Archive through April 15, 2015

[hydroharry]

Nic - you're up late. A crack in the pan or wear area going all the way thru is a good guess but 2nd on my list. I've seen some really terrible ISO-mounts and the pan can drop and start banging on the cross member on the frame rail as well as the ISO bars - but on a 16hp that engine is gonna be really shaking, banging things and vibrating so much I just don't think anyone would be using the tractor, but I suppose I could be wrong.

 

[eford]

I'll throw my $0.02 in on the 1650. I have used jb weld in the past on any small engine. Have had both good and bad experiences. My 1200's pan is pretty thin in an area and I'm hoping it doesn't crack or break. Just replaced the ISO mounts with better ones last Oct. Not new...
I used it on a push mower that is still working after 2 years. I've also had it be completely worthless right away. As long as it's prepped very well should be fine. I know aluminum welders with equipment if mine goes, I suggest the same if at all possible.

John B. OH I'm kicking myself now! I wanted to go there badly but could not because of work. NICE haul!

 

[mhomrighausen]

Harry B. Both of our 1650s had terrible isomounts and you're right the engine banged around in both. Yet both owners still used the tractors. My ex brother-in-law's 1650 was bought new in 1979 or spring of 1980. One day many years ago he stated at a family get together the tractor was leaking oil from the engine. When they finally discovered the leak's origin by that time the shaking engine had actually let the isomounts wear a big hole through the oil pan. So they replaced the oil pan and new isomounts and the rails. It ran for a lot more yeas. When I brought it home for $250.00 in the fall of 2008, Donnie went to start it up and I knew immediately... no isomounts left. When I pulled the engine the poor little critter was an oily mess everywhere. I replaced the OEM isomounts with a set of Charlie's aftermarket sets. I also put in another engine from another 1650 because I knew the engine was in dire need of an overhaul. When I took the head off I was amazed the original piston was still there and how big the gap between the piston and block wall is. Well over .020 gap. The parts 1650 isomounts weren't much better. That's when I came up with the idea of using the neoprene gasket material on the front grill mount area. Those 16 hp Kohlers put out the power only they do definitely vibrate. I hope to one day have enough money to overhaul Fancy's 1650 engine and re-install it. Then... oh man, I'll have three 1650s.

Earl F. They now have aluminum rods that use a LP or Mapp gas torch. Kind of pricey so I havne't tried any yet only hope to this summer.

Off to work... Everyone BE SAFE and have a wonderful day.

 

[ecaye]

Thanks everyone for all your responses. The 1650 has been running all winter. All the oil was on the ground, I'm not one who likes a mess. It looked like Valvoline oil spill from back in the day. I pulled the dipstick and there was no oil. I'm trying to answer everyone's questions so forgive me if I'm all over. I will check it out and let you guys know.

 

[mconway]

thanx for the comments...now the fun starts, strip it down and do a thorough clean and blast, get everything ready for paint and by then it might be dry enough to use it after rakin' and rollin'...i'll thro some finished pics up in a bit...

 

[hydroharry]

Ed C - dang it, seems like I lost another one since there ain't no oil on the dip stick. Must be the drain plug or more likely like others were saying about a crack in the pan.

Marlin - it's like that 16hp in the 1650 should get something more than the same standard ISO-mounts used on the 8hp thru 14hp (and for that matter the 14hp should probably get something in addition as well). Hey, you know the longer you wait on Fancy's engine the more it's gonna cost ya.

Mike C - one other thing on your deck before you get it to far dis-assembled and stripped. Those round stock runners are prone to breaking thru the mount bolt holes, especially that version you have for the left side block-out plate. Make sure you get a good look at those holes (I think they are square hole cut-outs). I seem to recall having converted the left side on some of my decks and used an earlier version runner that wrapped around the deck skin.

 

[snicklas]

The 14's and 16's really will move around on you. When I bought my 1450, I noticed the gap between the air cleaner and the side panel seemed small. This was the first quietline I'd had any experience with. I took it to Dads garage, and we pulled the engine out. There was only 1 or 2 bolts left holding the pan to the rails, and they were on the right side. The ISO's were shot, and the left rail had worn an angle on the left outside of the pan that was at least a quarter inch shorter than the rest of the pan. We replaced the mounts, did the cradle mod and replaced the pan with a cast iron pan from an earlier 14...... no problems in the last 8 years from it. My 1650 had the ISO's replaced before I bought it, and it is a low hour unit.... but I plan on pulling the engine and doing the cradle mod in the near future before it has an issue.

 

[nbextermueller]

Cradle mod is a must for those QL models. The best way to avoid ISO mount problems is to get rid of them and solid mount the engine.
Problem solved...

