Archive through April 23, 2009

[jbliler]

Hey Charlie --- is your shed floor flat

I wish I had that problem, Nice shed floor or a box blade. How bad are those on a manual lift??? I an a bit worried about bending a lift handle with the plow on back

 

[rhickey]

Charlie;
If you really want to lower it;
Back it under your 'delivery truck' so the truck frame is over the front of the blade at the cross brace, wedge with wood.
Place a floor jack under tractor hitch and carefully lift.
The cross brace will bend counter clockwise, lowering the front.
It will not take much to lower it 5/8".
Might be a good idea to do it in small steps as bending it back requires wedging the tractor under the truck !!

 

[fcurrier]

F. McCormack:

Your question from yesterday is noted. I used a 1200 to mow with last summer and was very happy with it. Then the 3 pin clutch driver let go - so I'd say that's something to look out for. Otherwise, I'd say just look it over, compare it to your 149, and if the price is right buy it!

 

[kide]

Charlie:
I think Kraiq may be right - I had problems getting a level cut on the 129 one summer - found the mower deck was out of level after I'd spent a bunch of time leveling it, then remembered I'd pumped the rear tires up during the winter (because somebody told me the chains looked too loose).

 

[kmcconaughey]

BTW, Charlie, I thought you were going to give me all the Cub Cadet 125s you had setting around?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Sigh, I see I'm back to being Kraiq....

 

[tsamons]

Mornin Gents, I sure enjoy reading the forum, it really makes me laugh. I got a very irritating cub problem. My 1250 starts easy and runs good, but will just die like I turned the key off. May run 5 minutes or an hour or even longer before it does it. I have put on new coil, points, condenser, carb kit, cleaned gas tank and made sure its vented. Yesterday I was pushing brush with it and had been using it nearly an hour and a half without shuting it off, running great, pushing a small load full throttle and it died, no missing sputtering, and just quit. I use MMO in the gas. HELP, I dont have much hair to pull out, and head sore from banging. THANKS FOR ANY HELP.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tim, will it start right up again or do you have to wait for it too cool down? Did you replace the ignition switch? Check the wiring and connections over real good. Sounds like it's an intermittent electrical connection.

 

[jclazar]

Charlie- is this a new rear box blade? or has it sat level the last time you used it? hummm.....how about if the bottom mount was just cocked back towards the box blade its self? looks like the metal is too strong to be bent. dare to let the air out untill box levels itself to see where the give is at? i would like to think that the problem has something to do with that lower mount .

 

[mbounds]

Tim Sammons...Did you bother to install a NEW ground cable and bolt it to the chassis away from the fender pan (where IH put it)?? Did you bother to install a new 14 gauge (not there originally) from the ground leg of the voltage regulator to the negative terminal of the battery (it has to be grounded properly, just like the battery circuit...)

If you didn't, the corrosion and resistance in the original 35 year old IH ground circuitry probably does just block (turn off) the ignition to your engine when it gets hot....

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[rbeem]

OK, I don't ask many questions here cause I like to pretend I'm smart. Problem is electricity always kicks my a%%.
On my 108 and both 149's the batterys drain to nearly flat dead after about 2 days.
Is there a common problem I should look at before I start trying to fiqure out the multimeter I bought like 5 years ago and still can't work.

 

[tsamons]

Kraig it starts back up in a couple minutes, but wont run good for awhile. Myron, I have the battery grounded to the frame, but havent grounded guage. The switch may very well be the origional, cant ever remember it being replaced but it feels ok. Ill go try your suggestions after I get my HOUSE HUSBAND CHORES done. Thanks guys, Ill report back afterwhile.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Rick, for starters here's a wiring diagram for your 108 and 149s. I don't have any 1x8/9 series Cubs so I'm not sure if there is a common problem area, I don't recall mention of one here on the forum. A battery draining down over a couple days means you have current leaking somewhere, it has to be a small leak (electrical short with high resistance) or you'd have a dead battery in less time and/or a fire.

My guess is something in the voltage regulator or ignition switch.

For a simple test, try charging the battery up, then disconnecting the connector from the back of the ignition switch and let the tractor set for a few days then connect the ignition switch back up and see if it starts. Also you may want to inspect the positive battery lead and see if the insulation is worn away in any spots, it could be making contact with the chassis someplace but with painted and/or rusted steel it won't necessarily make a "good" connection but it could at some point and then you're back to that possible fire....

(Think welding....)

 

[bbrigham]

Frank...BRAY, I didn't know that one..A Yun Pa, that one I knew...BOMA, well..being this forum is rated PG I figured I better not go there

As with too much air in the tires..I have one 23/8.50 out back that has no pressure in it but by looking at it you would think there is 30# in it so maybe..
I still think maybe the attaching bars or where the square tubing is clamped on is twisted a little. I know when I try to straighten stuff like that I end up with cracks somewhere.

 

[bdatisman]

First Picture... kind of a test run!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Brad, who's the guy in the photo? (I'm quite sure that's not you.) VERY nice Cub and <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT>! More photos and details please!

 

[jclazar]

Rick- LOL! that was the funniest thing i heard this morning....about the multimeter!

 

[fcurrier]

Bradley: (Gary's 1066) Test passed with flying colors. Give yourself an A+ and take the rest of the day off!

 

[bbrigham]

Rick ...If it were me I would give the battery a full charge, unhook the positive cable and put the meter between the post and cable with the key off. If there's a draw it will show on the meter then unhook 1 circuit at a time. When the draw goes away you have a good idea where the problem is. If there is no draw when you hook the meter up there's a good chance the battery is no good. The 1450 I have had a problem with a broken tab on the light switch and would intermittently ground out and drain the battery. I fixed that but still have a battery problem. I actually have 4 or 5 batteries here that will not hold a charge, 3 of which I know are only a couple years old and one is only 1 1/2 years old. I think they just don't hold up well. When I get the extra cash I want to put an Interstate battery in them. I think they are the best quality but are around $80 each.

 

[rpalmer]

Tim Samons, Look and feel closely the wire from your points to the ignition switch. Sounds like an intermittent ground as in insulation wore off and is touching medal.