Archive through April 19, 2010

[dfrisk]

DONALD - That looks about like the tach I got a couple yrs ago. Takes longer to clean the surface to put the small piece of reflective tape on than to check the speed.

Something I learned the hard way....REMOVE the batteries if you leave it stored for any length of time. Maybe it was just the cheap imported batteries that came with it. Think it takes three AA batteries.

 

[mgwin]

Just went outside to take some family photos:

After the pics I went to put the tractors up and my 70 cut off and gas started pouring out of the breather!

I know I adjusted the float when I rebuilt it. Took off the bowl and looked at the float. It was adjusted ok. Took the float out to make sure no trash was in the needle hole. Then I made a wise decision, I shook the float. Slosh, slosh, slosh. That dadburn thang has a crack in it sommers!

That's the only thing I didn't replace on the carb. Guess I will now.

 

[bsell]

Marty,
Very nice family!! What brand of front tires are on your 70 and the 128?

 

[mgwin]

Brian,
Thanks,
The front tires are Deestone brand. The size is 4.00-8. The total cost was just under $60 for two. I still have the original tires that came off these, but I like the tractor style better.
P.S. These are tube type tires.

 

[jbliler]

Thanks Ken! Got any JB weld to stick the new collars on the frame with

 

[rmcshane]

Thanks Ken. Looks like I need some different brackets...

 

[elamott]

Ignition Experts:
I have a question for the ignition people. I have seen post about testing the coil with an ohm meter. According to the ohm meter test my coil should be good. I have no spark on my 129 and after testing everything else I swapped coils and now with a different coil, I have spark. Is this possible?
Earl LaMott

 

[tdaugherty]

Hey Fellas,
I have a question concerning my 124's charging system again. The regulator is working ok. When i first start the tractor and at idle, the amp gauge on the dash shows little charge. But as i speed up, the gauges moves towards C, but is sparatic(moves back and forth). I figure this is just the generator brushes in need of replacement, am i correct? Thanks.

 

[kweaver]

Ryan - That was Kraig not me

Marty - Why the 4 foot exhaust ?

Don - Watch it ...

Jerry - Watch it !

Kraig -

Ran out of MIG wire

 

[kide]

Earl:
Apparently it will....

I'd ask first what type of VOM you used to check it with, since some of those resistance readings are going to be pretty low...I prefer a fairly good DVOM with a low scale of 19.99 Ohms or better to read the + and - to case ground...

OT - made it home! worst roads (besides B'ham AL) were in out back yard - I 96 and I-69 going around the west and north side of Lansing.. . !29 started up - who the he.. put a snowthrower on it!!!!<font size="-2">( Oh that was me - three months ago)</font>

 

[lkillian]

Hey all,

New to the site, very nice so far as I've read so far.

But I have a 123 hydrostatic and I have a slight issue.
My reverse isn't working. Forward does, but not reverse.
but I've checked the the connections to see if it was the issue, the lever is connected and working.

So I'm at a loss. Does anyone have any advice. Pm me or reply.

Thanks
Luke

 

[rmcshane]

Whoops!! Sorry Ken!

Thank you Kraig!

You're the hero

 

[wmiller]

Tim, DC generator systems have little or no output at idle (one of the reasons they went to alternators),so that is normal. The regulator uses the "vibrating points" method for its limiter portion,gauges sometimes detect that. The dash gauge is not of test instrument quality,always use a test meter for accurate readings. The starter/gen is only rated at 15 amps max output,the engine rpm needs to be half throttle or more to get that. Is your dash gauge for example, plus or minus 30 or say plus or minus 60? The 30 gauge will much more easily detect low amperages in the 15 amp range.If the battery is saying "up" and the gauge tends to read up the scale,you probably don't have a problem. Remove the rear end frame of the starter/gen to inspect/replace the brushes if needed. Because the unit is a starter/gen use the copper looking brushes instead of the black carbon brushes for longer life,ck the bearings while you are in there. Consult a service manual and/or ask here about specific test or adjustment procedures.

 

[kweaver]

Since this has been coming up lately.

 

[fcurrier]

Luke: Welcome - to you and your 123. If you've used your hydro release lever lately, I'll bet the little "button" on the reverse relief valve is stuck down. You can see the valves by taking the plate behind/under the seat off.

 

[jott]

Kraig or someone else, can you please post the wiring diagram for a cub cadet 125? I am really really confused now. I got the engine running by short cutting the genertor with a wire from the battery. It charges full bore just above idle wich i guess is good but i cant start it with the key for some reason. If i turn the key on the charge indicator moves and all of the connections going to the key switch are live but somewhere between the switch and the generator the wiring must be exposed. Thats all i can see for a possibilty unless the conection to the saftey startng switch is loose or not even connected...I didnt think of that... And another question... The hydro creeps ahead when the foot pedal is pushed down. The hydro lever is between Neutral and Reverse but closer to neutral to keep it sitting still. where is the adjustment for this? I havnt had a hydro for a while so im kinda lost. Other than that the hydro pump seems strong and doesnt whine at all even when i idled the engine. Thanks in advance.

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[jott]

ok thanks Kraig. Its either ot to be the safety switch or some wiring somewhere. I tested the post where the two wires go on the generator when it was running and as i stated it charges excelent so the little tester light came on. any other thoughts?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Josh, perhaps you have a bad ignition switch.

If you have a volt/ohm meter you can check the switch. Be sure to disconnect the switch from the wiring before you check it. You don't want to have any voltage in the system when you use the ohm setting on the meter. Measure the resistance between the various contacts with the switch in the off, on and start positions. Here's how the contacts should have continuity when in the various positions.