Archive through April 30, 2010

[nbextermueller]

Geez, archive bug got me again... I was asking about performance 8hp parts. click back to see so I don't have to double post.

 

[dfrisk]

NIC - Call Julian @ 888-414-6983. If He isn't the person I bet he knows who it is.

 

[nbextermueller]

1 more question while its on my mind:

I just flipped through the Spring 2009 issue of Full Pull magazine online and was happy to see the GT's well represented. (even though its a year old) here's my question...

On page 20 there is a photo of Dave Woods on a beautiful tractor (brand I have no idea!) but his rear wheels look like a 5 star pattern similar to the Weld Racing ProStars I ran on my mustang. Ths is the second time I have seen these wheels. the other ones were on a random MF puller I found on Google

http://www.fullpull.com/magazinedemo/

Flip to page 20 to see them. I can't seem to find anything other than solid type Alum wheels in 12x12 or 12x10. Who was there Tallmadge? Anybody know where he got his wheels?

 

[bperegrine]

Nic, they are just decals on a solid wheel to simulate a hole. He does the same with the fronts.

 

[bnolte]

I am trying to figure out the best clutch pressure plate spring to use with a 102 with a mildly hot-rodded K241 when I eventually rebuild the clutch right. I am running 6-12 Ags on the back, and in good gripping soft soil, the clutch slips well before the engine runs out of power or the wheels spin. I am using the original spring with a new clutch disc but the original pressure plates cleaned up a bit. The clutch is adequate for light duty trailering and grading, but if I decide to do a little "stock class" pulling, it will slip before I run out of power or traction.

When I rebuild the clutch, I plan to use new pressure plates and the standard fiber disk.

 

[mkreek]

Bruce, I use the Kevlar clutch pack and a new shaft that you can buy from Midwest Super Cub (MWSC). I also use the Red spring (800 lbs. of force). I have the local machine shop lathe my clutch plates so they are clean and true (costs about $5 around here).

This setup is strong enough not to slip with a stock-altered 16hp. In your situation it should be plenty strong enough if you plan to advance to another class in the future.

Matt }

 

[vthomley]

Bruce,

Matthew said the key thing for gettin gyour clutch to quit slipping - I have the local machine shop lathe my clutch plates so they are clean and true.

This makes sure the whole surface of the clutch plates are being used. He's running a LOT more engine, horsepower, and torque than you have, and the key to his clutch holding is these clutch plates.

I've used just the stock spring with 10ga 5/8" Machine Bushings as spacers to squeeze the stock spring a bit. I dont remember if I used 1 or 2 of these.

 

[dfrisk]

BRUCE - I had a pretty good running K241 in my 72 CC for many yrs (about 15 yrs!) and sometimes at plowdays I'd get into a hard pull on good ground have have the clutch slip a bit.
For a mostly stock K241 you need "FLAT" clutch plates, stock friction disc is fine, but either shim a NEW stock clutch spring or get a RED 800# spring. MWSC sells Billet clutch plates if you can't find a machine shop to grind your stock plates flat. The OEM plates aren't very thick and machining/grinding just makes them thinner and more prone to warping again.

By going to a more serious setup the clutch becomes an "On-Off Switch" and pedal force increases so much you can't push the clutch in without throwout lever & pivot modifications. And that much force KILLS throwout bearings.

To get into a more serious class you'd probably want to build a dedicated pulling tractor anyhow.

 

[jdiederichs]

The "economical" guys simply get a spring from a field cultivator. Instead of using the spring pin at the back of the spring, buy a split collar (5/8") instead. That way you can play with spring tension.

 

[bnolte]

Thanks for all the good advice guys. I think the best way to go is to go with brand new heavy duty clutch pack from Midwest Super Cub, along with a new (as in not homemade) driveshaft, and the 700# spring. Should make it drivable enough for real work, but give me the guts I need when it matters.

 

[nbextermueller]

Do you guys have a few good sources to get the little garden tractor size suitcase wieghts? I know Midwest Supercub has them. But I'd like to avoid shipping them. Just wondering if there is anything closer to STL, MO.

