Archive through April 30, 2010

[dfrisk]

RYAN - Looks like a new version of a "TINY TACH". Bryan M., Me, and several others have had them. Kohler uses the 4C version, ign. points are cam driven, no wasted spark. Bryan worked with the company to get some problems resolved, make them more accurate for long term use. Mine stopped registering accurate RPM after a year or two, I took it off and gave it away. Nice little tach, and the recording hour meter is nice for maintenance too.

Monitoring cyl. head temp too close to the exh. port "MAY" exceed the top range of the meter. Most thermocouples have a wide range of temps they can withstand. Never thought of it till you mentioned it but mounting the sensor under a head bolt close to the exh. port may be a way of checking both cyl. head AND exhaust gas temp with one gauge.

My RayTech temp gun would fluctuate when reading temps also, several degrees up & down, I always thought it had more to do with where I was aiming at than temps of the surface changing.

I called RayTech before I ordered a new temp gun several years ago and they said they beefed up EMI protection on later models. I know RayTech makes most of the IR temp guns, plus there's imports now too.

Temp guns were almost required for gas R/C racing. Ideal temps were 225 to 250 deg. F. Anything much over 240 and piston/sleeve life dropped like a rock! Fuel mixture, age and percentage of Nitro in the fuel, glow plug heat range, ambient temp, humidity, wind, ALL played a part on head temp. But it was a BLAST!

 

[mkreek]

Don't forget Kohler made heads where the spark plug is located either over the exhaust valve or in between the valves. Temperatures will vary depending apon where your plug is located.

I think the reason my buddy mounts the sensor on the side of the head is because the air passing by the spark plug (from the flywheel) makes the readings erratic.

 

[rwilke]

Dennis F.,
Bummer that your 'TINY TACH' became inaccurate in only a year or so.
It makes me wonder if this CA Instruments unit would last longer than that?

I don't know

if my IR temp gun is made by RayTech or not.
I do know it does the range ends at 500*F, which is seemingly too low for temp readings near the Kohler's exhaust elbow, as it goes into an Over Limit (OL) condition when pointed at that location.

I've had my IR temp gun for probably 5+ years now.
I haven't noticed any EM interference issues with it. It is an EXTECH # 42500.
Here is its advertised data:
http://www.testersandtools.com/docs/QVTFILE20050922113758723.pdf

Ryan Wilke

 

[rwilke]

Matthew K.,
Good points regarding the different head designs and the generated air stream passing over the sparkplug location.
Hmmmmmm........

Ryan Wilke

 

[dfrisk]

Ryan - This is my new IR temp gun. http://www.raytek.com/Raytek/en-r0/ProductsAndAccessories/PortableThermometers/PortableThermometersSeries/AutoProST25-AutomotiveHandheld/Default.htm

Some specialty companies made remote reading head temp & tach's for R/C gas/glow engines. CHT was easy, but since there's no spark in glowplug engines, they're most similar to a diesel in operation, the tach's were kinda a mystery to me. They became available about the time SON & I stopped racing about ten yrs ago. Really weren't practical for out 1/10th scale 2WD truck & 1/8th scale 4WD buggy classes. More of a "Tuning aid" than anything else which we didn;t need.

 

[mkreek]

Question? Does anyone know who owns that Cub Cadet above in the photos. The one on the left top and bottom pictures. It looks like its a Cub 100 chasis with an Original grill & hood. I'd like to see more pitures of this setup. Anyone have more information?
Thanks

 

[erice]

New guy here!!!
My question to you pullers are what points would you use in a K241. The stock kohler points just don't hold up for my 102 and would like to find better if I can???

 

[rwilke]

Eric R.,
Is this what's you're looking for? The PointsSaver. Find it here: http://www.kirkengines.com/
Ryan Wilke

 

[erice]

Yep, thanks Ryan.
I had my 10hp rebuilt a few years ago and I don't use my cub all that much (had maybe 5 hours on the new rebuild and new points) and one day went out to start it and no spark. Replaced the points and so far it hasn't burnt this set but need to make sure this doesn't happen again. Thanks again Ryan.

 

[rlsmith]

what is the difference with the K&N air filter and a regular stock filter.

