Kentuck,
Yepper, every time I read your sig line!
Yepper, every time I read your sig line!
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Archive through April 30, 2010
- Thread starter dtanner
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Jeff B, the last time we "talked" was about tillers... on the lower link, do you have yours pinned on the upper holes or the lower holes? I always had mine on the upper set, but I just put the tiller back on the other day and put it in the lower set and haven't tilled again yet so I not sure how deep it will go this time.
Good morning gentlemen.
I do believe that I have found the leak. The pictures show a fine spray oil loss during a fifteen minute run. I formed a cardboard shroud and the oil spray is perfectly in line between the engine and the clutch. Today I remove the clutch and make my attempt to replace the seal. There are five bolts, one centered on the rotor and four holding the clutch -- once off do I simply pick out the old seal and insert the new? Anything I should be aware of? I feel like an Alaskan surgeon operating by radio. When I put it back, I hope today, I intend to leave a gap of .010 (dealer says .017) at the "window". I'm told the rotor bolt can be a problem. Do I need an impact wrench to take it off and a torque settig to get it reinstalled? I'm more than a little intimidated having no done this before. I'm looking for advice and hints if I need to know something I'm not aware of. Thanks.
Sorry, I forgot something. On my previous photo I also noticed a couple of drips at the front hydraulic body couplings. Is this another thing to be concerend about? As far as I can tell there were four drips in a fifteen minute period running at 3/4 throttle. As bad as I am at solving oil problems, I'm worse at plumbing skills. I haven't touched the lines. Would tightening the connector be a good idea? Kinking that line is not something I want to face.
I have a upset stomach now,what is a green thing doing on this page!!!!! I have some help coming today to help take apart the tent shelter and get that area ready for the new lean to that will give me all Cub storage 12' x 19' . So I bought gas for my loader yesterday and I`am all set this morning to move some crushed rock out of the way. I think I can get about 2 hrs of seat time there. I have to cover 3 tractors over as they will be out side for the next few weeks till I get this finished. Have a great day all.
Gary Smyth
Go to your local hard ware store and get a roll of plumbers tape and take those fittings apart and re-tape them. Not a hard job just some time.Good luck. I think that seal can be pulled out using a sheet metal screw driven in to the seal so you can pull it out. I have change the front hydro seal using that method. Don
Go to your local hard ware store and get a roll of plumbers tape and take those fittings apart and re-tape them. Not a hard job just some time.Good luck. I think that seal can be pulled out using a sheet metal screw driven in to the seal so you can pull it out. I have change the front hydro seal using that method. Don
KRAIG - My closest JD dealer is Columbus, and Statz in Waunakee is about the same distance so Statz would win because I can tour their back lot. Maybe they'd even have a new TerraStar truck on the lot. They normally have a new C/IH FARMALL or McCormick CUT sitting in front of the parts/showroom entrance.
KEN - What's the number on that WIX filter? Guess it would help if I went an looked at the Onan number huh? There's a NAPA & O'Reilly A/P in town, might check them out later today. I'll do a search and see what I can find!
GERRY - Lots of comments are made about diesel's needing "More Maintenance" but I really haven't found that to be the case. There's things you should do but for the most part there's really less to take care of.
Fuel and air filter maint. is important. The gasoline filter on most EFI Ford vehicles is/was a "life of the vehicle" item. I'm fussy where I buy fuel and change fuel filters in my PSD every 50-60K miles instead of the 15K recommended. I did buy a new pleated paper air filter 2-3 yrs ago I really should install, Maybe later today!
There's no sparkplugs, or plug wires, but then the gas engines in the Wife's SUV & my car don't have plug wires anymore either, and both have over 100K on the factory plugs. Exhaust systems last longer.
The biggest cost adder on maintenance is the fact most diesels hold more oil, and oil filters are larger, and cost more. But considering the fuel economy increase the cost per mile is still less even with slightly more expensive diesel fuel. All the advantages of a diesel engine still apply to an engine used seasonally, it just extends the time to payback. If the deisel engine wasn't cheaper to operate over-all you can bet every trucking co, construction co., and any other mobile power-user would still be using gasoline.
KEN - What's the number on that WIX filter? Guess it would help if I went an looked at the Onan number huh? There's a NAPA & O'Reilly A/P in town, might check them out later today. I'll do a search and see what I can find!
GERRY - Lots of comments are made about diesel's needing "More Maintenance" but I really haven't found that to be the case. There's things you should do but for the most part there's really less to take care of.
Fuel and air filter maint. is important. The gasoline filter on most EFI Ford vehicles is/was a "life of the vehicle" item. I'm fussy where I buy fuel and change fuel filters in my PSD every 50-60K miles instead of the 15K recommended. I did buy a new pleated paper air filter 2-3 yrs ago I really should install, Maybe later today!
There's no sparkplugs, or plug wires, but then the gas engines in the Wife's SUV & my car don't have plug wires anymore either, and both have over 100K on the factory plugs. Exhaust systems last longer.
The biggest cost adder on maintenance is the fact most diesels hold more oil, and oil filters are larger, and cost more. But considering the fuel economy increase the cost per mile is still less even with slightly more expensive diesel fuel. All the advantages of a diesel engine still apply to an engine used seasonally, it just extends the time to payback. If the deisel engine wasn't cheaper to operate over-all you can bet every trucking co, construction co., and any other mobile power-user would still be using gasoline.
glippert
Well-known member
Gary Smyth -
Nice work, getting your oil leak identified. The cardboard shroud really worked well to show exactly where it's coming from. I know how you feel (like doing surgery by phone); I was equally intimidated by the thought of doing any mechanical work the first time. But you have a full staff of 'brain surgeons' on this forum to advise you on this procedure! Actually, if you haven't already removed the pto/clutch assembly, I don't think you'll have any problem. I've taken off a couple and never had much trouble. And I like Don T's idea of sinking a sheet metal screw into the old seal to give you something to grip onto and pull out the old seal. Keep taking pictures and keep us all posted on your progress!
Nice work, getting your oil leak identified. The cardboard shroud really worked well to show exactly where it's coming from. I know how you feel (like doing surgery by phone); I was equally intimidated by the thought of doing any mechanical work the first time. But you have a full staff of 'brain surgeons' on this forum to advise you on this procedure! Actually, if you haven't already removed the pto/clutch assembly, I don't think you'll have any problem. I've taken off a couple and never had much trouble. And I like Don T's idea of sinking a sheet metal screw into the old seal to give you something to grip onto and pull out the old seal. Keep taking pictures and keep us all posted on your progress!
jbaker
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- jeff l baker
Nick H my tiller is in the bottem holes also it rides about 5 inchs off the ground when raised, the lift arm has about 5 inchs of travel up and down, there are 6 links in each lift chain, my chain adjuster is at mid point, and there is slack in the chain when lowered on flat ground. here are a few pics. hope this helps and show us some pics of yours