I might have to make the 5 1/2 drive up to pick a bunch up. I need a new clutch myself and a few other parts. I bet I'd save $$ over what it would cost to ship 300# of steel.

 

[bperegrine]

Nic, You are close to some acctualy. Show Me machine Shop in Auxvase Missouri. (573) 386-5344 I think is the number. I just got some from them awhile back. I dont think they have a web site.

 

[nbextermueller]

Thanks Brian,

I'll give them a call.

Also, a month or so ago I posted about the Denman Ditch Digger tire available in 26x12x12. Well, I was told Denman went belly up last month.

So scratch another american made Ag tire off the list. My local tire guy has 5 available. I'm going to buy a set next week.

 

[rwilke]

Hey Fellas,
What is the normal cylinder head temperature of a properly-tuned stock K301 engine?

I'd be using an IR non-contact temp gun to take the temperature measurement - where is the best location to 'shoot' it?

I'm guessing that I'd see much different readings right next to the sparkplug as compared to right next to the exhaust port...?

Thanks in Advance for any & all experienced advice, Guys!

Ryan Wilke

 

[mkreek]

Ryan, A friend of mine on his pulling tractor uses one of these sensors on the bolt on the side of the head above the carb.(he doesn't use the shield around the carb because it can change the temp readings) He then attaches it to a standard automotive temp gauge bought from Napa.

He buys them from http://www.gokartsrus.com/cylinder-head-temperature-sensor-p-4695.html.

Just a quess, I'd say 300-360 degrees. Should be the average temp above the exhaust valve. Maybe in the 180-250 degrees above the intake valve.

 

[rwilke]

Matthew K.,
Thanks a bunch for the quick reply!

The link and the photo of the 'temp sending unit'are very helpful...and pretty cool!

I would think that the bolt-attached sending unit would be more stable than just trying to read the outer surface, as the surface IR reading seems to vary/swing quite a bit.

I'm just fiddling around and plan to track & compare various conditions (outside air temps, work load, length of run time, engine rpm, etc.) to see what I can deduce from it all...

Thanks again for your help!
Ryan Wilke

 

[dfrisk]

RYAN - Just a comment or two. When SON & I raced Glow plug R/C gas cars we checked head temp right at the glow plug, top center of the cyl. head. I think most cyl. head temp gauges the sensor goes under the plug.

I checked head temp on my old K301 years ago with the RAYTEC IR temp gun after a hard run of mowing. I took the temp two, maybe three times and the gun went haywire. The EMI from the ignition system scrambled the circuit board.

From what I've read other places, like for ultra-lite airplane engines, a head temp of 300-325 degrees is "normal".

I'm going to look into that pickup Matthew posted too.

 

[wfizer]

Hi everyone!!! Got a question. Will a K301 go into a CC model 100 without frame mods?????? Thanks!!!!

 

[rwilke]

Dennis F.,
Now that you bring it up, I revisited the sensor ad again and noticed that it does say, "...for reading cylinder head temperature at the spark plug." So, that leads me to think that the sensor pickup "ring" is sized for the diameter of a sparkplug. The sparkplug location would probably be the preferred placement choice as it may provide comparable data collected by others?

I'm confident that putting it under a head bolt head isn't a bad thing, as you'll still get repeatable data for your own use; the data just may not be comparable to other data that was measured at the sparkplug location.

My IR gun (I don't recall what brand it is) didn't go haywire, but the temp readings did fluctuate considerably. I'm thinking that a sensor like the one Matthew highlighted would provide a more stable reading.

Did you notice that the nice, little digital temp gauge referenced is no longer available? -- DANG IT!
Ryan Wilke

 

[rwilke]

Fellas,
I'm also looking for a small, digital tach.
Has anyone used this little digital tach with a single cylinder Kohler? http://www.c-a-i.net/Pages/miniTach.htm
If so, how well does it work for ya?
Anyone know of a better and/or tougher unit?
Thanks!
-- Ryan Wilke