Archive through April 20, 2013

[kmcconaughey]

Matthew, just an FYI, that is not the factory setup on your 123. A previous owner added the rag joint to the engine end. There should be a coupler there like this one bolted to the engine flywheel:

Here's how the drive shaft is supposed to connect to the engine coupler.

You may have to remove the 4 bolts holding the engine in place in order to slide it forward to get enough clearance to remove that setup from the engine end.

 

[mpramas]

Kraig, will I be able to find a replacement for the bad rag joint near the flywheel? If not, how to I install the correct connection? Is my set-up hurting something?

 

[mschutz]

I'm trying to find the pictures of a narrow frame snowthrower mount turned into a weight bracket. Kraig, or anyone can you help me?

 

[mgwin]

Tom,

Black? Whatcha makin?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Matthew, it should be OK with the mods, just wanted to point out that it was not factory. The correct coupler is available but not cheap. It's possible that your driveshaft was shortened so it might be best to stick with the modified setup. I'm curious what the part, that appears to be a "cog" shape of some sort, actually is.

If you can get the hydrostatic end of the driveshaft free inspect it to be sure that there is a stub on it. If it's worn off that could explain the wobble, or a portion of the wobble. Here's a photo of one that has been welded up and reground.

Melody, I couldn't find exactly what you're looking for but I did find the conceptual CAD drawing that Wyatt Compton drew up. (I think it's Wyatt's drawings...)

Here's a wide frame version that Steve Blunier built from a mower deck Mule Drive bracket.

 

[mschutz]

Thanks Kraig, I just needed some ideas. I thought there were some posted by people last year or the year before but I couldn't find them. These will work, thanks

 

[kmcconaughey]

Melody, more ideas HERE

 

[mschutz]

Thank you again Kraig. You da man!

 

[aaytay]

Kraig-
That flange you pointed out is from a Quiteline hydro driveline. (#4 in this pic)

BTW... That thread with the weight brackets is funny. Almost 6 years ago when I made that, and there is STILL no paint on it!

 

[thoffman]

Marty,
A Hot Rod.

 

[mgwin]

Tom,

Looks good so far!

 

[thoffman]

Marty,
Yup, it's been a slow process for me on this one. I have all the goodies that I need, been picking them most of the winter. Now that the weather is breaking (kinda') I can get going on it.

 

[gmorris]

i have a wind breaker on a 123 and im not shure if it is on right , it was sloped twards the back, is it saposed to be like that?

 

[digger]

Grant M.
There's an installation manual in the manuals section.

 

[bjamison]

Spent a goodly amount of time working my 1650. Worked decarbing the head, new head gasket and it's in place. Put some replacement tin on the engine and another air box bracket (looks like fiberglass - certainly a molded part), installed one of Dave Kirk's engine crutches. Also set the snubbers on the engine cradle assembly before I bury it with other stuff. I'm ready now to install the firewall between the fuel tank and engine and re-install the fuel tank. I think next-up is to pull the carb and do a refresh on it, but may just get everything together and see if it will fire as is. Carb seems easy to get at - so not like I have to unbolt/uncover anything to get to it.

Once I hit a stopping point with the 1650, I turned my attention to the 126. I needed to put a screen on the flywheel as the engine that a I pulled from the 122 didn't have one. The drive cup from the 122's engine is damaged - like someone dropped the engine on it or hit it on something. Not sure it can be salvaged. So I went to the drive cup/screen on my 126's original engine and it is cracked where the pin goes into it - that also goes to the block. I've got a couple of other QL motors that I think I'll pull a drive cup/screen - if it they will work.

Grass is growing like crazy around here and the mass of fertilizer I put on is kicking-in giving it an additional boost. The 109 is away from the house on camp duty, so sooner I can get one or both of the 126 or 1650 going, the better. My Boys did a good job with the 109 and hydro as they were very easy to use. I think the 126 with clutch and brake on the same pedal will be easy for them to use too. In the mean time, my fine fleet of other color tractors are carrying the load...

 

[rmcshane]

Had a good Cub day today with Marlin. He spotted a garden tractor trailer sitting in someone's grove in around town. Today we had enough free time to go ask the nice lady who owned it a few questions about it. She had no idea what it was and was willing to give it away. Soo, naturally Marlin and I loaded it up...we knew it was an IH #2 cart all along. Both tires hold air, pretty solid sides...just needs a spring for the dump latch mechanism! Best part...it was the greatest deal two people can make!

 

[bbranstetter]

Hey, couple of questions on the KT motor in the wifes 782. Went plowing today at a local get together and as the wife finished up a round and stopped to talk to me for a minute I noticed oil smoke started rolling out of the front

. We shut it down right away, didn't run for more than 30 to 40 seconds. Looked under the hood and the oil was coming from the back of the motor and was spraying up through the cooling fins clear up to the spark plug holes, check the dip stick and it was down to the fill line. I know we caught it in time when we shut it off. We towed it back to the trailer and filled the crank case back up and fired it up. No knocks or rattles and it walked right up on the trailer still sounding smooth.

My question is if you folks have run into this before? I looks like the rear seal let go and the oil got sprayed by the fly wheel. I also thought about putting a pressure gauge on the oil side to see if there is too much oil pressure, possibly blowing the seal out. Or maybe the case halfs need to be resealed? Ill try and get some pictures tomorrow when it gets light again. The wife and kids are real bummed that it went down so I'm hoping its not broke real bad.

Either way I'm going to get into this so I'll try and keep you guys updated. I guess the worst thing that could happen is we find a repower for it but this one sure sounds good for its age.

Any input or advice would be appreciated

 

[sblunier]

Brian,

Rear main seal.......I've got one leaking on my loader tractor.....not looking forward to fixing it, you have to take it out and down far enough to get the flywheel off.

Could also be the oil pressure sending unit if you have a KT-II, the diaphragm in the pressure unit lets go and sprays oil.....look on the right front side of the right jug, above the oil filter plate, below the governor. Easy fix, in tractor, with some careful wrench work.

 

[bbranstetter]

Thanks Steve,

Ya, Tammie's has a Series II motor but no pressure sending unit that I know of, although I will double check to make sure. After some closer looking, all the oil came from the back and was sprayed forward. The front of the motor was dry, which is what made me think rear main or some thing.

This thing just started pumping out oil all at once so I'm hoping for a seal failure and not a cracked block. Other than a seal failure in the rear or the case half's, I'm not sure what would cut loose so fast.

Hope to start after it this week and find out.

 

[bjames]

Flywheel side is the front