 

[dfrisk]

RICHARD - Since your asking about K&N filters in the pulling section I suspect you want to know if there's HP to be gained with a K&N air filter. Answer is "Maybe". Stock classes probably not much, small enough to be insignificant. Modified or unlimited classes with dedicated pulling tractors then yes. I would run a K&N on a dedicated pulling tractor with a mega-BUCK $$$$ engine as opposed to an open air horn like I see most run.

That said, NO WAY would I run a K&N on a daily runner or working tractor, just WAY too much dust/dirt in the air around the engine. A dry pleated paper element like the foam wrapped OEM Kohler element is FAR superior to the K&N or other oil wetted cotton fiber media filters.

ERIC R. - Any chance you left the ignition on for an extended time with the engine not running? That burns points in a hurry if the points are closed. If the whole ignition system is in good shape points should last hundreds of hours of operation. Most FARMALL tractor ingnition systems suggested replacing points @ 250 operating hours, but they would last much longer than that.

 

[erice]

Dennis, I can't recall leaving the key on so I can't say at this time. But I just had new points put in last week and I have been running it almost every day so time will tell, thanks for the info!

 

[crlamb]

I see that Nichols Performance has a clutch shield for a narrow frame Cub...Anyone know where to get one for a wide frame 2050540U ? Trying to make one for my grandsons stock puller and have little or no luck

 

[rlsmith]

Dennis F
What if I were to keep my puller inside a garage and covered up. Then could I get one and put it on.

 

[dfrisk]

RICHARD - For a dedicated pulling tractor a K&N is O-K, and the more wild the engine the more benefit in increased HP it should provide.

I've done tests with oil analysis on my Powerstroke diesel in my pickup with the drop-in K&N filter and they don't filter fine dirt well enough for a CC that sees regular yard work duty in my opinion.

SON & I actually ran K&N filters on our R/C truck & buggy engines for a while. They were the carb. float bowl breather filters actually, but specially sold as carb inlet air filters. They still let more dirt into the engines than the OEM oiled foam filters supplied by the engine manufacturers. But with the chrome top with embossed "K&N" they looked cool.

 

[rlsmith]

Thanks Dennis
Could I ask one more thing what parts would you recommend for my tractor that I should use.

 

[dfrisk]

RICHARD - That depends on LOTS of things, especially the size of your checking account!

First thing I'd suggest is find the local pulling group, and get hold of a rule book. If you like to travel to pulls, get Those sanctioning group's rules too.

Then pick a class, I'd start with something closer to stock. Watch a pull or two, ask some questions of someone who looks like they know what they're doing.

A Pull SON & I went to 15 yrs ago there were three guys with a REALLY nice off-topic tractor on a CC gd chassis, had ALL the go-far parts, pumper carb, crank-trigger ignition, but they were wrapping electrical tape around their crankshaft because they left their allen wrenches at HOME they needed to tighten their exciter wheel. We found another guy with a real nice CC 70 with a really good running K301 12 HP Kohler and another CC, can't remember the model. He even offered to loan us His pulling tires if We wanted to run home and bring the 72 or 129 We had at the time the 2-1/2 miles to the pull. We didn't take him up on the offer, We still had lawn to finish mowing.

Ask questions, be polite, see what other people do. Then spend your money on TIRES and Practice. And while practicing, learn to read track conditions, your tire tracks to zero in on correct tire PSI to get full width foot prints, and weight placement or balance to get ALL the weight on the drive wheels.

If you've already made some or most of these decisions, some of the sponsors above handle parts for pullers, and there's a couple other sites that specialize ONLY in pulling parts. Some I recommend, some I won't.

 

[rlsmith]

DENNIS- I have a wide frame tractor and I dont know if a narrow frame clutch shield would work on my tractor? Do you have any idea. My Grandfather Charles R Lamb just posted below and he never got answered. Thanks for your help.

 

[dfrisk]

If you mean the shield or cover that goes over the clutch between the engine and steering pedestal, either on top or the bottom of the frame, NO, the WF starts getting wider in that area and a NF part won't work.

If your asking about a Scatter shield over the clutch, flywheel or block areas, consult with your intended local pulling group. Their rules and requirements are pretty specific.

 

[dross]

Richard, Dennis, I can't remember a scatter shield but I've seen a lot of pillow block bearings on the driveshaft in that general area on pullers.