Archive through April 21, 2011

[digger]

Jeff B.
Unless you can do a scratch and sniff through our monitors, it's kinda hard to tell.

 

[jchamberlin]

Jeff,

For what its worth, I'm not sure its Hytran. Its hard to describe, but Hytran has a peculiar "stink" to it (sorry, "odor"). Once the cover is off, I've found so many "globules" stuck to any surface available that it would be hard to deny it is Hytran.

For others, the previous owner of my 782 tells me he has switched to "regular hydraulic fluid" with no (perceived) ill-effect. Thoughts, anyone?

Again, for Jeff, since I've changed Hytran only one more time than you, I wouldn't count my word as authoritative. But I've read others recommend annual fluid changes because of the water retainage.

 

[tstewart]

Today was an exciting day, rebuilt a broken dump trailer for the cub (more on that later), and was going to mow for the first time this spring. Greased everything up, mounted the 44A and mowed about 1/4 the yard and suddenly a bang and the clutch pedal dropped to the footrest, with the tractor still moving right along. Towed back into the shop and took a look...

Thanks to the fancy parts lookup feature. Looks like the main culprit was my throwout bearing. Part 3 above was kinda stuck on the shaft and partly mangled looking while #10 could move back and fourth freely. Studying the clutch assembly further, looks like I am missing #17, which could had lead to the demise? And #10 looks pretty worn around where 3 would have been touching it maybe thats normal? The disk #6 was pretty worn around all the pins, some were elongated one was chipped off on the outside of the pin hole.

In addition, I had posted previously about the clutch slipping under heavy load and wanting to beef it up anyhow. Seems now would be a good time, along with installing the creeper finally. I believe one of the recommendations was to put an adjustable collar and red spring, I assume from MWSC, any other source? While I have this cub torn down for repairs any other clutch advice? I would like it stronger than stock, but not hardcore puller. It sees a lot of hard use including hauling firewood out of the woods and up steep hills, pulling 2,000# trailers, and could see a 14 or 16hp upgrade. Just want to make sure if I am going to rebuild/mod it I do it right.

 

[digger]

Tristan S.
Leave it to MTD to SCREW UP a perfectly good parts look up and replace it with a true POS!!!!!!!!!!

 

[ralbert]

Has anyone figured out how to look up attachments for an Original...this new MTD parts look-up appears to be best described by Charlie..

looking for bearings for the timed deck spindles. Would appreciale any assistance.

Thanks.....

 

[wshytle]

Tristan-

In the parts look-up you posted the teaser spring and spacer (#4 & #20) are reversed. The spring goes up against the pressure plate and the spacer goes towards the release arm. The spacer has a cupped end in which the teaser spring goes too. Just an FYI.

 

[mgonitzke]

Rick A.-

Type in "Cub Cadet" and that should work.

Charlie-

I agree, this new parts lookup SUCKS! How nice of them to put a giant watermark in every picture so you can't see what's going on.

 

[stanner]

...

A lot of sites are doing that to protect their copyright on pictures so others can't use them in eBay ads... just like some our our cub pics end up on eBay..

 

[ralbert]

Matt G..... thanks, but already tried that....the attachments are not included with the model selection....guess I will have to call...some bean counter decided a new way to save money...it really stinks

 

[lrenaud]

the cub with the bell appears to be pulling a string of "train cars" so I'd guess it's a kids ride at some events so it does need the bell.Now as for the other with the ornament and chrome rear view no cub should suffer that indignity !

 

[dfrisk]

RAY LEO - Actually, MACK makes a really good engine now. The only problem I had with the old R-model Mack I drove that one day years ago was the fact it was only 237 HP and I was used to 300+, plus several more gears to keep the HP working.

JEFF B. - To be honest, that oil looks a little dark for Hy-Tran, but it's close to the right color.

ROBERT K. - re spherical frt deck gauge wheels are available as a KIT for 44 & 50 inch decks but NOTHING else. I put a set on my 38" deck 20-25 yrs ago just using some 1/4" thk steel plate and my AC welder and a picture of a deck with them. The wheels have to be mounted so the wheels are close to the frt edge of the deck and allow both frt wheels of the tractor to turn stop-to-stop. And the farther apart the wheels are the better.

I have all my decks set to mow at about three inches, sometimes like in early spring I will adjust them to 2-1/2" or 2-3/4" and the gauge wheels & rollers are adjusted to be just off the ground at those heights. Most of us do not allow the decks to run on the ground, we adjust mower height with the rockshaft lift cam or adjusting bar like you'd have on a 127. You only want the gauge wheels to touch the high spots on the ground, not carry the full weight of the deck. The tractor should carry the decks.

 

[rleo]

Tristan,
In the immortal words of Jackie Gleason: How sweet it is! I'm glad the #2 is working out for you. I miss the toy, but not the hernia to move the toy. Did you make a caddy for it?

Dennis,
Thanks for the opinion re Mack. My friend has taught me a lot of tricks while during our rebuilds. I've added
engine mechanics to the list of necessary professionals needed to get through life (the minister, the accountant, and the lawyer)...
R

 

[dross]

Dennis, The only thing I'd ad to that is if your running a spring assist. set it so the tractor carries most of the decks wieght. I think Steve B. came up with it, Take emough wieght off the deck the gauge wheels don't have the usual tendency to dig in. Then the gauge wheels can be used more effectively.

 

[dbailey]

Hi I bought a 122 but found out it has a k-241 engine since the 122 and the 102 was made in the same years, I thought an easy fix wound be to just put on new decals 102 instead of the 122. since the 241 has just had a complete overhaul and it suits me just fine. Are there any advantages to have the k-241 vs the k-301

 

[rklein]

Dennis, Thanks. That's what I'll do. I'll set the height with the lift stop bracket bolted to the frame.

 

[digger]

Speaking of Hy-Tran, I got my sales incentive shirt today.

 

[dfrisk]

RAY - I was asked once if I had ever been a CAB DRIVER and a BAR TENDER in a job interview. Guy must have thought those two jobs were important for success too.

DAVE - I've never had a spring assist, although the thought of getting one when I had the QA-36 on the frt of the 72 or the moldboard plow on the back HAS crossed my mind!

DAVID B. - Only advantage of a K241 over a K301 I can think of now with $4/gal gas is you will burn maybe a quart less gas per hour. K301 may have a bit more low end torque than a K241 because of the longer stroke, but the cyl. bore is only 1/8" different, the longer stroke makes most of the increase in displacement. K241 is a good engine.

 

[dbailey]

Dennis, Thanks for your help. The gas usage is a big plus, It has all the power I need for what I use it for.

 

[fsnerd]

front PTO clutch help on a 129.

got the old PTO clutch off.

problem with installation of rebuilt PTO clutch.

Friction disk springs.

Service manual shows the springs being installed like this, pic 1.

which is impossible.

I could install it like this, pic 2.

but i cant keep one in place while moving the PTO clutch to install the other two.

so, how do you install these springs?

 

[jbaker]

Tristian a while back Charlie posted the dimensions of the OEM hole in the clutch lever (part #10) so you can measure the amount of wear on it.

Also the throw out bearing is probaly toast.

If you plan on rebuilding this your self, you really need to build Matt G,s drive spring compressor. I did and its the only way to go