Archive through April 28, 2010

[cledford]

QL mid-carriage deck hanger?

I grew up with a 1200 w/ 44" deck and just purchased a 1650 (project) with 50" and a 1450 (to mow with) with 44". The 1200 belonged to my dad. I pulled the deck many times and never recall any "mid" carriage (or whatever it's called) pins for the deck. The 1650 doesn't have them either. The 1450 came with them – as shown in pic. Are they optional?

Thanks,

-Calvin

 

[kweaver]

Calvin - Some decks were "QA" Quick Attach and others are Pin On.

 

[dross]

Kentucky, Jeff, those instructions are why I don't bother with a timing light on a kohler. It just leads to confusion. To set the timing you need to find out where the engine wants it to be. To much lead and it noses over (labors) to little and it's lazy. The wrong carb settings can do the same thing. confused yet. I start (with a unknown engine) with the points, set them at 18 (cause that whats worked best for a lot of my engines) or 20 where the book says. REMEMBER that number because if you have problems later you can check your timing with the points.Get a feel for how much drag you have on the feeler gauge. Make sure you stay consistant with that. It should drag through the points but not move them when you slide the gauge in between them. When you get them set turn it over a few times and check them again. If it didn't change see if it'll start. Take the plug out and with the wire on it hold it against the block and turn the engine over with the key, look for a blue spark, if it's real hot you might even hear a snap. If it's redish to orange, the engine may run but there is somthing else wrong.
Jeff, If it still won't run (with the plug back in) put your hand down by the seam between the block and head and see if you don't feel a puff of air. I had a head gasket go on the flywheel side this spring but that was the first one I've ever had, usually they blow near the exhaust.

 

[jbaker]

Dave/Ken and all thanks so far, I have to head off tgo work and will try to get some time thursday or friday to indulge in this more.
on a side note will a k301 from a 128 bolt up the same in the 1200 or is the frame altered from the 128 to 1200QL??

 

[kmcconaughey]

Calvin, that part of the mower deck sub-frame is usually just a flat piece with one slotted end and one hole, they all have them. The one you have shown is an adjustable hanger to level the deck side to side. Not sure if that came standard on the later decks or if it was an option. I bet the one on the other side is the normal style you remember.

Under Edit: A quick look at the QL Manual and it appears that one adjustable link came on the 44" and 50" decks. The older style 38" deck still had just the plane non-adjustable links on each side.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Calvin, from a QL Operator's Manual.

I just noticed that the photo for the 38" deck shows a non-adjustable link but the text says it's adjustable.

 

[kweaver]

Dave - I've never timed one of mine. I need to check the 122 engine on the 127 'cause it has starting problems BUT since the steering box is shot it doesn't get used. I have a SGT why use anything else

Jeff - I don't think the oil pan is different but that would be the only thing to check on the swap.

Donald - I put my boots on ! That hole in the blower housing that you first posted is a Kohler made hole. My 129 engine has that hole and the coil bracket is bolted in it. My original 127 engine has that hole but the coil is mounted higher almost where the Kohler tag would be if it was there.

Kraig - My 42" is non adjustable

 

[dfrisk]

DAVE R. - Did you have a really loose head bolt on that engine that blew the head gasket on the side towards the flywheel?

I've been around Kohler engines 40-50 yrs and have never heard of one blowing there. They always go by the exhaust port as you say.

I have had the head bolts loosen after several years of running, and the head gaskets will leak a bit, they'll "Whistle" when you crank the engine to start. That means it's time to grab the torque wrench! I retorqued the head on the old K241 3-4 times during the 1400 hours it was in the 72.

 

[sbauer]

Has anyone purchased any of Kirk Engines parts? I was wonder if any of them may make a noticable difference on my 782? Thanks for the input.

 

[gsmyth]

Cub Cadet 1450. Can someone tell me where the lift points are on a 1450? Will the rear axle permit jack stand supports? Where is placement for the front-- do I use the lifting frame?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve, I have the Bosch Blue coil, the PointSaver, the high Performance ignition wire, the performance cam, the aluminum fuel pump cover and remote breather vent cover and the Nylock wing nut for the air filter cover on the 12hp Killer Kohler in my 125. All good stuff.

Oooo, I see David added an analog tach. Nice!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Gary, if your 1450 has the outboard rear brakes that might interfere with jack stands. You should be able to lift it darn near any place you can get a-hold of it. On my model 125s I've used a floor jack under the rear differential, I've used jack stands under each axle, I've used a floor jack under the front axle, I've used jack stands under the front axle, I've used jack stands under the frame at about mid point. What do you have planned that you need to lift it?

 

[dtanner]

Kraig

I had a look at the tack and I don`t see prices anywhere ? I hate it when no prices are posted on sites

. I do like the look of the tack . my .02

 

[kweaver]

I've been thinking about making one of these

 

[junderwood]

Don,

You seem to be having a lot of problems seeing things lately. Maybe you need new glasses. The tach is $80 + $5 shipping. Listed right at the bottom of the description on his web page.

 

[wshytle]

Gary-

I would use some small wood blocks between the jack and the rearend as well. It's not to protect anything but reduces the risk of slipage. Steel will slip off of steel a lot faster than off of a piece of wood. Whatever you do be careful; gravity never sleeps (except on the space shuttle).

My .02 worth...

 

[dtanner]

John Underwood

How did you know I have glasses lol. The problem is Mozilla Firefox browser does not show all that is there to see.

 

[rnajecki]

Steve,

Like Kraig, a few years ago I bought Bosch blue coils, PointSavers, wingnuts, and magnetic oil plugs for both my 149's. One of the PointSavers went bad nearly a year later and Dave quickly replaced it for me without waiting for me to return the bad unit. Does it make a difference? I don't know, but my 149's always start right up and run just fine.

Now I see he has this PointSlayer which makes me want to upgrade. And get the battery mat and analog tach - though I wish he had those before I bought TinyTachs.

The only problem with Kirk Engines is that he keeps coming out with really neat things you want. Like that ignition wire that is better than OEM at half the cost. His website is the Cub Cadet version of the Sears Christmas catalog.

 

[rnajecki]

Jeff,

Here are some photos of the timing hole on my 149. The first photo shows the hole in the mirror - note the Starter/Generator has been removed. The second and third photos show the flywheel markings: OC and SP - both have index lines above the letters.

 

[dross]

Jeff, I'd be more worried about the charging systems. You'd have to keep the regulator to make the SG work and forget about the side panels.