not start with C.

Can you imagine 2 C Proctor's....
bouncy.gif
 
I have probably missed it but what if you mount quiet line engines solid?Could they be any worse than their forerunners?$84.00 for a set of mounts at a dealer.
I installed a new set of mounts on a 1650 when they first were available and thought it vibrated worse than with the old worn mtg.
Dan
 
James, you have the right idea. Only one of those roll pins need to be removed. I don't know if the creeper shifter will clear but it would be worth a try.
Not that I'm an expert but I could see a company not use a separate block for the 10 and 12 once the 12 came out, same with the 14. I didn't make it clear in the post from 09 but that 14 horse did have 301 cast in the block
 
Jeff, there was a Mark Huffman that used to be a member waaaaay back in the early days of the forum. Not sure if there's another Hoffman though...
 
Michael, I don't suppose you would know the weight of those heavier crankshafts? That may be a way of IDing this engine.
 
Dave thanks.
At least I am doing somethig right. I did find a small opening in the frame where I can just get a punch on the roll pin from the side, but it won't budge. Going to try spraying some PB blaster on it and see if that helps.
 

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