-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through April 21, 2016
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
I'm getting ready to install a 3pt on the rear of another worker 149. The lift bar that connects the rockshaft to the lift casting doesn't have a zerk on the rear. Would it be worth my time to drill and tap a fitting here? I've seen them on several cubs.
Also, Charlie, you once posted a lift casting that you had installed a grease fitting in each end IIRC. If you could post that pic again I may go that route as well.
.
Also, Charlie, you once posted a lift casting that you had installed a grease fitting in each end IIRC. If you could post that pic again I may go that route as well.
.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Art - ya I get it. What doesn't make awhole lotta sense to me is the progression here. 1st from 3/4" to 1" spindles, then the addition of steel. IH did the 3/4" to 1" and apparently CCC did the addition of the steel. I'd never seen a 3/4" fail unless there was some abuse. I thought 1" was nice when IH did it and benefitted the load carrying capacity (but not sure what for) except a bucket loader and then it was not enough.
Kraig - thanks for the pic. Question - is that from normal wear and tear (use) or abuse?
Wayne - I wouldn't waste my time with a grease fitting. First question is "are you going to remove the cover and grease it annually? If you say yes, then why not just attach it using an R-clip instead of a cotter pin, and you can remove the R-clip each year and grease it up with your finger instead of fooling around trying to get a grease hose onto the grease zerk.
Kraig - thanks for the pic. Question - is that from normal wear and tear (use) or abuse?
Wayne - I wouldn't waste my time with a grease fitting. First question is "are you going to remove the cover and grease it annually? If you say yes, then why not just attach it using an R-clip instead of a cotter pin, and you can remove the R-clip each year and grease it up with your finger instead of fooling around trying to get a grease hose onto the grease zerk.
Thanks Charlie-
I don't know how many times I've had to drive a rusty rod out of one of these castings. I see your set up has Frankenstein bolts but for the rod maybe I should move the zerks another inch or so inward. I went ahead and drilled/tapped the end of the lift rod. It was rather easy to do plus I had everything here. I wonder why IH installed the zerks on some and not on others.
Harry-
Wrong end. Plus, I just like things well greased. I sort of "built" this 149 from the frame up and plan on working the crap out of it. Everything's done except the engine and I started on it today.
.
I don't know how many times I've had to drive a rusty rod out of one of these castings. I see your set up has Frankenstein bolts but for the rod maybe I should move the zerks another inch or so inward. I went ahead and drilled/tapped the end of the lift rod. It was rather easy to do plus I had everything here. I wonder why IH installed the zerks on some and not on others.
Harry-
Wrong end. Plus, I just like things well greased. I sort of "built" this 149 from the frame up and plan on working the crap out of it. Everything's done except the engine and I started on it today.
.
hi guys here is what a wrote about my cub cadet 122 for my first show
thanks thad
Hi everyone I am a 1966 international harvester cub cadet 122 12 hp. I still retain my original power plant which is a cast iron block kohler k301as 12hp electric start. Some other specs are a 3speed transmission with a high and low manual lift 23x8.50x12 rear tires 16x6.50x8 tires I have a weight of 800 pounds. I was born in Louisville Kentucky in February of 66 I was sold as a basic no frill machine I was $905. Most of my history is a blank so we will start where my history is know. I was purchased by Ron in 2001 or so to help with yard work I was used for that for several years until I was having issues staying running so I was parked . After several years of sitting my current owner thad say the benefit of using me so I was pulled out of my parking spot. I have received TLC and have been extremely useful for my current owner on the 4 acres I have plowed dirt, snow mowed the lawn pulled trailers around the yard. I still ware my work clothes and will wear them proudly as I am used weekly for some yard work .I have had several accessories added to me. They include headlights and taillight which was a $31.25 option, wheel weights which was $12.75 option I also have a spring assist. My other options include creeper gear which was $45 option also I have 3 point hitch which was a $14.50 option also high flotation front tires which was $11 option and also a sleeve hitch adapter which was $12. I also have several other attachments brinly tt100 which is a $22.50 attachment also I have a brinly pp100 plow which was $55.00 option. Some other attachments include brinly cc 525 cultivator which was $48 attachment also a 38inch mower deck which was a $139 attachment. all that added up would have been 1,296 dollars in 1966 that would be 9,639.51 in 2016 as you can see they were expensive but they were your precursor to your sub compact today. They were built to except ground engaging attachments if you want a vintage tractor but do not have the space to keep a big farm tractor consider a vintage garden tractor. Thank you all for your time.
Edit/Delete Message
thanks thad
Hi everyone I am a 1966 international harvester cub cadet 122 12 hp. I still retain my original power plant which is a cast iron block kohler k301as 12hp electric start. Some other specs are a 3speed transmission with a high and low manual lift 23x8.50x12 rear tires 16x6.50x8 tires I have a weight of 800 pounds. I was born in Louisville Kentucky in February of 66 I was sold as a basic no frill machine I was $905. Most of my history is a blank so we will start where my history is know. I was purchased by Ron in 2001 or so to help with yard work I was used for that for several years until I was having issues staying running so I was parked . After several years of sitting my current owner thad say the benefit of using me so I was pulled out of my parking spot. I have received TLC and have been extremely useful for my current owner on the 4 acres I have plowed dirt, snow mowed the lawn pulled trailers around the yard. I still ware my work clothes and will wear them proudly as I am used weekly for some yard work .I have had several accessories added to me. They include headlights and taillight which was a $31.25 option, wheel weights which was $12.75 option I also have a spring assist. My other options include creeper gear which was $45 option also I have 3 point hitch which was a $14.50 option also high flotation front tires which was $11 option and also a sleeve hitch adapter which was $12. I also have several other attachments brinly tt100 which is a $22.50 attachment also I have a brinly pp100 plow which was $55.00 option. Some other attachments include brinly cc 525 cultivator which was $48 attachment also a 38inch mower deck which was a $139 attachment. all that added up would have been 1,296 dollars in 1966 that would be 9,639.51 in 2016 as you can see they were expensive but they were your precursor to your sub compact today. They were built to except ground engaging attachments if you want a vintage tractor but do not have the space to keep a big farm tractor consider a vintage garden tractor. Thank you all for your time.
