Archive through April 23, 2014

[bellwood]

@Harry: thanks, I wont go using sledge hammers when patience will do =)

Random aside, I seem to be missing whatever the hood rests on, when its closed, up by the console... There are two tabs that come out over the battery that I' m sure at one point either had either springs or rubber spacers that the hood would rest on but at the moment, mine are wrapped in electrical tape

The parts page on cubcadet.com isn't very specific to this part...

Any clue what I might be looking for?

Thanks =)

 

[dcmay]

No Harry,I didn't check the brg.Maybe that is the problem.I took it off another eng and thought it worked on that one.I'll see tomorrow.

 

[glippert]

Michael M - I measure 72-3/4" from the tip of the grill to back of the rear tires, which extend back further than the drawbar. Looks like you should be OK.

 

[mmiller]

Greg L, sounds like it will be a snug fit, but should be ok. Thanks for checking.

Pics to follow tomorrow...

 

[bellwood]

Another question... Where can I find the serial number on my 42" 3-Spindle mow deck?

I need a new belt for the deck and for the drive but the part numbers seem to be different depending on the serial number.

The only number I can find on my deck says: 421 u1116

Thanks

 

[jpatchett]

Brian E.

The 42” mower decks are grouped by years made, 1963-68, 1968-71 & 1971-74. The 42” decks all have the same belt for the spindle drive (IH-477599-R2 size 1/2 X 77""). The PTO drive belt depends on the tractor you are mounting the deck under. Your profile shows you have a 124, which needs a (IH-473462-R4 size 3/8 X 81). This info is in Charlie’s FAQ page1: http://cubfaq.com/belts.html.

I have two 42" decks a 68-71 and 71-74, they both have just an ID tag like yours. I am not aware of any serial numbers.


Jim

 

[hydroharry]

Brian E - on your carb and difficulty removing the float mount pin, for some reason those pins sometimes get a little rusty and corrode in place. I should have mentioned using some type of rust buster or disolving agent like PB Blaster or similar. Suppose you could try WD-40 as well. You'll have to eventually see if you can get the pin to rotate and break loose, just be careful since those mounts are just thin die cast and will break off.

As for your hood rests, I don't think I've ever seen the original rubbers but they are no. 13 in the parts diagram. It shows Qty 4 so 2 are used for the hood rests where it comes down close to the dash, and the other 2 are used on the front where the hood comes down close to the upper grill housing. The few of these units I've had I usually just cut off a piece of auto heater hose and stretched it over. I seem to recall the hood fitting really snug after doing this so the hose material may be a little to thick, but it does work.

Bill QQ - I'd look to see if your Governor spring is in the hole that shows wear. I don't recommend moving the spring around to different holes. Also, that long spring used on the AQS engine is known to wear thru at the hook where it's installed on the governor arm. It's hard to see but it wears the metal so thin the hook will bend open and although the spring may look ok when you remove it you'll actually see that it's bent open at the hook where it's inserted into the governor. Hope you can still get those springs new. If it's not the spring then I'd check to make sure the governor is adjusted correctly. YOu have to loosen that bolt holding the governor arm on the shaft, rotate the shaft the correct direction and make sure the governor arm is rotated fully in correct direction as well, and tighten the bolt back down. Guys with 3 hands can do it really easily. Make sure you follow instructions in the manual since I don't recall the rotation direction details. If you do see the governor is operating the throttle especially like when you put it under load on a hill, and the engine still bogs down more than it should, then it sounds to me more likely your engine is geting tired - either that or your dad blame hill is just to steep.

 

[bellwood]

@Jim: thanks, I guess I could just remove the current belts and string measure them in lieu of a serial number (I have no idea when the deck was purchased)

@Harry: I'll take a fresh look at it today after work. Thanks for the heads up on the rubbers... My hood rattles a good amount so once I get it running again, I definitely want to address that

 

[dschwandt]

Bill QQ, the springs and gov arms fir the AQS are still available. Just got an arm last week from NAPA. Came in a Kohler bag, Nice hefty cad plated piece w/bolt, washer & nut. Going to try welding and re-drilling the hole in the one I took off for a spare.

WEll it's off to Jefferson, WI tonite. Buddy is bringing a NF hydro lift unit w/tiller, lift parts, rock shaft gear box and spring assist parts he picked up near Grand Rapids for me.
Going to install it on my new to me 100 w/creeper and rear PTO that we picked up in SD when "Casey" came home couple weeks back.

 

[jpatchett]

Brian W.

Measuring the belt is always a good idea if you are not sure.

1968-71 mower deck


I always soak carburators in this when I rebuild or service them.

 

[Terry Bishop]

Brian E.

The 42” mower decks are grouped by years made, 1963-68, 1968-71 & 1971-74. The 42” decks all have the same belt for the spindle drive (IH-477599-R2 size 1/2 X 77""). The PTO drive belt depends on the tractor you are mounting the deck under. Your profile shows you have a 124, which needs a (IH-473462-R4 size 3/8 X 81). This info is in Charlie’s FAQ page1: Cub Cadet FAQ.

I have two 42" decks a 68-71 and 71-74, they both have just an ID tag like yours. I am not aware of any serial numbers.


Jim

Hey Jim,
I don’t see the 3/8x81 in that chart but do see a 42" IH-477599-R2-1/2 X 77",
Am I reading this chart wrong?