Archive through April 26, 2014

[hydroharry]

Brian E - my message got to big for one post. I got high hopes you're gonna have a Kohler K301 that runs better than you ever remember, and a 124 that really performs (even tho it's a gear drive and I'm a hydro guy).

I also see Mike H chimed in about some MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil). Lots of guys swear by it in the gas tank, and many like to add it to the oil as well. Both claim it helps reduce or avoid any carbon build up on the piston and head. At this point since you don't know of your head ever having been removed and decarboned, I wouldn't use any MMO. If it runs good after you decarbon the head then you can decide if you want to use it.

 

[bellwood]

@Hydro Harry:

Yes, tune-up is a more appropriate term for sure.

I gaped the points to .020 and the plug to .025 (it came .030) using feeler gauges.

I did a full oil change on it when it came on the property about 2-3 years ago knowing it would be sitting for a while... Same thing with the air filter; we bought those things by the dozens up as the fields up at camp were so dusty... We'd go through at least one every weekend of mowing

I did check the rest of the manual for things to check like the reduction housing oil level... To my knowledge that's never been checked so I'll be doing that.

Sounds like the last items on my tune-up list are:

-decarbon the head
-valve-to-tappet gap check
-timing
-reduction housing oil level

I'm hoping to get the mule and deck belts off today and confirm the ones I need so I can get them ordered up along with checking the blades on the deck, etc, etc. Stupid question but when you measure a belt, do they go by OD or ID? I'm going to string measure mine to extra confirm the ones I need.

In regards to MMO, my father-in-laws uncle (who owned the camp) swore by the stuff... I doubt he ever used it in the fuel/oil systems though.

Thanks all =)

 

[bwittman]

Brian E.,

According to a very good friend of mine, who is a small engine mechanic, Marvel Mystery Oil used as a gasoline additive is a great idea, because the gasoline of today isn't at all what that Kohler engine was originally designed to burn. MMO provides upper cylinder lubricant, in place of the leaded gasoline of yesteryear.

I use about 3/4-1 ounce of MMO to each gallon of gas. That seems to provide the best formula without fouling the spark plug in my 1250. Just my opinion here, but I would not use MMO in the crankcase. I think it, as any additive would, interfere with the lubricating properties of the engine oil, and break down its rated viscosity. Especially in summer, that K-301 needs the full lubricating properties of a high-quality SAE 30 oil, especially due to heat.

 

[mmiller]

Joel G, I've got some more pics of the brakes on that Original somewhere. I'll try to find them.

 

[jgoodine]

That would be great Michael M.

By a stroke of luck I happen to come across couple pics of my 1650 (quite) line. We lost all are pics a couple years ago, I owned this tractor for about 8-9 years, did a lot off work with it, it was not completely finished in these pics, hoses look like a mess, but it sure saved my back.

 

[bellwood]

Hey all...

Dropped the mower deck today and removed the belt shields... What a mess... All the pulleys had grease all over them, the belt was greased over completely and in general it was a cluster...

Cleaned the entire thing up, greased it up nicely

The mule belt in general looked to be in good condition BUT in the spots where it had sat against a pulley it was in rough shape

Is there any reason NOT to buy an off-brand belt for these?

Side note, my carb appears to be leaking... The first night after I did the rebuild on it, it sat overnight no issue... This afternoon when I went down there was a small puddle under the carb and drop on the carb bowl nut (nothing leaking from the actual bowl though) I shut the fuel off in the meantime and did tighten the nut up a bit...

 

[jgoodine]

Brian I bought a gates belt for my 125, I had no problems with it. I did have trouble with my clutch, ghurrh, that was before I was a member on this forum, but if you buy it from one of the sponsors like cc specialties you will be sure your getting the right one for your tractor.

 

[hydroharry]

Brian E - If you want the best belts, last the longest, and really fit, then I do suggest you stick with the original Cub Cadet belts. You can get NAPA green stripe (something like that) that might last a couple years, or even have guys swear by them. Or you could get some of the other brands, but I've seen some tore up after a few uses and some last just a couple years. The correct Cub Cadet belts will probably last you 5-10 years or even longer, depending on how much you use them and how well you take care of everything. It's one item I wouldn't cheap out on but it might just be me.