 

[jbaker]

on Charlies new 100, it is running so I guess they wanted to how the lights work, bungee cord is the redneck replacement spring for the brake.

I really like the weights themselves

Earl those where in your backyard, I too had to work.

John what did you get from my area yesterday?

 

[mhomrighausen]

Harry B. I agree on the costs going up with waiting. I've a shop that the gentleman said that he won't mind one bit if I can get the parts cheaper than he can. He's THE BEST in the area. Doesn't skimp on quality and craftsmanship. Hopefully this time next year, I'll have the orignal engine back in Fancy's 1650. I found another electric pto clutch for the engine. His pto clutch coil was worn out and so was the parts 1650's. All goes well I'll have the mower deck on his tractor this year.

 

[mconway]

yer right harry, one hole is oversize and the bolt pulled out but i'll take car of that. looks like i'll be placing an order to ccs shortly. on the id number, is that only a part number or can any body tell me what year this might be so i can get the right bearings or are they all the same?

 

[mgonitzke]

Mike C.-

The cheapest way to get the bearings is to remove them and take them to a bearing supply place and get them to match up new ones. CC puts a big markup on them. Can't remember for certain, but I think they are the same as the front wheel bearings from many GM full-size cars from the late '60s and early '70s.

 

[jpatchett]

Mike C.

The bearing is used on many other GTs, mowers, golf carts, etc


CUB CADET 473430 R91 REF. NO.: LM11949 (bearing), LM11910 (race) ID: 0.751" OD: 1.779" Height: 0.653" Tapered roller bearing and race set

 

[jmaas]

Well I am in pretty deep on my new 149, love the look and power, but after some use it's going to need some parts and work. So I found this 682 from a really nice guy that just needs a little cleanup and maintenance to be put back in service while I work on the 149. John near KC

 

[sblunier]

.....the BEST fix for an iso mount is a 782!!!!!

 

[rwalker]

Ed, Caye
Last summer I went to use my 1450 and also found a puddle under the engine. I checked the usual items and finally had to pull the engine out. What I found was the oil pan had come loose. Before replacing the gasket I thoroughly cleaned the mounting holes with carb cleaner and blew them out. When I installed the new gasket and oil pan I used blue Loctite on the bolts.
So far things are holding good. I hope yours is not as bad a mine was.
Rich W.

 

[jamarks]

This may seem like a redundant question, but now just as I'm about to start putting paint on the original, in the spray booth that I've been unable to send you all PIX of,, I find that nobody in the area has a clue as to the proper paint formulas for mixing the required PPG 483 Yellow or the Required 901 Paint. I thought that this was going to be the least of my problems with this "O" and Deck, but now I'm Frustrated. Should I just use straight Enamel , when I thought that the newer hardened paints would be best!
Jack

 

[hydroharry]

Jack M - I think I'd keep looking for some place that knows. I assume you got the paint codes chart from FAQ No.5 which lists other brands as well.

Steve B - Mr. Plow - come on now. And the best fix for a 782 is a replacement engine. I think I'll just keep advising the known fixes for the Quiet Line series. Once the cradle mod is done and the ISO-mounts are done, and the pump trunion is repaired, it should be good again for at least 10 years maybe even 20.

Mike C - I've got a paper copy of the Attachments Parts Book and the ID number doesn't help at all. It only goes by "years of production" and tractor serial number, and I even question that info. In fact, according to my parts book your deck (with the left runner that doesn't go all the way around the deck) should have the later style spindles that used a cup and flange and pump style bearing BUT I think your deck is correct the way you have it, and I think those bearings are all the same for that style.

Marlin H - the parts for the 16hp keep getting harder to find to. (I think the pullers are using them up left and right, and there won't be none left for us).

 

[mhomrighausen]

Harry B. YIKES!!! Forgot about those guys. Now I at least better find out what I need for a connecting rod size and all the other parts.

Steve B. You're right about having a782 to "fox" the isomounts problem. But, I still love the 1650s. AND the 125.

See everyone this afternoon. Have a great day!!

 

[nbextermueller]

Jack, your going to have ask the paint shop where you bought the paint. Every brand of paint has different requirements. But typically your ok using 4:1:1. Meaning 4 parts paint, 1 part reducer, 1 part hardener. The "speed" of the reducer (slow, medium, fast) is determined by the temperature of the room your painting in and how much working time you need. And ALL of your products should be of the same brand so nothing funky happens and you get the color you were expecting.


Harry, us pullers are only on the look out for cranks and blocks. Everything else can be purchased in the aftermarket. (So can cranks and blocks, but most clubs won't allow those)