Have what I think is a fairly common problem with a 122 frame - hairline cracks where engine bolts on. Curious what others have done to fix the problem. Or, should I just tighten everything down good and leave it alone. Thought about thin shims but worried about alignment issues. Trying to avoid unsightly welds if possible. Thanks
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Archive through April 28, 2013
- Thread starter kide
- Start date
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TERRY - Looks like that crack is in the frame rail where the frt axle channel welds on. I'd weld it up and grind the weld snooth & flush. And weld it from both sides too, top & bottom.
The frame cracked because of stress, more use could cause it to break and then you have a LOT bigger problem.
Not sure what you intended to "Shim", but I wouldn't do that. The engine should sit flat & level on the frame.
The frame cracked because of stress, more use could cause it to break and then you have a LOT bigger problem.
Not sure what you intended to "Shim", but I wouldn't do that. The engine should sit flat & level on the frame.
Hi Terry
Mike from Clinton here. I follow the crack with my hand grinder and make a slight "V" and fill with weld. I just like knowing it's solid as it once was and it only takes a little time if ya got the equipment. Sounds like your working your way into a "Pickers" TV show soon. Ya gotta love going out and checking out all the cool stuff people have been collecting for years...now if they will just part with some of it. Good luck.
Mike from Clinton here. I follow the crack with my hand grinder and make a slight "V" and fill with weld. I just like knowing it's solid as it once was and it only takes a little time if ya got the equipment. Sounds like your working your way into a "Pickers" TV show soon. Ya gotta love going out and checking out all the cool stuff people have been collecting for years...now if they will just part with some of it. Good luck.
I'm not a welder but I seem to recall reading that one should drill a small hole at the ends of the crack before welding. Supposedly this will prevent it from cracking again and spreading. Any truth to this?
Mike and others - thanks much for the tips and sounds like its welding time! I honestly thought about leaving it be but that would always be in the back of my mind. And yes Mike - love pickin but like you said - tough to gettem off stuff. Guy yest was pushin 80 and still had plans for everything! Cantankerous old fart but he'll probably out live me and end up with my crap!! Thanks again.
Kraig,
In the aircraft industry we used to "stop drill" the ends of a crack in structure to prevent it from growing any further in length. This was strictly a "time limited" temporary repair until the operator could bring the aircraft in for a permanent repair installation which always involves removal of the cracked structure. Most aluminum alloys in aircraft are not the weldable variety. In more recent years the FAA has pretty much discontinued allowing this temporary repair practice.
Back on topic: Likewise, the only benefit for stop drilling (1/8" to 3/16" D) an active crack in a Cub Cadet frame would be to temporarily stop it from growing longer until a permanent repair can be performed, like within a month or two. When a permanent weld repair is accomplished the stop drill hole is welded closed. The benefits of doing this that I can think of are:
1. By drilling it at the end of the crack it helps ensure that you have removed the end tip of the crack so it doesn't start growing again after the weld repair.
2. It gives you a clear start point and ending point for your weld.
A small Vee-grove along the length of the crack will help remove the crack and ensure good penetration of the weld through the thickness. I'd recommend welding a crack with a MIG welder as one has better control of the heat which helps minimize the heat affected zone. Once the weld is complete grind smooth and reassemble.
In the aircraft industry we used to "stop drill" the ends of a crack in structure to prevent it from growing any further in length. This was strictly a "time limited" temporary repair until the operator could bring the aircraft in for a permanent repair installation which always involves removal of the cracked structure. Most aluminum alloys in aircraft are not the weldable variety. In more recent years the FAA has pretty much discontinued allowing this temporary repair practice.
Back on topic: Likewise, the only benefit for stop drilling (1/8" to 3/16" D) an active crack in a Cub Cadet frame would be to temporarily stop it from growing longer until a permanent repair can be performed, like within a month or two. When a permanent weld repair is accomplished the stop drill hole is welded closed. The benefits of doing this that I can think of are:
1. By drilling it at the end of the crack it helps ensure that you have removed the end tip of the crack so it doesn't start growing again after the weld repair.
2. It gives you a clear start point and ending point for your weld.
A small Vee-grove along the length of the crack will help remove the crack and ensure good penetration of the weld through the thickness. I'd recommend welding a crack with a MIG welder as one has better control of the heat which helps minimize the heat affected zone. Once the weld is complete grind smooth and reassemble.
mfrade
Well-known member
Hydro!!??!! That's it! That's all you took away? I gotta stop typing?? No further thought(s) regarding the noisy cub syndrome? No thought input on NVH? HMMmmmm..
Well, I'll add a thought I've had, and it involves you're beloved 13 fin motor. I'm theorizing Kohler tried a run of blocks that were cast heavier in the cylinder area in a test of quieting operation.
Of course I have no proof, just an idea.
Well, I'll add a thought I've had, and it involves you're beloved 13 fin motor. I'm theorizing Kohler tried a run of blocks that were cast heavier in the cylinder area in a test of quieting operation.
Of course I have no proof, just an idea.
hydroharry
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Mike - the 13fin cast seems to have been the original casting best I can tell, and in existence at least a few years before the 169 era. I think we have all wondered why Kohler changed the casting to the 12fin with a thinner wall block, and maybe it is more like you're saying, something to do with the quietness. I sure wish they would'a asked me - I just love the ole shake, rattle and roll. I think quietness should be addressed with a muffler.