Edit/Delete Message
J
jclazar
Guest
Wayne, That's one thing I've been meaning to do to mine as well, ever since I seen Charlie's! Right now, the pin in mine was cleaned and reinstalled with silver anti seize. So, as I continue to up-grade my 1450, I will add this grease fitting project to what I have in mind already: New Firestone Flotation ag's for the rear in 10.5 x 23 x 12, ( clean and paint the insides of the rims of course ) upgrade to the double flex disk at the pump end, and replace the drive flange on the K321aqs engine, and buy the clamp-on single spool lever upgrade from Charlie! Tall order, but by fall things will be well in motion!
Thad, I like your story, as the tractor is giving the narrative! Nice!
Thad, I like your story, as the tractor is giving the narrative! Nice!
I have been thinking about building a dedicated WF 14HP gear drive w/creeper for tiller use.
Did a couple gardens last week w/the 1450 & #2.
Sure gets tiresome having to constantly work the hydro lever and brake at the same time to maintain a constant speed which is next to impossible so I have found.
What say you guys? I have a 1X? gear drive roller and an extra 14HP AQS and creeper I cold utilize for such a project. Or I cold rig a hookup for the 882 but then I would still be dealing with a hydro. Someone correct me if Im wrong, but It looks to me like an AQS will bolt right into a non QL Wide frame.
Perhaps Harry will forgive me for these blasphemous thoughts!!
Did a couple gardens last week w/the 1450 & #2.
Sure gets tiresome having to constantly work the hydro lever and brake at the same time to maintain a constant speed which is next to impossible so I have found.
What say you guys? I have a 1X? gear drive roller and an extra 14HP AQS and creeper I cold utilize for such a project. Or I cold rig a hookup for the 882 but then I would still be dealing with a hydro. Someone correct me if Im wrong, but It looks to me like an AQS will bolt right into a non QL Wide frame.
Perhaps Harry will forgive me for these blasphemous thoughts!!
David-
My #1 tiller is set up on a 1650 and is dedicated for the time being. I know what you're saying except for the brake part. My foot never touches the brake pedal. I control it all with the hydro control lever and I'm constantly moving it back and forth sort of fighting the tiller as it bites. I've never touched the trunion slot either and this has everything to do with better control.
I also agree a gear drive with a creeper would be ideal. I think that set up gets the popular vote by most members too.
.
My #1 tiller is set up on a 1650 and is dedicated for the time being. I know what you're saying except for the brake part. My foot never touches the brake pedal. I control it all with the hydro control lever and I'm constantly moving it back and forth sort of fighting the tiller as it bites. I've never touched the trunion slot either and this has everything to do with better control.
I also agree a gear drive with a creeper would be ideal. I think that set up gets the popular vote by most members too.
.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Steve - I thought Charlie had figured out that CCC had added the steel to the spindle.
Wayne - are you sure those other bars don't have the grease zerk on the end that connects at the rockshaft? Might want to put one there too. I've seen some of those bars wallow and a little grease might save them.
Thad - that's quite the story. Got any pics you can provide us?
David - I believe the AQS will bolt right in. You'll have to figure out the wiring changes and switch placement for the electric PTO, or convert it to a S/G set up with manual PTO.
Wayne - are you sure those other bars don't have the grease zerk on the end that connects at the rockshaft? Might want to put one there too. I've seen some of those bars wallow and a little grease might save them.
Thad - that's quite the story. Got any pics you can provide us?
David - I believe the AQS will bolt right in. You'll have to figure out the wiring changes and switch placement for the electric PTO, or convert it to a S/G set up with manual PTO.
Jeff-
I will agree 1x9s are far superior to QLs for garden work IMO. The control lever being opposite the lift control makes it easier. I use it the same way as the 1650 with my foot never touching the pedal.
Now, if we could install automatic steering it wouldn't matter what tractor we used.
Harry-
I've actually seen some zerks mounted at the rockshaft pin. It's a tricky place and not a lot of wiggle room.
.
I will agree 1x9s are far superior to QLs for garden work IMO. The control lever being opposite the lift control makes it easier. I use it the same way as the 1650 with my foot never touching the pedal.
Now, if we could install automatic steering it wouldn't matter what tractor we used.
Harry-
I've actually seen some zerks mounted at the rockshaft pin. It's a tricky place and not a lot of wiggle room.
.
jharvey
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 1, 2003
- Messages
- 361
- displayname
- Jerry Harvey "Nines are wild"
David
I just tilled some sod for a new garden, when those tines get a good bite you're going forward regardless of hydro or gear drive. I have ags and wheel weights on my 149 and I can't stop it. In this case hydraulic lift is your best friend to get the tines up quickly. So unless you have that option on your gear drive you may not be happy.
I just tilled some sod for a new garden, when those tines get a good bite you're going forward regardless of hydro or gear drive. I have ags and wheel weights on my 149 and I can't stop it. In this case hydraulic lift is your best friend to get the tines up quickly. So unless you have that option on your gear drive you may not be happy.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,829
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Tilling sod on Saturday with my 2072 and #2 tiller .....hooked into some sod and pulled back the hydro to hold it back ....tiller walked the tractor forward with rear wheels spinning Backwards until it killed the 20hp!!!!!!
Post below is right, not holding one back if it decides to walk!!!!
Post below is right, not holding one back if it decides to walk!!!!
