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Archive through April 28, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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kide

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Gerry Ide
Dennis: do the (OT) 317's use the same quality SKF joints that Dave used ? the only balance issue I can see is the bolt based yoke pin he used instead of a roll pin, as it is asymmetrical, with the head on one side of the yoke. I would counter your concern about the pump bearing getting grief ( I assume from imbalance induced vibration ), with the thought that once the rag joint components start deteriorating, There's got to be vibration there, also.... Your thoughts?
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Harry B - The two QL motors I have, 14 and 16 hp do not have balance gears or the shaft (for lack of a better word) where they might have been.

I know that somewhere around the QL time frame, Wheelhorse also used isolators on their tractors. Don't know if JD did or Simplicity. I don't know if IH was the first with isolators, I can't imaging them reacting to WH having them and adding isolators to meet/match what their competitors were doing. I do know that the WH design used a one piece cradle vs two independent bars like IH did and haven't heard any reports of bad isolators and certainly no damage to the engine oil pan, etc as happened with the QL series. I don't know for sure if the WH K341 engines had balance gears or not, I'll have to ask my WH Brethren. Don't know if the balance gears were standard across the board with Kohler for all engines or would have been an option. I do know that WH sold a lot of 16 hp tractors, don't know if they were 12 or 13 fin either. I don't know the numbers everyone was selling yearly in tractors, except Cub Cadet numbers. My impression is IH sold a TON of Cub Cadets as witnessed by the shear number of tractors you can still find for sale. IMHO, only WH comes close to that. Having said that, it would be interesting to know what IH management thought of with respect to their garden tractor competition. For whatever reason, I kind of feel/think that IH was blazing a trail and likely could have cared less what their competition was doing.
 
Jon: Even though Charlie says there is no"contact us" on his web sites, he still has a way to email him. The wording is a matter of semantics and nit-picking.
 
Richard J.
It's NOT a matter of matter of semantics and nit-picking. It's a matter of Jon S. trying to email another website thinking is was mine, that doesn't do business on the weekends and is only open when it feels like it.
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Since that's out of the way and no further comments are needed. Back to,discussion about IH Garden Tractors and Equipment built prior to 1981.
 
My 1200 with a K 301 Governor Bushing backed off and the governor came unhooked and oil started to leak. The engine was still running fine.
To repair the governor does this call for a major rebuild.
I have never been inside of an engine
 
Sorry, Charlie. I feel like a complete idiot now. I had read other's posts and ASSUMED that was your sponsoring site. I know that was my mistake. I apologize. But if you don't mind, who was I sending those messages to?
 
Hey all - picking up a 169 this morning and wondering if there's any way to tell for sure if it really is a 169 and not an imposter?
 
GERRY - From my buddy who has several O/T 317's, JD has used several different types & brands of u-joints over the years. None seem to last as long as the original's however. And the price has continued to climb to about what the price of a complete running tractor brings now. Some were greasable, some were sealed, none seemed to last 500 hours and some even a lot less.

I can't remember what brand/model Dave used in his tractor, but I remember they were BIG bulky things. When running 3600 RPM a little imbalance makes a LOT of added stress on the input shaft bearings of the Sundstrand 15U. The small 5/8" dia shaft and yokes & rag joints weigh a fraction of what a driveshaft with u-joints weighs, which reduces the stress on the input shaft & bearings a LOT. Plus the OEM shaft is "Piloted", which means if the rag joints are in any kind of decent shape the shaft shouldn't cause much vibration or wear because it can't get off-center.

I remember when I replaced the rag joints in my 129 10-12 yrs ago I thought the price was highway robbery for two pieces of cut conveyor belt. But they're cheap compared to what it would cost to repair the damage a flailing driveshaft would cause if the rear yoke came off the input shaft of the hydro. Plus the hospital bills possible when/if the driveshaft comes out of the frame right between your legs.

A 782 like Jon is working on has a solid mounted engine, there's no need for u-joints to correct misalignment of the shafts, just careful reassembly of OEM components.

FRANK WATSON - You should be able to get your K301 running again by just re-installing the bronze bushing. Hopefully the finger welded/riveted to the governor shaft hasn't been dislodged. You will need to reset the governor & throttle adjustment. I don't understand what you mean by "Governor came UNHOOKED", but it sounds like the gov. shaft, bronze bushing, governor lever & linkage to the carb throttle was hanging loose. The finger on the gov. shaft should have kept the back end of the shaft inside the block. If your shaft fell completely out of the engine, then the finger was broken off and engine dis-assembly will be required. The new shaft w/finger has to be installed from inside the engine.
 
Terry after picking up the 169 Do Not Forget to send Art some data
 
Paul, Jeff and Bill - thanks for your insite into the IH "Quiet Line" and Kohler AQS (Q for Quiet) engines, rubber ISO-mounts, etc. Bill - I do think IH was concerned with the competition, since it does appear that's why they added the 16hp engine to the 169, and then their literature for the Quiet Line 1650 mentions it being the most powerful Cub Cadet built. I think competition did alot to drive their whole business, in part why they got into the Garden Tractor business.

Terry D - I'm surprised Jeff also didn't mention to have a look inside the dash pedestal, for the numbers "169" to be hand written on either inside side panels. This is an undocumented sure-fire way to know it's a true factory built 169, besides having a frame serial tag numbered 2050048U_ _ _ _ _ _
 
Dennis Frisk:

My governor brass bushing came un screwed from the K301 engine causing the engine to rev up and oil leaking from where the brass bushing was located. The governor shaft is lose but will not pull out of the engine block..
So by what you are saying I should be able to screw the brass bushing back in place. Then I can push the shaft back in place. With the engine not running there is no tension on the Governor shaft.
After I have reinstalled every thing and start there should be tension on the Governor?
 
But Charlie it says IH on the decal!....ok ok sorry wont happen again! ps sorry Don for dragging you with.
 
Hey all- I'm the guy asking about the sloppy steering on a 122. Well I got her out yesterday for the first cut of the season, charged battery, fresh fuel- started right up and cut. I did notice I've got about 1/4 wheel revolution before I see ANY movement down at the steering knuckle: tie rod end or cap. That makes me think stuff is sloppy down in the steering box. Haven't gone in yet, trying to get the Volvo back on the road...Dave
 
Dave P - it's not just a matter of what you "see". You need to check the cap on the steering knuckly, and check each ball joint, and there is a ball joint on the bottom of the steering box as well.
 
Charlie "Digger" Proctor

come now charlie ; you know that thingamagiggy down on the left axle by the wheel . lol

I just have to tell you that I`am running my 1512 with just a tea shirt ,it is so warm here today. No snow to be found .
 

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