Archive through April 24, 2010

[rnajecki]

Paul,
Thanks for the quick reply.
Roy

 

[stanner]

Phillip,
Welcome, check here:
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/WF%203PT%20Install.pdf

If your tractor has this stuff on the rear, then you're good to go...

 

[kide]

Steve - from the WFM forum:
"The kit #'s are 2575717S, 2575716S, and 2575715S. You need to break down your carb and measure the shaft prior to ordering.".. I sent you a link to the entire discussion thread..
Annnnnnnndddd ..... CC Specialties lists them ....

 

[nbartee]

Ken,

Thanks for the info. I don't know anything about hydraulics but I think this is single acting. In any case, I'll dress the rust spot best I can.

Thanks for your help,

Norm

 

[fcurrier]

Glenn Shaffer: I think Don T. can field your question when he gets back from vacation.

 

[dtanner]

Glenn Schaffer:
I bought trailer high speed stub axles. You can see where I added gussets for extra strength .

They can be greased with out taking them apart

Not much sense building a loader and not be able to carry the weight of a full bucket, So I had this done to my 129 loader. I think P F Engineering has plans for this upgrade.

 

[fcurrier]

Toldja!

 

[jbaker]

I am out trying to start the 128 after a engine change out. I need help electricaly.
When I hook up the battery the engine begins to crank so either a short or wiring is wrong both which I double checked to my wiring diagraghm and they seem fine.
I soppose the ingnition switch could be bad I did have some starting issues begining when i did the motor switch out.
any ideas what to check from here I am frustrated at the moment and will atack it again tomorrow

 

[jbaker]

Scott, my tiller did tear thru grass but it took several tilling rounds to make it nice, the garden I till at home has been crop land its whole life so it tills easy

 

[dwoodcock]

Hello everyone, I have been lurking on this site for a while and recently registered. I have had the early Cub "bug" for a while. I picked this up today and cant wait to get started. This thing was mowing as recently as last Wednesday, see the clippings on the deck, got the snow plow and the original owners manual as well. Probably going to have to rebuild the carb but I think this will make a great project.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w150/woodyxjs/cub1.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w150/woodyxjs/cub2.jpg

 

[wluikey]

Hi Guys,
I have 3 Cub Cadets and a Wheelhorse that are in various stages or restoration.
One of my Cubs has a Hydrostatic tramnmission. 2 years ago I pulled the engine and parked it in my workshop. I tried moving it last week and I wasn't able to move the shift lever. Seems to be frozen and the rear wheels are locked.

I don't have any manuals for the transmission and I don't want to break something trying to force parts to move.

Can someone give me advice on how to proceed with correcting this problem?

Thanks.

Wally

 

[jbaker]

Ok ran I one more test on the 128 starting, I have continunty from all terminals on the voltage reg to the starter generator posts.
I tested on the 149 and did not have the same result

 

[sblunier]

Jeff,

Make sure the cut out relay in the V/R isn't stuck closed....

 

[wshytle]

Wally-

If the brake return spring is missing the pedal will rest in the down position and can lock the shifter and the rear wheels.

Something to check anyhow...good luck.

 

[tstewart]

Does anyone have the dimensions for the parts for the helper spring assembly? I have a spring but no other parts. Would like to fab something up if I can. But since I dont have one handy I was hoping someone could take some measurements for me or point me in the right direction if someone has written up something about this before. I am sure this will help immensely when I finally get that tiller mounted up! My 10" brinly aint that light either.

Secondly, for the tiller, in the Faq's under tiller belts I'm a little confused... I bought it from Ray Leo who had it on his 147. I'm trying to confirm the long belt will work with my tractors. Only problem is I dont see 147 even listed?

Whats more, it indicates a different belt for a 129 than it does a 1000

. My deck uses the same belt (I often swap the mule drive and deck between the two) I dont understand why the tiller would use different one if the deck doesnt. Can someone set me straight there... hoping in a couple weeks to be using it for the first time.

 

[aaytay]

Engine assembly question...

There is a link in the FAQ section on how to install piston rings on a piston assembly. It all makes sense, but this last sentence:

"First on the piston should be the expander, followed by the two thin oil rings. Line the gap on the expander up with the wrist pin and the gaps on the oil rings about an inch to either side, one to the left and one to the right. Be extra careful not to overlap the ends of the expander. The oil rings need to seat on the tiny little tabs on the expander, forming an assembly."

That last sentence makes it sound as if the oil rings somehow attach themselves to the expander?? Right now I've got the oil-rings on either side of the expander, but there's certainly no "attaching" going on...

(Don't worry, I know the ring-gaps shouldn't be lined up like that.)

Here is what my oil-rings and expander look like:

<font size="-2">oilring--oilringoilringoilringoilringoilringoilringoilringoilringoilringoilring</font>
WMWMWMWMWMWMW--MWMWMWMWMWMWMWMW
<font size="-2">oilringoilringoilringoilringoilringoilringoilringoilringoilringoilring--oilring</font>

 

[dtanner]

Home of the Plow Special (Aaytay)

Art , I think all there saying is the end of each ring should end on a tab and not where the end of the oil ring is not supported.Some pistons have tabs(pins in the grove) to determine where they are placed. If not I line them up that the end is supported by the expander(not in the hollow with no support for the ring end). hope this helps and you standunder. Don T

( where did you get the piston? I need a .030 for a 12 K I have here)

 

[dtanner]

Waler Luikey

I have a 125 here that the hydro handle was stuck. I sprayed the linkage with P B blaster under the tractor where the top rod from the hydro handle sits on the frame. There is where your linkage is stuck. I had to soak it a few times and would just bump the handle back a forth with my HAND till it broke free.Don`t use a hammer because you will break something.It might take a few days to get it unstuck. good luck . Don T

 

[wmiller]

Don is correct,the oil ring "rails" just set in place. The oil ring assembly if assembled correctly,will move freely in the groove as a unit. Unless you have a piston with "pinned rings" the rings "walk" in the grooves when the engine runs and the end gaps of the two top rings do not stay in the same place and if you took the piston out later they would probably not be where you put them when you assembled the engine. The oil ring also "walks",but the rails will not likely move in relationship to the expander,but the whole assembly moves as a unit. Early engine builders thought the end gaps should never line up so they put pins in the grooves. It was found that ring life was actually better if the rings were allowed to move and if the gaps lined up once in awhile it didn't matter. My son used to work for Perfect Circle as an engineer.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Wow. lots of new guys, WELCOME! To all.

D.W., very nice 122. That seat is in excellent condition, you don't see many with original seats like that these days.