Archive through April 15, 2012

[tstewart]

Well what got me saying that was they said I should screw the driver pins in deeper so they dont stick out as far, even though I said I had them flush as far as the threads go.

But that brings up another point, they were thinking my problem was due to it being a QL tractor which they say is very rare, and also since I added a creeper where most remove it, leaving me with a very short shaft. They said that changes the angle. But the shaft is only shortened on the far end, the clutch & throwout dimensions should be unchanged by how long the other end is, right? And is there any difference in the clutch design, specifically the throwout & bracket between a QL and a wide frame? Maybe there is, IDK, the 1000 is the only handshaker cub I got.

I really hate modding the factory stuff... which is one reason I got the whole complete 'drop in' assembly. But looks like in this case no way around it, unless I make an entire bracket from scratch wich may be over my fabricating abilites. Any suggestions on the throwout bracket? Should I try to relocate the whole braket forward somehow, or weld on more material infront of it and drill a new hole for the pivot in the new material?

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Sunday, April 15, 2012 - 05:22 pm:

TRISTAN - You have to have some clearance between the T/O bearing and the clutch lever. The T/O bearing is a sealed ungreasable bearing that will only run so long. The clearance between the bearing & clutch lever is noted in the operator's manual, but the free pedal distance in the op's manual does the same thing.

Go ahead and replace the lever mounting bracket or whatever you have to do to get the clearance required. The T/O bearing I bought last summer was $50 so you don't want to replace them very often.

I'm sure MWSC knows how their clutches work, they may just not know how YOUR CC works.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[jchamberlin]

Tristan:
I'm having problems visualizing your situation. Pictures would help.

 

[bjamison]

Harry & Ken - I see the holes on the frame you are talking about. That's good news. I wasn't looking forward to putting the engine back in the way I took it out!

 

[kfreeman]

Jeremiah,

Tristan did post a link to a picture on Sunday, April 15, 2012 - 10:56 am.

It is in the April 13th Archive.

Why does the archive say through the 13th but really start on the 13th?

 

[dfrisk]

TRISTAN - I'm not familiar with the Q/L GD's, but I think there was a post here a few weeks ago that there are some differences between a Q/L GD & a normal NF & WF GD, the T/O lever is different, and there's a sleeve or cover over the teaser spring, but all the geometry should be about the same.

The center line of the crankshaft of the engine, the drive shaft, the input to the creeper should ALL be the same. The flex-mounted engine can move a bit, so some flexibility in the drive plate was designed into the Q/L's.

It almost sounds like your drive shaft might be just a bit too long, requiring your T/O lever to angle forward a bit. The whole relationship of the clutch to the engine, the T/O lever to the clutch, etc is fixed by the location of the clutch discs, pinned to the driveshaft. The stack-up of the teaser spring, T/O bearing, T/O lever has some effect on the lever angle, but the biggest thing is the total length of the driveshaft, if it's too long that throws everything FORWARD which sounds like what's happening. Isn't it the Q/L hydro's that use a ball bearing between the end of the driveshaft inserted into the drive coupling on the engine. Does the Q/L GD's use this ball too? I checked the parts look-up and it doesn't show one but spacing the whole driveshaft back about 1/4 inch would fix your situation. Let the T/O lever miss the drive pins.

Remember MWSC specializes in PULLING parts. Nobody I've ever seen runs a creeper on a pulling tractor. Doesn't suprise me they aren't real familiar with a GD Q/L w/creeper.

 

[ecardinal]

Ok, new guy to the cub cadet forum here so a little unfamiliar with the site and cubs. This site seems great so far by the way! Been a big JD garden tractor guy with the WFM forum the last almost 10 years. I had a 1250 CUB 20 years ago which I always liked (and sorry I sold) and wanted another CUB ever since. Picked up a CUB 108 a few weeks back with wiring issues and now trying to get the voltage regulator wired properly. The wiring diagrams I have seen so far are a little confusing.
Any help and guidance appreciated! Thanks....Ed @ Jersey shore...

 

[dfrisk]

ED - Welcome to IHCC.COM. There's actually a pretty good wiring diagram in the CC operator's manuals, shows how the wires actually run through the tractor, plus names all the wires and gives a code for the wire color. Best source for those is HERE in the manual section of the home page, or if you like I recommend Binder Books for good quality hard copy reprints.

There's also a list of wire diagrams on the home page too, here's a link, It may be what you've already found, https://www.ihcubcadet.com/diagrams/Electrical%20Schematics.pdf

Voltage regulators seem to be one of the harder things to replace on CC's. There's 3 & 4 terminal versions, and not all the terminals are identified the same way which leads to incorrect installation. They were just discussed here about two weeks ago IRRC, and if you do a search on voltage regulators you should find some informative posts. Nice thing about CC's in the wire harness' are really simple, only about four wires run the length of the tractor. That's unless you've made changes like I have to a couple of my tractors. My #72 has an AM/FM/Cassette deck added, plus many added lights, two head lights, four tail lights, an instrument light for the amp gauge, plus a remote switch and a white rear work light. My 982 has the factory lights, plus an added circuit for low center mounted work lights to illuminate the mower deck plus a rear work light. I've been known to mow as late as 2 AM so I have to have lights that work!

Your new 108 should have the V/R mounted in the back under the seat by the battery, great location for them compared to the original location on the top of the grill over the engine where they were troubled by heat & vibration. I used to wear out the contacts in a new IH/Delco V/R about every two years on my #72 until I relocated it back under the seat inside the frame similar to where my old #129 had it located. That was over 16 yrs ago and I haven't had ANY problems since. Once you get the problem sorted out you should be set for many years.

If you have any more questions just ask. Many of us here have decades of experience keeping these great old tractors running. I've had my #72 since 1981, 31 years, I'm still trying to wear it out. I've rebuilt two engines an installed in it, a K241 that ran almost 1400 hours and 15 yrs and a new rebuilt "KILLER K321" I installed 6-7 yrs & 160+ hrs ago. My other tractor I have here now is a model #70 DAD bought brand new in 1965. We wore the original K161 out in three years, had it rebuilt and wore it out in another 3 yrs, rebuilt it ourselves and wore it out in 3 more years, replaced the K161 with a new complete K181, wore it out in 4-5 years and Dad had it rebuilt. Not sure where the engine in it now came from, or even if it's a K161 or 181, but it's tired, but the tractor is still sound. The clutch needs rebuilt when I drop the rebuilt K241 in it but the rearend is ready for another 47 years of use! My 982 is my NEW tractor, I've had it 11-12 yrs, been pretty trouble-free except for the ONAN B48G engine.

Anyhow, Glad to have you here!

 

[ecardinal]

Thanks Dennis, glad to be here. I did check out that diagram for the 108 but one of the problems is that my V-R is a labeled a little different. Mine is F, BAT, L, on each of the side terminals and underneath is an isolated terminal marked 12v n/p? I am assuming F = field, which should only run to "F" on the generator. Not sure where others go.
To make matters more complicated the key switch has been eliminated and instead is a toggle switch and push button for the starter. And if V-R is bad can I use a spare I have from my old JD 110 RF (K181). It too is a little different. It has 3 side terminals "F ", "BAT ", "L ", (same as other) but has a terminal on other side labeled "GEN". So what is "L" and where does "BAT" go in my case? Very confused .......Ed.

 

[dtanner]

Ed Cardinal

The L is for lights . I think the back plug is grd.

 

[kmcconaughey]