Back to your carb again, hopefully you had the little washer gasket that goes on the bolt holding the bowl. If you didn't have one I'm pretty certain it will leak. Also, the bowls are known to develop a slight crack in the bottom around the bolt area. You probably have to remove the bowl and look from the inside. You can get a steel replacement bowl from Kirk's Engines (in those colorful boxes above) and never have this problem again (I guess), or you can get an original Kohler bowl from Cub Cadet Specialties (also in those colorful boxes), and the correct CC belts as well - with a $10 flat shipping rate to boot. You might want to wait and put in one big order, maybe get your HyTran rearend fluid if you're gonna change it, and what ever else you need (maybe some paint or a snazy new seat, are your front wheel bearing good?).

We're still waiting on the pics. We need to see what you got.

 

[bellwood]

I can't argue there... Just hurts dropping $60 on belts

I'm headed up to camp tomorrow and I'm hoping we'll have some belts and other maintenance items on hand so I can save my duckets =)

I'm also told that one of the garages up there has the PTO snowthrower in it so I'll be bringing that down tomorrow to get cleaned up and ready for the winter

I'll get some pics up shortly =)

...and yes I did place a new gasket on the carb bowl nut

 

[bellwood]

As promised, here are the pics:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152347989470498.1073741831.510790497&type=1&l=a6566e1a3e

Thats a public link so you DONT need a Facebook account to see them

I'll add photos of the snow thrower once I get it down tomorrow... I've never seen it so who knows =)

 

[hydroharry]

Brian E - dang, that's alot nicer looking 124 than I was expecting. Got a Creeper, Rear Weight Box, and a pretty darn good looking seat too. Not sure what those things are under the seat but sure hope they ain't cracking the fiber glass. Lotta guys on here would die for a seat looks half that good. The muffler looks alot better than I thought too. I think you're gonna have a nice 124 when you got her all back to good running condition.

 

[bellwood]

@Harry: Thanks, my father in law and his uncle always tried their best to take care of their stuff...

We have some ollld gravelys up there that run pretty well, you know, once you rip your arms off getting them started =)

What you're seeing under the seat are dog toys and was their answer to the lack of OEM air-ride No cracking or other issues.

Hoping to find a timing light up there tomorrow too...

 

[pfeenstra]

Finally had some good cub time this morning.

 

[kostendorf]

I picked up tiller and two cultivators today. Looks like a #1 tiller with a 1A gear box. Does Charlie or anyone sell the bearing for this gear box? The bottom shaft has side play so either the bearing needs replaced or the shaft is wore at the bearing. I will have to take it apart to find out. The tiller seems to be in very good shape but I'm worried about the gear box.

 

[rgreenly]

Keith..Nice looking dirt toys!!

 

[hydroharry]

Brian E - I was surprised at how good most of the paint looks. Looks like a good "wash and wax" will bring alot of shine right back to that original paint - but then, some guys just prefer this units in their work clothes.

I noticed your air cleaner cover has alot of gas staining so the carb must have been leaking for quite some time. Hope your little extra snug on the bowl bolt fixed it right up but you'll have to check it. I thought maybe you might'a been needing those little rubbers that go on each end of the fuel line but your leak didn't quite sound like that. Worth checking round each end tho and making sure you ain't got any drips.

Keith O - pretty darn good looking tiller there. I don't see Charlie having the "Thumbs Up" on the thrower/tiller bearings but you might check with him. Otherwise, they are fairly common bearings you should be able to match up. One thing I never really understood is why IH used an outer bearing that only had the seal on the outside. Once you remove the bearings you'll see there is no way for the grease from the box to flow to the outer bearing. There's space where the outer one mounts for you to install extra grease but no way to ever access it again. Because of this I always install a new bearing with seals on both sides. Maybe an engineer type of here could tell us why IH did it.

 

[jbaker]

Dethathing up in Pauls neck of the woods, must mean spring

 

[kfreeman]

Brian E.,

The timing can be set with an ohm meter, as well. Matt Gonitzke has instructions on his web site.

http://www.mgonitzke.net/cubcadet/tools/static_timing.pdf

 

[mschutz]

Brian E, Very nice 124. You lucky dog. Hard to find one in that good of shape. Make sure your glass bowl is not leaking.

 

[jgoodine]

Brian E, that 124 is really nice, somebody sure appreciated it along the way, I'm glad you are gonna keep it up.