Archive through April 28, 2010

[kweaver]

Eric - Congrats. I quit HS with 1.5 years to go, I got out and got educated !
The thick bushing goes on the front side of the channel. Make sure it gets lined up good before you have them welded on with a <u>MIG</u>. Might be good idea to run a 3/4" bolt through it and tighten a nut up to keep it positioned.


Charlie must be napping ...

 

[elthomas]

Yeah He must be, And thanks again, I am going to have one of the welders at my stepdad's shop to weld it on, as I can weld, but I also am no professional welder.

My welding is getting better, but I trust someone who has been doing it for 30 yrs over my 3 yers of experience.

 

[kweaver]

37 years ... but whose counting

 

[kide]

Ref: Setting timing...
Kohler provided the <u>static</u> timing method for those cases where the mechanic might not have a timing light... Gapping the points DOES NOT guarantee getting spark at the proper time (which is actually the time at which the ignition fires while the piston on its compression stroke) The critical measurement is how far down in the cylinder the piston is when the spark occurs ---because there is a finite amount of time the the flame front takes to travel and ignite the charge, ignition takes place BEFORE the piston reaches top dead center. There is no direction correlation between point gap and position of the piston - the correlation is the position of the piston WHEN the points open, which is why using a timing light on a running engine (or a VOM on a static engine) is preferable to just setting point gap. If you get the "fire" mark on the flywheel painted white, it's not all that bad using the timing light through that hole on the right hand side of the tractor - unless you've got a loader.

Changing point gap and seeing a change in spark on a battery ignition engine (not magneto) is usually a factor of reduced or increased dwell angle, which is the time that the points are closed, during which the coil is saturated (electrically) before the points open, causing the collapse of the magnetic field, inducing the high voltage in the secondary of the coil (yer spark).

I believe that Kohler gives the best spec for a stock engine, and would venture a guess that in most cases that's the best place to set the timing at....if not, the most productive way to change timing would be using a small engine dyno so that you don't cook off the top of the piston or burn the valves..

 

[kide]

Kentuck:
45 years, but nobody's ever paid me....(and my welds don't look like a stack of dimes , but they hold and don't look like bird s..t either)

 

[rbarnes]

I have been searching the archives for answers but have not found what I’m looking for yet so I figured I would ask a question. I recently purchased a 127 over the winter and I finally put the deck on it to mow but I couldn’t get the throttle to maintain a steady rpm. So I adjusted the governor and found that the butterfly was broken off and sitting in the oil pan. I purchased a new one and put it in(that was an ordeal) and with everything adjusted correctly and set right it still wants to over rev, mostly while going down hill. It does smoke a little bit on start up but goes away, I also noticed that the engine seemed tight and good, and the piston was a 0.010 over so it may have been done recently. Thanks for reading…btw I do enjoy reading the forum.. So much info!!

 

[dtanner]

K G Ide
Thanks for the timming info, wow that would have taken me two hrs to do with my two fingers hard at work. And then spell check and proof read,make that another thirty minutes to correct my errors. Now you see why I only answer easy stuf with hardley any typeing. I know lots but won`t post because of this handycap.

 

[kweaver]

KG - Yea that's what's always bothered me about checking the timing on my K301s. I'm use to turning the distributor to get the timing set and since the Kohlers don't have one I never thought much of timing one.

From my saved files in the Machine Shop thread :

Timing.txt
By Matt Domenic (Mdomenic) on Tuesday, April 10, 2001 - 06:32 pm:


Kenny-Joe,

If you suspect the cam timing is indeed off you can try this to check without pulling the motor.
1. Pull the head
2. Turn crank until piston is at TDC and both valves are overlapping.
3. Both valves should be open slightly and the same height as the piston dwells from all the way up to going down or (BTDC to ATDC).
4. Now! If the piston is at or very near Top Dead Center and both valves are not open equally than the cam timing may be off a tooth.

I have two K-301's on my shop floor and both did the same as described above.

If you have set the points and you have spark about the only thing left is carburetion. Is it getting fuel? These things will run on WD-40 if you suspect a fuel delivery problem. Not recommended, but when trouble shooting
anything goes to sort out problems.

 

[mgonitzke]

Richard B.-

Did you reset the governor arm properly as per the manual? If you did, and it's still doing this, you may have to adjust it to slow it down. It says in the manual which way you have to turn it to do this; I can't remember off the top of my head. I had the same problem with a freshly-rebuilt K241. Drove me nuts until I figured it out, as it was the last thing I was expecting.

 

[kweaver]

I bet it's this

 

[kweaver]

shoulda done this one too

 

[mgonitzke]

If it isn't that, it's the relationship between the governor arm and cross shaft that needs to be adjusted. That's what I meant before, just to clarify.

 

[kide]

Ahhh the Great Governor Debate of 2009....

Kentuck:
Good point on cam timing...also, I can't remember if Kohler gives the spec for piston depth at "fire"..that's nice to have if you've got the head off (and the most accurate..)..
Don:
Two fingers...I used so many different keyboards in 40 plus years -IBM 1052, various ASR and KSR teletype, Burroughs SPO, PC etc. that I use three fingers on my left hand and one on the right...don't know why but that's what I ended up with..

 

[jbaker]

I have been reading my new cub book, Kraig or anyone do you have a photo of the ROPS option that they talk about that is very rare it sounds interesting and i would like to see what it looks like installed.

 

[gsmyth]

I believe I found the source. Is this a seal fix? What next? By the way. If this is a seal fix am I looking at the front or rear seal?

 

[kweaver]

KG - I've got everything down-loadable from Kohler's website for our little K-engines and I've not seen any mention of piston depth. That would be a very good question to inquire about ... let me know what they say

Matt - I knew what you meant , he might not have though.

 

[kweaver]

Gary - That's the rear of the engine. PTO side to be correct.
I don't see any "fer sure" oil leak. Everything is still to dirty and pic is to small.
Where do you think it is leaking ?

 

[kweaver]

Gary - Is it hydraulic fluid or engine oil ?
From that pic it looks to me like it could be a hydraulic leak spraying back on everything.
Feel free to email me a full size pic if you want to.

Oh and as Charlie says, "HIT ENTER after every pic"

 

[jbaker]

Gary I have to ask like Ken oil or hytran? it looks like its coming from the front hydro lines.
Are you having to add motor oil? if not you better check the hydro/rearend fluid....

 

[ljones]

I have white somoke blowing out of the engin breather it lasts a little while then goes away then comes back if you put your hand close to it you can feel air blowing out what do I need to
do to fix this?