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Archive through April 16, 2014

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mhomrighausen

Well-known member
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Sep 20, 2001
Messages
3,133
displayname
Marlin Homrighausen
Welcome to all the new members.
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Brian E. Great advice from the guys here. Follow it. You could also have a bad head gasket. Just follow and do the simplest of things first. Also, DON'T be afraid to replace the points pushrod. That little rod could cause a lot of problems once it is worn out.

Off to work. Everyone have a wonderful day.
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Thanks for the link to the FAQ.

I think these autolite 216's should fit the bill?

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/autolite-al216-spark-plug-pack-of-4

The specs listed on the plug faq match "14mm, 7/16 reach, 13/16 hex"

I probably have some original H10C or even J8's up at camp (we have a Willys Jeep there too) but I won't be going up there for a while so grabbing some fresh plugs locally makes the most sense.
 
Hey Charlie, just wondering how the replacement mufflers are coming along? Did you get all the measurements?
 
John W,
welcome!
the double ragjoint is neat and easy to do- converted my 149.
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picked up the driveshaft and other parts from a local tractor boneyard. Our sponsors above will have these parts, too.
 
BRIAN E. - re spark plugs.... the J8 is the correct plug for the 7 HP Kohler K161 used in the original '61/'63 CC's, 70, 71, 72, 73, etc. also fits the replacement K181 Kohlers & models 86 & 800 CC's.

The J8 is NOT inter-changable with the H10/H10C used in the 10, 12, & 14 HP CC's.
 
FWIW, the Autolite216 works good for the 10-12. Hp engines if one wants a champion alternate...
 
On the drive shaft modification. What does the modification look like on the engine? Or do the bolts fit in original holes that held the coupler?
 
Carson,
you need the adapter that bolts to the engine hub that the old D/S pin cup used to bolt to.

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Brian E. one things that I haven't seen motioned is the ignition coil, weak spark would cause hard start cold and may fail when used. One of the things I like about the Kohler engines is the automotive type of ignition system, this makes them pretty easy to trouble shoot.
 
Doug - the infamous coil. I believe I did mention it near the end of my dissertation for Brian E. I think it would be close to the bottom of possible problems since I didn't think a bad coil would cause performance problems as Brian described. If I understood correct it was hard starting, run for awhile, then stall out and backfire. Would a bad coil really do this?
 
Yer right kraig I've had a bad condenser bring my Original to a dead stop , only after heating up to a certain temperature.
 
Are there voltage readings I could take and provide here to help diagnose coil or condenser issues?
 
Craig I'm with you, the first thing I would do is replace the condenser check the points and replace or adjust as needed. Harry - yes, a few months ago I had dodge truck in the shop - hard start - fall on its face on acceleration - stall, tested the coil and it would only produce about 5ooo volts, new coil and it ran like champ - wall as good as dodge could run.
 
While I am deciding what to do, I am putting a spring assist on the 147 while it is split. It looks like the hydro linkage will be very close to rubbing it. Will a spring assist work on a 147? Is there a concern with it rubbing the linkage? Below is a picture of my 147 from last year.
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Steve:

Thanks for the pictures and explanation. Going to put this in my possible fix file.
 
I want to do that driveshaft conversion on my 149 and 109. Scott,can you share what model tractor the shaft came from,and did you have to modify shaft length and drill new pin hole,or was everything a bolt in?
 

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